Parking E-brake malfunction photos

[kurtzcrew3]

25 XLT Hybrid at dealer for 6 weeks. Parking brake would not disengage in neutral tow mode. Replaced PCM & ABSM modules to clear all fault codes. So far so good

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[JimG-24]

Is it NEW or used? If it had hail damage and a NEW vehicle I would have walked away!

New, dealer give deals because of recent hail in my area, and they fix nearly all of them. Hail only cause exterior damage, right?

 

[JimG-24]

I have a 25 AWD Hybrid that had a similar issue. It spent 3 weeks at the dealer. They replaced the electric brake booster. It took two weeks to get the part and then a week for them to install it.

Ah, took that long?

So, everything is good now? So nothing about battery?

 

[JimG-24]

Posted in other post, but ....


"
My '25 literally just got dropped off at the dealer for the same problem. They're replacing some sensor (name is escaping me) that basically tells the vehicle if it's in park or not; and therefor whether the ebrake should be toggleable or not.

It took them a week to get the part, but only a day to diagnose it at the time. I'm not sure what they're dragging their feet on.

I doubt it's a lemon in the truest sense. Your ford mechanic needs to do better.

Semi-related, did you get any kind of "service vehicle soon" error? I did, and that triggered the ford app, and I assume helped the tech find the problem sooner. "

Also, it's a holiday in the US AND the weekend. You might need to calm yourself a little and call them tomorrow or Tuesday when they're probably back to full staff.

Thank you, my fordpass also had the warning. Right now, from the app, they may remove one rear wheel, because I could only see three tire pressure.

I will call Monday afternoon or Tuesday.

 

[JimG-24]

You dropped it off on a Friday and most dealership service departments only have skeleton staff on weekends, if they are open at all. Depending on how busy the dealership is, they may not even get around to it for a couple of (business) days.

I think you are right,

 

[JimG-24]

The reason I ask is that shows on the vehicle report forever. Even if fixed it shows up later and for insurance. But if the discount was say 25% I would consider it. I had a F-150 with $6000 in hail damage and it caused $10,000 in lost value after being fixed.

Ouch, I really don't know it could cost that much, it made me feel even worse now.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Ouch, I really don't know it could cost that much, it made me feel even worse now.

My daughter-in-law's Telluride had $16,700 hail damage when it was five months old. After repair was started, COVID SHUTDOWN occured. The body shop had around 60 rental cars which they paid for during the 14 months. The hail was so large that the entire roof panel was replaced including the support brackets which were severely bent. That roof panel had to be shipped to S Carolina from Oregon as it was the last available one. Seemed stupid because the Telluride was being repaired within 125 mile from the plant where it had been made(?). After the 30 day insurance rental car coverage ran out the Body shop paid for rental. This was after she waited 10 months for the car to be made and delivered.

 

[JimG-24]

My late wife's 2017 Patriot had $9300 in hail damage and took a week to fix.

I kind of know "body work" is expensive, from all you said, it is really really expensive !

When I went there to shop Maverick, I was told the hail damage, dents on hood and top, they replaced the hood, leave the top as is. The one I bought, looks like, had ~10 dents on the top. While I am buying the car, at least two other similar hail damaged ones also were sold, a senior bought a sand one which I test drove. Looking back, I wished I could bargain harder. After all, as long as car turned to be fine, I probably ok with it, for me, it is a commute car, occasionally carry some mulch or stones for yard works.

By the way, from the app, I can tell the car has been drove about 10 miles by dealer, but still no call from them.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Talk about buying hail damage vehicles. I just remembered when I was in Amarillo late 70's or 80's big hailstorm almost all of several dealers inventory totaled, had almost all glass knocked out and many big dents. One rancher came in and purchased 9-12 pickups for less than $1000 each. Had glass replaced, nothing else. Told the news station that they would just be used on the ranch and was not going to register them.

 

[JimG-24]

Update: this morning, I noticed app showed car has been driven twice, each about 10 miles, I called dealer, dealer read tech notes, only mentioned "low 12 voltage battery", then he talked to the tech, text me to keep car one more day.

 

[JimG-24]

25 XLT Hybrid at dealer for 6 weeks. Parking brake would not disengage in neutral tow mode. Replaced PCM & ABSM modules to clear all fault codes. So far so good

I have been thinking through, mine might be issue of PCM too, I guess. The puzzling is dealer has not contact me for what the problem is they think, but I can see they are testing something, because the car has been driven ~10 mile per day in three days so far, but never called me, only said they are diagnosing and observing.

My worry is they did some "easy-fix", like reset something, then test drive 10 miles, let car parking overnight, however, next morning, issue appeared again, E-parking brake still not disengaged. They probably puzzled too, otherwise, there is no reason not to inform me what happened.

I also checked this thread, "Neutral tow mode", yours and mine are different, ours are related to E-parking brake, since replacing PCM helped you, mine might be similar.

Thanks

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/neutral-tow-mode-help.36221/

 

[kurtzcrew3]

Good luck

 

[Suzukiridr14]

Not a lemon - by the legal definition it sounds like you are asking about.

Could it have a strange issue not normally seen - always possible.

Could it have a low battery because 24MY sitting on lot since October and they forgot to charge it - yes.
And doing the Battery Sensor reset at that time would be terrible.
Sets a new low for what the truck now thinks is a new fully charged battery.

Curious though - after the night shift, it did start, but then failed to release the parking brake?

Ya, that's probably something else.

But what it sounds like they did with battery was still not good.
While they have it - they need to charge that battery fully - then BS reset it.
When you get it back - you need to lock it overnight for a BMS relearn.
That's all in your manual.

I noticed things on different cars, started having problems when the battery was over 3 years old. Different icons on the dash board, or screens, kept coming on. Replaced the battery, and all the gremlins disappeared! I think if they replace the battery, all will clear up.

 

[JimG-24]

I noticed things on different cars, started having problems when the battery was over 3 years old. Different icons on the dash board, or screens, kept coming on. Replaced the battery, and all the gremlins disappeared! I think if they replace the battery, all will clear up.

Thanks, dealer said it was the "battery".

So, this Morning, dealer called and let me pick up the car. I looked their report, basically they said it is due to "low voltage DTC". They first retrieved three codes, ABS C0020:11; ABS P0503:86, ABS P0562:16, also run OASIS. What they did is: disconnect C135A/B, charge battery, run load test, inspect all the cable and connection, then test drive three days, 10 mile per day, let car sit overnight, next day, no warning code came out.

The one I talked to , he said, he thought when repairing hail body works, the door might be kept open or others, then drain a lot power from battery. It kind of make sense, but given it is brand new car, still felt bad, and hoping Ford issue battery either recall or software update after this quarter.

Hopefully, next a few days, nothing happen, just drive and go.

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