wax vs cleaner wax

[dwinch53]

So I read that the Mavericks come over to the Great USA by rail and then trucked to the dealers after setting in yards and collecting dirt grim rain ect...so when receiving your brand new Maverick which is better to do after washing well...Use a good wax or a cleaner wax...No ceramic coating comments please just wax or Cleaner Wax discussions, thanks

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[KrS]

I'd do carnauba wax AFTER clay barring it.

 

[h1k3rb]

Don't wax much anymore but Meguiar's cleaner wax for me every time. Easy to use, works great, need nothing else.

 

[dwinch53]

I'd do carnauba wax AFTER clay barring it.

thank you Bob

 

[Maverick123]

I'd use an iron remover FIRST
Then the clay bar, and after that regular wax. The paint will be plenty clean by then

 

[notfast]

Former auto detailer here. What I recommended for those that wanted to do a bit of DIY is to wash it once a week (a gas station wash is fine), wax it once a month, and claybar it twice a year. That'll keep the car looking better than 90% of the cars on the road.

I suggest a cleaner wax as a one-and-done deal. Cleaner wax has a mild polishing component in it, and it can also be used to rub off small scuff marks and other minor imperfections. Unless you're entering a show car competition, doing the whole strip wash-compound-polish-synthetic wax-carnauba wax-topper process is overkill. If you don't believe me, I suggest you peruse your local CarMax and see the condition of typical late-model used cars.

Meguiar's Cleaner Wax in the maroon bottle is inexpensive and a great carnauba-based cleaner wax. If you're looking for a synthetic/ceramic alternative, Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Polish and Wax is a good option and lets you wax maybe once every other month.

As for equipment, a DA polisher will allow you to put on a thinner and more even coat of wax than you ever could by hand, but it is absolutely not necessary. I simply use one because I still have them from when I detailed cars. For those that really wanted to try their hand at DA polishing, I used to recommend the Meguiar's DA Power System that attaches to a cordless drill.

However, the Bauer 5.7 Amp, 6 in., 8 mm Short-Throw Random Orbit DA Polisher/Sander frequently goes on sale for $50 and it's a real DA polisher with proper ergonomics. Yes it's corded, but to be honest the only time I found a cordless polisher helpful was when I was doing the roofs of vans or trailers. Other than that, a cordless DA polisher with a 4Ah battery is heavier and bulkier than just throwing a power cord over your shoulder.

What I would suggest you start out with is a 6" foam "finishing" pad and a manual handle, such as this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJ3NY15Z

Those $1 microfiber applicator pads suck because they get caked with wax way too quickly and lower the efficacy of the polishing effect of cleaner wax. They are also too thin, so your finger pressure is uneven. Using a handle on a regular foam polishing pad allows for more even pressure across the pad. It's sort of like sanding a piece of wood by just holding the sand paper directly versus attaching the sandpaper to a sanding block. Microfiber applicator pads are good for the edges or tight spots but not for the flat panels.

 

[matmondro]

I'm also a proponent of clay barring first before any wax. IMHO, if you use the clay bar first then you don't need to use a cleaner wax.

My method: wash, clay bar, wash again, then apply and buff my favorite liquid wax (Meguiar's NXT or Griot's Best Of Show).

 

[Hammer]

Former auto detailer here. What I recommended for those that wanted to do a bit of DIY is to wash it once a week (a gas station wash is fine), wax it once a month, and claybar it twice a year. That'll keep the car looking better than 90% of the cars on the road.

I suggest a cleaner wax as a one-and-done deal. Cleaner wax has a mild polishing component in it, and it can also be used to rub off small scuff marks and other minor imperfections. Unless you're entering a show car competition, doing the whole strip wash-compound-polish-synthetic wax-carnauba wax-topper process is overkill. If you don't believe me, I suggest you peruse your local CarMax and see the condition of typical late-model used cars.

Meguiar's Cleaner Wax in the maroon bottle is inexpensive and a great carnauba-based cleaner wax. If you're looking for a synthetic/ceramic alternative, Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Polish and Wax is a good option and lets you wax maybe once every other month.

As for equipment, a DA polisher will allow you to put on a thinner and more even coat of wax than you ever could by hand, but it is absolutely not necessary. I simply use one because I still have them from when I detailed cars. For those that really wanted to try their hand at DA polishing, I used to recommend the Meguiar's DA Power System that attaches to a cordless drill.

However, the Bauer 5.7 Amp, 6 in., 8 mm Short-Throw Random Orbit DA Polisher/Sander frequently goes on sale for $50 and it's a real DA polisher with proper ergonomics. Yes it's corded, but to be honest the only time I found a cordless polisher helpful was when I was doing the roofs of vans or trailers. Other than that, a cordless DA polisher with a 4Ah battery is heavier and bulkier than just throwing a power cord over your shoulder.

What I would suggest you start out with is a 6" foam "finishing" pad and a manual handle, such as this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJ3NY15Z

Those $1 microfiber applicator pads suck because they get caked with wax way too quickly and lower the efficacy of the polishing effect of cleaner wax. They are also too thin, so your finger pressure is uneven. Using a handle on a regular foam polishing pad allows for more even pressure across the pad. It's sort of like sanding a piece of wood by just holding the sand paper directly versus attaching the sandpaper to a sanding block. Microfiber applicator pads are good for the edges or tight spots but not for the flat panels.

all good info - thanks …. What do you recommend for a hood graphic ? I added a tremor decal to my hood, but not sure what’s safe to use for wax/polish.

 

[notfast]

I'm also a proponent of clay barring first before any wax.

I agree. If you choose to use a clay bar, it should be done after washing but before waxing.

IMHO, if you use the clay bar first then you don't need to use a cleaner wax.

They're different tools for different jobs. Clay bars are great for removing surface contaminants like brake dust and other fallout stuck on the clearcoat, but they don't polish, so they cannot remove minor scratches and swirls.

Clay barring also takes a long time and a lot of effort. I charged extra for those that wanted natural clay barring. Synthetic clay is substantially faster and less labor-intensive, as in, after washing the car once, I just spray the car with soapy water and scrub it with a synthetic clay bar. It works about 80% as good as natural clay. I then use natural clay for the stubborn bits.

My method: wash, clay bar, wash again, then apply and buff my favorite liquid wax (Meguiar's NXT or Griot's Best Of Show).

That's a good method, but clay barring doesn't have to be done every cycle, nor waxing. Using a stand-alone wax (as opposed to a cleaner wax) is more than sufficient, just it won't remove minor scratches/swirls/scuffs. It'll fill them in instead. When they start reappearing is when you know you need to wax it.

all good info - thanks …. What do you recommend for a hood graphic ? I added a tremor decal to my hood, but not sure what’s safe to use for wax/polish.

If the graphic is glossy I would use a standalone wax. Vinyl and PPF scratches/swirls a lot easier than clearcoat and it doesn't polish out, so I'd skip polishing altogether and just keep it washed and waxed.

If the graphic is matte, you don't wax or polish it because, well, it's matte. Waxing or polishing will leave glossy streaks. Instead just use a matte detailer, and be very diligent at spot cleaning it because any damage cannot be polished out or covered with wax. You'd want to mask off the edge of the decal when you wax the paint, and mask off the edge of the paint when you apply the matte detailer.

 

[dwinch53]

I'd use an iron remover FIRST
Then the clay bar, and after that regular wax. The paint will be plenty clean by then

thanks

 

[yldman56]

Former auto detailer here. What I recommended for those that wanted to do a bit of DIY is to wash it once a week (a gas station wash is fine), wax it once a month, and claybar it twice a year. That'll keep the car looking better than 90% of the cars on the road.

I suggest a cleaner wax as a one-and-done deal. Cleaner wax has a mild polishing component in it, and it can also be used to rub off small scuff marks and other minor imperfections. Unless you're entering a show car competition, doing the whole strip wash-compound-polish-synthetic wax-carnauba wax-topper process is overkill. If you don't believe me, I suggest you peruse your local CarMax and see the condition of typical late-model used cars.

Meguiar's Cleaner Wax in the maroon bottle is inexpensive and a great carnauba-based cleaner wax. If you're looking for a synthetic/ceramic alternative, Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Polish and Wax is a good option and lets you wax maybe once every other month.

As for equipment, a DA polisher will allow you to put on a thinner and more even coat of wax than you ever could by hand, but it is absolutely not necessary. I simply use one because I still have them from when I detailed cars. For those that really wanted to try their hand at DA polishing, I used to recommend the Meguiar's DA Power System that attaches to a cordless drill.

However, the Bauer 5.7 Amp, 6 in., 8 mm Short-Throw Random Orbit DA Polisher/Sander frequently goes on sale for $50 and it's a real DA polisher with proper ergonomics. Yes it's corded, but to be honest the only time I found a cordless polisher helpful was when I was doing the roofs of vans or trailers. Other than that, a cordless DA polisher with a 4Ah battery is heavier and bulkier than just throwing a power cord over your shoulder.

What I would suggest you start out with is a 6" foam "finishing" pad and a manual handle, such as this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJ3NY15Z

Those $1 microfiber applicator pads suck because they get caked with wax way too quickly and lower the efficacy of the polishing effect of cleaner wax. They are also too thin, so your finger pressure is uneven. Using a handle on a regular foam polishing pad allows for more even pressure across the pad. It's sort of like sanding a piece of wood by just holding the sand paper directly versus attaching the sandpaper to a sanding block. Microfiber applicator pads are good for the edges or tight spots but not for the flat panels.

Thanks

 

[Hammer]

I agree. If you choose to use a clay bar, it should be done after washing but before waxing.



They're different tools for different jobs. Clay bars are great for removing surface contaminants like brake dust and other fallout stuck on the clearcoat, but they don't polish, so they cannot remove minor scratches and swirls.

Clay barring also takes a long time and a lot of effort. I charged extra for those that wanted natural clay barring. Synthetic clay is substantially faster and less labor-intensive, as in, after washing the car once, I just spray the car with soapy water and scrub it with a synthetic clay bar. It works about 80% as good as natural clay. I then use natural clay for the stubborn bits.



That's a good method, but clay barring doesn't have to be done every cycle, nor waxing. Using a stand-alone wax (as opposed to a cleaner wax) is more than sufficient, just it won't remove minor scratches/swirls/scuffs. It'll fill them in instead. When they start reappearing is when you know you need to wax it.



If the graphic is glossy I would use a standalone wax. Vinyl and PPF scratches/swirls a lot easier than clearcoat and it doesn't polish out, so I'd skip polishing altogether and just keep it washed and waxed.

If the graphic is matte, you don't wax or polish it because, well, it's matte. Waxing or polishing will leave glossy streaks. Instead just use a matte detailer, and be very diligent at spot cleaning it because any damage cannot be polished out or covered with wax. You'd want to mask off the edge of the decal when you wax the paint, and mask off the edge of the paint when you apply the matte detailer.

good info - Decal is matte and I will follow your suggestions. Thanks.

 

[dochawk]

What do you recommend for a hood graphic ? I

Go for a transam screaming chicken! why not, they're putting them on everything these days! [like black Japanese SUVs. and then they send them to classic car auctions because, uhm, . . .]

Anyway, I decided long before it arrived to ceramic my wife's 2025 maverick.

It spent three weeks, iirc, moping at the in-town train yard during a quality hold (that apparently did noting). I told the dealer to skip the waxing, and water only hand wash.

After washing twice with rinseless wash (once for the dirt, and the second with a fresh microfiber to clean), I used a clay mitt. I had clay bars in reserve, too.

On that brand new paint, though, doing the hood and front fenders, there were absolutely no sticking spots! (I think I then tried a clay bar with the same results.) I did the rest with just the double wash & ceramic. (OK, I still need to do the roof. Oops!)

So if you're doing it on a newly arrived beast, you can pretty much clean thoroughly and then wax or ceramic. (and I live in one of the dustiest places in the country, Las Vegas)

 

[matmondro]

That's a good method, but clay barring doesn't have to be done every cycle, nor waxing. Using a stand-alone wax (as opposed to a cleaner wax) is more than sufficient, just it won't remove minor scratches/swirls/scuffs. It'll fill them in instead. When they start reappearing is when you know you need to wax it.

Oh yeah, I don't clay bar every cycle. I do this whole method twice a year, once in spring and once in fall. In between, I'm able to keep up by washing and then following with a spray wax. Sometimes I do have to get the cleaner wax out, but not often (usually in the spring detailing to clean up the car wash blues).

 

[Cherokee]

I’ve always used turtle wash with wax. Nothing more.
My 2021 Bronco Sport in shadow black looked great at four years when I traded it in.

Had my Hot Pepper Red Maverick nine months now. I’ve washed it five times with my
Turtle wash n wax soap. Still looks new.

Somebody said use peanut butter to get the plastic bed edge trim clean. It gets dirt dirty and won’t wash out with the soap.

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