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Maverick Lobo Autocross Testing & Handling Upgrades

Manning

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The IPMA is the silver finned box behind the back seat.

Stock size PS4's. 225/55-19
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Chops

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The IPMA is the silver finned box behind the back seat.

Stock size PS4's. 225/55-19
I was going to guess the driver side footwell. I was way off! I’m assuming that the heat is from the sun? Are you using a tonneau to reduce your coefficient of drag?:)
 

Manning

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Yes, at this point I'm nearly certain the issues were caused by the sun heating up the black bedliner which transferred all that heat to the back wall of the cab, then heating up the IPMA.

And I have given thought about the tonneau cover to reduce drag. But the average speed is around 35 mph. So the weight would probably cancel out the drag reduction.
 

Chops

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Yes, at this point I'm nearly certain the issues were caused by the sun heating up the black bedliner which transferred all that heat to the back wall of the cab, then heating up the IPMA.

And I have given thought about the tonneau cover to reduce drag. But the average speed is around 35 mph. So the weight would probably cancel out the drag reduction.
If lightweight tonneaus are NASCAR legal - I’m guessing they’re SCCA legal:)

Your Oxford White is my favorite LOBO color. Tough decision between a white tonneau or a black one!

Yes, NASCAR exceeds the 35mph speeds of your twisty turny races - but still…
Ford Maverick Maverick Lobo Autocross Testing & Handling Upgrades IMG_0416
 
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Dad

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1000014342.jpg


Maverick Lobo Autocross Testing & Handling Upgrades


Backstory:

I've been involved in Autocross and Time Attack events since 2018—competing, running clubs, and for the last three years, running my own series.

I had been struggling to find a vehicle that could haul gear, tow a small cargo trailer, and still be fun to drive.

Enter the damn-near-perfect vehicle for the job: The Lobo!

I purchased it two weeks ago and have already done some testing to figure out what modifications it needs to handle better—while still being a comfortable daily driver.

The good news? It's actually fairly well-sorted in stock form and only needs a few basic upgrades to make this little truck handle like a sports sedan.

AutoX Testing:
1000014272.jpg

In stock form, I took it to one of my own events—StratoCross—which is an AutoX held on an oversized go-kart track called Stratotech Raceway.

With the truck having only 200 miles on it, I kept the acceleration tame. I just wanted to do a few runs to see how it behaves at the limit and where it needs improvement.


First impressions:

  • The stock tires are awful. Just light braking into the first corner caused them to lock up instantly, with ABS going crazy.
  • The stock seats have almost no bolstering. Braking and turning right had me slamming into the door panel; a sharp left and I was bashing my knee off the dash and leaning over the center console.

This is going to be an abusive relationship.

After a few events, I can confidently say: the truck, in stock form, is surprisingly well-sorted for what it is—except for the tires and seats. It turns decently, has some off-throttle rotation, and enough torque to pull out of corners. The traction/stability control is a bit too intrusive in Lobo mode, which is crucial for AutoX.

I did learn that if you press & hold the ESC OFF button for ~5 seconds you can further disable it!

The main issues are:
  • Dialing out the inherent understeer
  • Improving how it transitions
  • Better braking
Swapping to proper tires will solve most of these issues. A few minor suspension tweaks should make it easier to carry more speed through corners & transition faster.

The Goal:

I set a baseline time against the top driver in my area. On average, the Lobo was 7.5 seconds slower over a 50 second course than a stock but properly-prepared Civic Type R for AutoX.

My goal: make a few basic modifications to bring it into mid-pack territory in overall results—just enough to annoy your average Corvette or FRS/BRZ driver.

To do that, I need to cut about 4 seconds. Totally doable!

Mod List Plan:
  • Better Tires
  • Better Seat
  • Stiffer Rear Sway Bar
  • Lowering Springs
  • Performance Alignment

Better Tires:

This is the biggest factor—80% of the performance gains will come from better tires.

Since I’m sticking with the stock 19x7.5" rims for the rest of this season, my options are limited. To maintain stock diameter, the best tires I found were a few UHP-rated summer tires, but none are ideal AutoX tires.

I went with Firestone Indy 500s in 245/50/19. They're far from great, but good enough to help me close that 4-second gap—and they’re cheap.

1000014378.jpg



Next season, I’ll upgrade to lightweight 20” wheels and proper 200TW tires, once sizes are back in stock. That alone should knock off another 1.5–2 seconds.

Seat:

The stock seats are unacceptable for any spirited driving. You flop around during transitions, and as grip increases, the problem gets worse. It's hard to drive with precision when you're all tensed up trying to stay up right.

I'm currently looking for a comfortable, bolt-in solution. A Focus ST seat swap might be the way to go.

Rear Sway Bar:

Most OEM setups are tuned to understeer for safety, and the Maverick is no exception. For AWD vehicles, it’s common to run the stiffest rear sway bar available to improve rotation.

I went with the Goodwin Racing rear bar

1000014249.jpg



Springs:

One issue with the Maverick is its height-to-track-width ratio. Some AutoX events require a 1:1 ratio. The truck sits at ~65" tall with a ~63.5" track width—about 1.5" off the requirement.

1000014227.jpg


As a daily driver, I still want a comfortable ride. Lowering springs are a simple fix that also improve handling.

I bought a Goodwin Racing spring + sway bar package. The spring rates are only slightly stiffer than stock, so they still work well with the OEM shocks.

1000014224.jpg


Note: Even with these springs, I’m still ~½” too tall for the 1:1 rule. However, most organizations should still allow it. If needed, H&R Super Sports might get you within spec.

(In my region, they go by overall width, not track width—so it's allowed in stock form.)

Alignment:

1000014365.jpg


Lowering gave me about:
  • -1.0° front camber
  • -1.3° rear camber
But the front still needs more camber to reduce understeer & the toe needs to be zeroed out to help it turn in better.

I installed Eibach camber bolts to get the front camber close to -2.5°—the usual max for a daily without excessive tire wear.

I'll be setting:
  • Front toe: 0° (from factory toe-in)
  • Rear toe: 0° (from factory toe-in)
  • Front Camber -2.5°
  • Rear Camber -1.3°

Upcoming Testing:

I have a few more AutoX events lined up. We’ll see how close I can get to knocking off that 4-second gap with these basic mods!

*Update- The Changes listed knocked off more than 4 seconds!

Autocross Classing Issue:
1000014324.jpg


If your local club uses SCCA classing, the Maverick technically doesn't meet the height-to-track-width requirement and won't be classed.

However, I entered it into G Street Touring without issue.

TL;DR: How to Make Your Maverick Handle Like a Sports Sedan

  • Replace stock tires with UHP summer tires or better
  • Install a stiffer rear sway bar
  • Lower with sport springs
  • Install front camber bolts and set camber to -2.5°
  • Set front & rear toe to 0°
  • Replace the front seat!

Updates

How-To Write Ups
•How to install Camber Bolts
•How To Set Toe to 0°
•How to turn off AdvancedTrac ESC
Terrific write-up crammed with first hand experience. Invaluable advice for many members. Keep us posted on your progress.
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