Is this harness all I need for a full system?

[zach57x]

PAC LPHFD31 LocPro Advanced T-Harness

Photo attached of what my setup would look like. In order to have the ACM send a pre-amp signal to a DSP, to a mono block and a 4 channel, and from the 4 channel back to the factory speaker wiring is this all that I need?

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[Carlitos_92]

Few basic things, apologies if I misunderstood your plan anywhere along the way:

There is no "pre-amp" signal from the ACM in an XLT. You get 4 speaker-level outs and that's about it. Keep that in mind as you pick your DSP/line converter and look at wire pathways.

If the tweeters/door speakers are components, you may want to run new wires to the tweeters. The ACM only has L/R front signals, so it makes it hard to get any kind of crossover into the factory wiring. I am taking the factory front signal, pushing it through half a Key200.4, and then into the crossover that came with my components. From there, low/mid pass will go back to the factory door wiring in that harness, but the high pass will be rewired to the dash tweeters.

Remember there is no remote turn-on signal out of the ACM (or in that harness). The signal-sensing turn-on in amps can be problematic, so you'll want to run a 'blue" wire when you pull power for the amp.

 

[newagecritter]

If you run your wires to a key 200.4 right in the dash you can send the door signal out from ACM with a split to run into a key 500 in the rear. Skip the crossover for the tweets and run biamp letting the key do its thing. The key does signal turn on but I’m with Carlitos on running a dedicated remote. Look at the interior fis panel in the owners manual and use a fuse tap. I forget which number I tapped.​

 

[Rdnkbobby]

I used the PAC audio t harness and extension wires also from pac audio to power i to a kenwood 5 channel amplifier with high level inputs and auto signal power on. With replacement speakers in the doors and pillars plus 2 8" subs under the rear seat it is all you NEED to run a higher power system in the mav. If your amplifiers dont have high level inputs you will need a line converter at the very least.

 

[Carlitos_92]

Skip the crossover for the tweets and run biamp letting the key do its thing.​

A good option if you don't want to power or process the puny rear pillar speakers - but I've never seen anyone actually find the separate wires feeding the dash tweeters. How are you getting the biamped signal to the tweeters (i.e the GN-BU and VT-GY wires)?

FYI fuse 6 is probably the go-to since its power status mimics what the radio/display do anyway. Fuse 3 is another open one, but I believe it powers off as soon as you turn the engine off, as opposed to opening a door.

 

[newagecritter]

A good option if you don't want to power or process the puny rear pillar speakers - but I've never seen anyone actually find the separate wires feeding the dash tweeters. How are you getting the biamped signal to the tweeters (i.e the GN-BU and VT-GY wires)?

FYI fuse 6 is probably the go-to since its power status mimics what the radio/display do anyway. Fuse 3 is another open one, but I believe it powers off as soon as you turn the engine off, as opposed to opening a door.

I believe you’d need to run the wire for the tweets. I upgraded a B&O so all my wiring was behind the rear seat back. I have worked with the dash in modern ford and there is pretty good space for passing wires. The rears are barely audible with a good amplified component set. Add an underseat sub and the rears are all but unnecessary. If you are worried about rear passenger enjoyment I’d say I’m present the wrong option.

 

[Carlitos_92]

I believe you’d need to run the wire for the tweets. I upgraded a B&O so all my wiring was behind the rear seat back. I have worked with the dash in modern ford and there is pretty good space for passing wires. The rears are barely audible with a good amplified component set. Add an underseat sub and the rears are all but unnecessary. If you are worried about rear passenger enjoyment I’d say I’m present the wrong option.

All good. I'm hell-bent on upgrading the rear speakers because I like the "ambiance" a little rear soundstage provides, but I'll have them cranked down pretty low. Still, in my case, no one rides back there, and with my 50W in their earhole, they wouldn't want to.

I'm not even sure OP wants to do it, but I mainly just wanted to confirm/clarify for future readers that there is a tiny bit more wiring effort for a good biamp system up front. If not for the paragraph above, I'd definitely go that route myself.

 

[XHusker]

Few basic things, apologies if I misunderstood your plan anywhere along the way:

There is no "pre-amp" signal from the ACM in an XLT. You get 4 speaker-level outs and that's about it. Keep that in mind as you pick your DSP/line converter and look at wire pathways.

If the tweeters/door speakers are components, you may want to run new wires to the tweeters. The ACM only has L/R front signals, so it makes it hard to get any kind of crossover into the factory wiring. I am taking the factory front signal, pushing it through half a Key200.4, and then into the crossover that came with my components. From there, low/mid pass will go back to the factory door wiring in that harness, but the high pass will be rewired to the dash tweeters.

Remember there is no remote turn-on signal out of the ACM (or in that harness). The signal-sensing turn-on in amps can be problematic, so you'll want to run a 'blue" wire when you pull power for the amp.

All this is why I am just thankful I can turn my radio on and hear what is coming out just fine.

 

[zach57x]

Few basic things, apologies if I misunderstood your plan anywhere along the way:

There is no "pre-amp" signal from the ACM in an XLT. You get 4 speaker-level outs and that's about it. Keep that in mind as you pick your DSP/line converter and look at wire pathways.

If the tweeters/door speakers are components, you may want to run new wires to the tweeters. The ACM only has L/R front signals, so it makes it hard to get any kind of crossover into the factory wiring. I am taking the factory front signal, pushing it through half a Key200.4, and then into the crossover that came with my components. From there, low/mid pass will go back to the factory door wiring in that harness, but the high pass will be rewired to the dash tweeters.

Remember there is no remote turn-on signal out of the ACM (or in that harness). The signal-sensing turn-on in amps can be problematic, so you'll want to run a 'blue" wire when you pull power for the amp.

Do you have a photo or diagram of your front setup? Also I am looking at some alpine components that do not come with a crossover.

Also I plan on using an Alpine DSP as well that can take the high-voltage signal then send that to an amp then back to the speakers

 

[Carlitos_92]

Do you have a photo or diagram of your front setup? Also I am looking at some alpine components that do not come with a crossover.

Also I plan on using an Alpine DSP as well that can take the high-voltage signal then send that to an amp then back to the speakers

Here you go. This is fabbed up but not installed yet due to life…

 

[zach57x]

Here you go. This is fabbed up but not installed yet due to life…

Where are you planning to put the crossovers

 

[Carlitos_92]

Where are you planning to put the crossovers

I am putting the amp behind the glovebox using the 3D-printed bracket shared by other forum members here. The crossovers I will probably just mount on the inside face of the rear of the glovebox since they do have an adjustable tweeter output that I might want to tweak. They are about the size of a pack of cards each and will not be in the way if I can give them wiring slack for the glovebox to open/close.

 

[zach57x]

I am putting the amp behind the glovebox using the 3D-printed bracket shared by other forum members here. The crossovers I will probably just mount on the inside face of the rear of the glovebox since they do have an adjustable tweeter output that I might want to tweak. They are about the size of a pack of cards each and will not be in the way if I can give them wiring slack for the glovebox to open/close.

Gotcha, I plan on making an amp rack for the dsp, 4 channels and mono block to go behind the rear seats. I’m guessing I could put my crossovers near where you suggested or inside the door cards?

 

[newagecritter]

Gotcha, I plan on making an amp rack for the dsp, 4 channels and mono block to go behind the rear seats. I’m guessing I could put my crossovers near where you suggested or inside the door cards?

This is a great rack spot. Without the B&O amp in the way you can clip the two prongs of the factory rack and mount a piece of MDF or HDPE right to the factory rack and I’m jealous of that LOL.

 

[zach57x]

This is a great rack spot. Without the B&O amp in the way you can clip the two prongs of the factory rack and mount a piece of MDF or HDPE right to the factory rack and I’m jealous of that LOL.

I wanna do a rack that spans the whole wall, I found this guy on Reddit his setup is awesome

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