Oil change from dipstick?

[Gpp]

Retired tech here. I've changed oil and filter on about 10,000 vehicles. First the engine should be thoroughly up to operating temperature just before doing an oil change. Vehicle on a level surface. Engine oil pan drain plug (with no stupid aftermarket adapter) should be unscrewed/pulled quickly, even if it's dropped into an oil drain pan AND burns one's fingers. The object is to get the oil out of the engine quickly, pulling all the dirt and other contaminants at once. Also let it drain until it is down to only drips.
Reinstall the engine's oil drain plug with one hand, having the proper wrench in the other hand. (Never install a drain plug just simply finger tight, expecting to return later.)
>Pulling oil out of the top of an engine would leave much of the dirt behind.<
When removing oil filter, look to make sure it's gasket has not been left behind (stuck) where it mounts to engine. Put clean oil on surface of new oil filter's gasket and screw on thoroughly, yet hand tightened only.

Been doing my own oil changes EXACTLY like this for about 60 years.reread this if you need two but this is definitely one of the best ways to change your oil!and keep record also!

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[Montana]

I expected some "wtf" threads on this forum, but this is next level. That said, I dated a girl that blew her engine up because she didn't know she needed to change the oil. Stretched that relationship out way longer than I should have...

 

[MaverickTopGun]

Hi, I'm going to do an early oil change(around 2k). Got my maverick 2.0 awd last month.
It seems if I want to change oil the traditional way, I have to jack up the car, then remove the underbody shield. Lots of work
Can I suck out the oil with a oil change pump from the dipstick tube(I will insert the tube as deep as possible)?
I do not need to change the oil filter with this early oil change, do I?

Yes. It's a good idea. You don't have to change the original factory oil filter out until around 10k miles or so. (I did change the oil filter on mine very early, only because I like crawling under cars and using a superior, over-sized, oil filter.)

Oil in a new-ish engine does have elevated levels of iron, aluminum, and silicone (stray seal material) fine dust floating around in it, as seen from many used oil analyses (UOA - spectrographic).

Therefore, it is a good idea to pump out ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082TNCJP8/ or other brands ) most of the oil through the dipstick.

I've done it on a Maverick and it works very well thru the dipstick.

For engine oil changes, I think you could pump out half every 3 months or 3,000 miles, and use an over-size Motorcraft FL400S or Fram FE3600 or XG3600 and leave that tough filter on for 2 years, or 20k miles (whichever comes first).

Might want to open up the drain plug every 2 or 3 years to make sure any gunk in the pan runs out.

Great for folks who don't want to crawl underneath very often and still like to avoid technicians screwing things up.

------- Similar to what some OTR truckers do using the "Centinel" Advanced Engine Oil Management System, extending oil change intervals to 525,000 miles (844,906 km) and oil filter changes to 75,000 miles (120,701 km). Well I guess those people don't like doing oil changes!

I plan on pumping out half the brake fluid, and also the eCVT fluid, both every 1 or 2 years, instead of full fluid changes. Easiest to do. Turkey baster for the brake fluid, and an oil extractor electric pump (cheap on Amazon) for the eCVT where the fill plug is simple to access.

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