Successful Paddle Shifters install on 2022 Maverick XL Ecoboost !!!

[Dad]

Awesome work. Great project.
Someone always needs to rain on a parade.

Sorry, but I'm trying to understand your post about the "parade". I get it's an idiom for something, but it escapes me what that something is. I'd appreciate it if you could clarify for me.

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[Dad]

You guys would have hated the hybrid CVT transmission. It's so smooth and seamless. You don't feel any "gears" shifting ever at all. It just goes. My first car was a stick shift but man I love this. Stick shifts are a lot of work for no reason at all. If you wanted a hot rod, why did you buy a 2.0 Maverick?
Also, there are easier ways to void your warranty or destroy the resale value.

I agree. Stick shift in a sports car? Absolutely. Sports car = fun! By the way, did you know when you put the hybrid in Sport Mode, you'll hear virtual gear shifting and engine revs. Not quite as much fun as actual sport car shifting/engine reving, but kind of cool.

 

[bretticus4]

i'm both extremely impressed with and extremely jealous of OP for this mod. i'm curious about your experience using the "L" mode, though. one of my frustrations with the mav is the inability to engine brake down hills at a speed like 30mph or 45mph. if i push the L button at that speed, it feels like it downshifts several gears rather than just one, and over-revs, so i deselect out of fear. am i just not giving it enough time to find the right "L" gear?

(to the other posters who are questioning manual transmissions, this is why a manual trans is great: you get to select exactly what gear you want in every situation. if the mav had been offered in a manual, i'd have paid more for it).

 

[Calmate']

i'm both extremely impressed with and extremely jealous of OP for this mod. i'm curious about your experience using the "L" mode, though. one of my frustrations with the mav is the inability to engine brake down hills at a speed like 30mph or 45mph. if i push the L button at that speed, it feels like it downshifts several gears rather than just one, and over-revs, so i deselect out of fear. am i just not giving it enough time to find the right "L" gear?

(to the other posters who are questioning manual transmissions, this is why a manual trans is great: you get to select exactly what gear you want in every situation. if the mav had been offered in a manual, i'd have paid more for it).

I agree. Stick shift in a sports car? Absolutely. Sports car = fun! By the way, did you know when you put the hybrid in Sport Mode, you'll hear virtual gear shifting and engine revs. Not quite as much fun as actual sport car shifting/engine reving, but kind of cool.

Hello Bretticus4 your description of the Maverick shift characteristics for “L” are on point - I descend a mountain pass everyday - I’m accustomed to using Low for engine braking - the computer would select what gear to downshift to - the engine would rev to 5000 rpm sometimes - I guess that’s ok by Fords standards but not by mine - the paddle shifters is a game changer for shift control - just follow VTec87pr1 instructions when your ready - it’s worth it !

 

[Automan21]

if the mav had been offered in a manual, i'd have paid more for it).

Definitely!!

 

[Dad]

Hello Bretticus4 your description of the Maverick shift characteristics for “L” are on point - I descend a mountain pass everyday - I’m accustomed to using Low for engine braking - the computer would select what gear to downshift to - the engine would rev to 5000 rpm sometimes - I guess that’s ok by Fords standards but not by mine - the paddle shifters is a game changer for shift control - just follow VTec87pr1 instructions when your ready - it’s worth it !

Totally agree!

 

[Robert C]

I just got my Maverick a week ago. Now I understand what the "L" button is you guys are talking about.
Oh, my god, you guys are using your AUTOMATIC transmission to slow down!
I don't even do that in my older standard shift vehicle.
Brake pads are so much cheaper than transmissions.
And the hybrid maverick's CVT?
You asking for trouble.

 

[nicobonis]

Thanks to VTec87pr1 and this awesome Maverick truck club I was able to gather all the parts needed, and the very detailed instructions from VTec87pr1 - I decided just to share my experience, but I’m not writing this up as a step-by-step do it yourself please find VTec87pr1 post on how to do it - He deserves all the credit for diving into the world of new vehicle electronics modifications. I read his post on modifying Maverick ecoboosts to SST sport paddle shift system. I started by searching high and low for a 2021 Ford bronco sport steering wheel with paddle shifters (ebay -$120) I believe it’s only 2021 and I think only equipped on the Badlands model - I was able to source the pigtail wire connectors and steering control module and switches at a good price for my friend who works for a dealer . The procedure is straightforward as long as you take your time pay attention to all details and double check yourself along the way before reassembly - I dusted off a seven-year-old windows laptop and bought the $38 Forscan OBD two connector cable from Amazon. I down loaded the software paid $12 for the extended license in order to configure any module that I want. I think this would be a skill level 4 on a scale from 1 to 5 . if you have installed and wired/soldered in a good car stereo and speakers, you should be able to do this also.. I didn’t have any experience with Forscan but I watched a few YouTube videos and that was enough for me to understand and grab the concept- (I’m 56 so new to programming) I was able to easily configure the up and down paddle shifters and again thanks to VTec87pr1 I was also able to configure the gear indicator on the dash it’s so freaking cool.!!!

I’ve really enjoyed driving my Maverick since new, but always hated having to hit the L button for the computer to downshift the truck into whatever gear it wanted to when descending mountains, or steep hills

- Man let me tell you what an absolute improvement in the drive ability of this little truck, and so much fun! It gave this little truck a whole new spirit ! It’s a true pleasure to drive now - I haven’t programmed lane departure, warning, and speed recognition
yet but I have already found what modules I need to tweak. I know there has been talk about different shifters with the M for manual mode, but I haven’t found a need for that. The truck drives and shifts completely normal until you tap the paddle shifters and then the gear indicator lights up on the dash and you can shift up or down as long as you don’t over rev the computer will let you keep it in that gear. If you let off the gas or stop using the paddle shifters the computer takes back over the indicator turns off and the truck drives like normal. It is a super sweet set up. i’ll post some random pictures. i’ll post some random pictures of the install and wiring in hopes that that helps some of you guys also. I’ll try a video later ….

VTec87pr1 you are the man - thank you
Sincerely
“Calmate”


2022 XL Area 51 Bronco sport 18”wheels
Panda Tuner with S&B intake -

First of all, Congratulation, this is an awesome work!

on the other hand, I´m interested in showing the current gear. Could you detail how did you activate the gear indicator function?, If it works in automatic will be awesome, I would love to see wich gear I´m using. Thanks!!!

and once again, great job!

 

[BradMav]

Big thanks to @Vtec87pr1 for the original writeup, and big thanks to @Calmate' for providing additional info/pictures!

I've ordered a OEM paddle shift wheel from @Fast Mavericks and will be attempting this install soon.

For those of you that are very comfortable with automotive wiring, can you elaborate on the materials/tools here?

1. How to join the wires. What are you using? Crimped Open Barrel Terminals? No solder?
2. Which crimpers (I hear a good set of crimpers can make all of the difference?)
3. Heat shrink - what are you using? Adhesive lined heat shrink? In @Calmate' pictures I see "ES-1", which I gather is dual wall adhesive lined tubing. Assuming this is ideal, you using a heat gun to shrink it?
4. Wire... What type of wire/wire gage? I think @Fast Mavericks is offering only the "pins" which is a small pigtail with the right pin to go into the connector, I'll have to provide the wire to go between the two sets of pins, yes?
5. Wire looms? Wire Tape? Etc... how to protect the wires.
6. Anything you have to do to protect/seal the penetration of the rubber firewall plug?
7. Where to buy? I'm always a little skeptical of buying stuff like this on Amazon without proper knowledge... for such an application where there is exposure to the elements/heat/cold/etc, I want to make sure I'm buying materials that are up to the task. I'm sure this can be done on Amazon, as long as you know what to look for.

 

[Calmate']

First of all, Congratulation, this is an awesome work!

on the other hand, I´m interested in showing the current gear. Could you detail how did you activate the gear indicator function?, If it works in automatic will be awesome, I would love to see wich gear I´m using. Thanks!!!

and once again, great job!

Hi nicobonis - if I understand correctly you want the gear indicator on the dash to light up just using the stock configuration rotary dial shifter and stock trans ? If that’s the case I’m not sure that’s possible - the indicator on the dash only works with the paddle shifters when I’m not using the paddle shifters, it won’t show me what gear the transmission is currently in - but I turned the indicator on using Forscan module configuration in the IPM module -

 

[Vtec87pr1]

Big thanks to @Vtec87pr1 for the original writeup, and big thanks to @Calmate' for providing additional info/pictures!

I've ordered a OEM paddle shift wheel from @Fast Mavericks and will be attempting this install soon.

For those of you that are very comfortable with automotive wiring, can you elaborate on the materials/tools here?

1. How to join the wires. What are you using? Crimped Open Barrel Terminals? No solder?
2. Which crimpers (I hear a good set of crimpers can make all of the difference?)
3. Heat shrink - what are you using? Adhesive lined heat shrink? In @Calmate' pictures I see "ES-1", which I gather is dual wall adhesive lined tubing. Assuming this is ideal, you using a heat gun to shrink it?
4. Wire... What type of wire/wire gage? I think @Fast Mavericks is offering only the "pins" which is a small pigtail with the right pin to go into the connector, I'll have to provide the wire to go between the two sets of pins, yes?
5. Wire looms? Wire Tape? Etc... how to protect the wires.
6. Anything you have to do to protect/seal the penetration of the rubber firewall plug?
7. Where to buy? I'm always a little skeptical of buying stuff like this on Amazon without proper knowledge... for such an application where there is exposure to the elements/heat/cold/etc, I want to make sure I'm buying materials that are up to the task. I'm sure this can be done on Amazon, as long as you know what to look for.

1. You can crimp the wires or Solder them like i did.
2. I will share a picture of my wire crimper tool.
3. My terminals came with the shrink tubing from ford if not i can give you the part number tomorrow of the ford oem shrink tubing .
4. I belive i used 14 ga or 16 gauge wires bought the roll from advance auto parts.
5. You could use wire loom kit that advance sells in the wiring area. Or tape
6 . Fire wall plug i drill a small hole and after i install the wires . I used silicone to seal the area.

I hope this helps.

 

[Calmate']

Big thanks to @Vtec87pr1 for the original writeup, and big thanks to @Calmate' for providing additional info/pictures!

I've ordered a OEM paddle shift wheel from @Fast Mavericks and will be attempting this install soon.

For those of you that are very comfortable with automotive wiring, can you elaborate on the materials/tools here?

1. How to join the wires. What are you using? Crimped Open Barrel Terminals? No solder?
2. Which crimpers (I hear a good set of crimpers can make all of the difference?)
3. Heat shrink - what are you using? Adhesive lined heat shrink? In @Calmate' pictures I see "ES-1", which I gather is dual wall adhesive lined tubing. Assuming this is ideal, you using a heat gun to shrink it?
4. Wire... What type of wire/wire gage? I think @Fast Mavericks is offering only the "pins" which is a small pigtail with the right pin to go into the connector, I'll have to provide the wire to go between the two sets of pins, yes?
5. Wire looms? Wire Tape? Etc... how to protect the wires.
6. Anything you have to do to protect/seal the penetration of the rubber firewall plug?
7. Where to buy? I'm always a little skeptical of buying stuff like this on Amazon without proper knowledge... for such an application where there is exposure to the elements/heat/cold/etc, I want to make sure I'm buying materials that are up to the task. I'm sure this can be done on Amazon, as long as you know what to look for.

Hello BradMav
The Ford pigtail connectors came with little barrel type crimp connector and the ES heat shrink tubing (nice) , I don’t have the part numbers on hand but look up VTec87pr1 how to post for the exact Ford part numbers and use those ! - then order those from the dealer - I don’t care for the little barrel connectors that come with the pigtail wires , so I stripped both the pigtail wire and the 18 gauge wire ends i used and simply twisted the ends tightly together - I then used a soldering iron and thin solder to lay a couple drops of solder on the twisted wires. Don’t forget to put a piece of the heat shrink on one end of the wire before you twist them together! After soldering the wires simply slip the heat shrink tubing over the wires and use a small heat gun - some guys use a box lighter or mini torch and heat the tubing until the adhesive bubbles out -
I used 3 different color 18 guage wires to make the loom - I just used “wire loom tape “ from Amazon - cloth in one side adhesive on the other - I wrapped the 3 wires from the interior and through the rubber grommet in the firewall - I found no need to seal the grommet further if you use a sharp metal pick tool to poke through the grommet - I like to use the trigger type wire strippers -
And crimpers are just what works good for you - just make sure you follow VTec87pr1 post - He’s the man for coming up with this mod- !!!good
Luck

 

[Fast Mavericks]

Here are the part numbers. They only sell them in packs of 5 and yes they are expensive. The price is per pin! The cheaper one is for the pcm and the more expensive one for the steering module.

 

[nicobonis]

Hi nicobonis - if I understand correctly you want the gear indicator on the dash to light up just using the stock configuration rotary dial shifter and stock trans ? If that’s the case I’m not sure that’s possible - the indicator on the dash only works with the paddle shifters when I’m not using the paddle shifters, it won’t show me what gear the transmission is currently in - but I turned the indicator on using Forscan module configuration in the IPM module -

Ok, I got it.

I think I will purchase the paddle shifts,

¿Could you detail forscan modifications?

Thanks!

 

[BradMav]

Here are the part numbers. They only sell them in packs of 5 and yes they are expensive. The price is per pin! The cheaper one is for the pcm and the more expensive one for the steering module.

Yeah, that price is madness for what appears to be a tiny length of wire and a crimped on piece of metal... wth Ford lol. I wonder if there is any way to source just the metal pin end piece instead of buying the full expensive "terminal" kit, it looks like it is just crimped on to wire? I guess that is something proprietary, or could it be some kind of standard electrical connector? What would be nice about that too is you could then avoid having to add two joins to each wire... skipping all of the solder/shrink tube/etc.

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