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Finally found a couple hours to put the Steeda rear sway bar on. It seems to be exactly what I was looking for. The handling is right where I want it and the ride quality is still there. That is the nice thing about rear sway bars, they have very little effect on ride quality but make a big difference in the corners. This one is 1 inch diameter and is rated at 280lb, 350lb and 450lb. The factory bar is rated at 270lb. I decided to go with the 350lb setting. I have an off ramp that has not changed in 20yrs. At the slowest point it is between 45-52 mph with all the sport compacts I have modified over the years. With the Sumitomo 245/55R18 on 18x8 45mm offset wheels and the Steeda rear sway bar on the middle setting I was able to do 50mph in the same area. I was debating about Eibach springs but after putting on the Steeda rear bar I don't think I will bother. Since the truck handles this good the ride height does not bother me. I am not a big fan of changing factory suspension geometry unless I really need to.
The install was not bad, you do need a good assortment of tools. T50, T40, 18mm box and socket, Impact, swivel, extension, 13mm box, 10mm socket, clip removal tool, 2 or 3 jacks large flat head, patience. I jacked the back end up on both sides as high as I could with small 6x6 blocks on the jack pad. Take off both wheels, then disconnect both endlinks from the factory bar. I started mine with a 18mm impact then finished with the t40 and the 18mm box wrench. You might need to jack one side of the suspension up slightly to get rid of the tension on the sway bar to get the end links out. That's why I said you might need 3 jacks, going back together won't be an issue. Then remove the shields that are over the brackets for the bushings. Next is the bushing brackets , passenger side is the 13mm and the drivers side is T50. Now remove/pry off the metal brackets from the rubber bushings so you can pull the sway bar out the passenger side suspension. If you have to force it your not doing it right. If you take your time and stay patient it will come out over the right rear trailing arm. It does rub on the muffler heat shield while taking it out but there is just enough room.
The install was not bad, you do need a good assortment of tools. T50, T40, 18mm box and socket, Impact, swivel, extension, 13mm box, 10mm socket, clip removal tool, 2 or 3 jacks large flat head, patience. I jacked the back end up on both sides as high as I could with small 6x6 blocks on the jack pad. Take off both wheels, then disconnect both endlinks from the factory bar. I started mine with a 18mm impact then finished with the t40 and the 18mm box wrench. You might need to jack one side of the suspension up slightly to get rid of the tension on the sway bar to get the end links out. That's why I said you might need 3 jacks, going back together won't be an issue. Then remove the shields that are over the brackets for the bushings. Next is the bushing brackets , passenger side is the 13mm and the drivers side is T50. Now remove/pry off the metal brackets from the rubber bushings so you can pull the sway bar out the passenger side suspension. If you have to force it your not doing it right. If you take your time and stay patient it will come out over the right rear trailing arm. It does rub on the muffler heat shield while taking it out but there is just enough room.
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