Oil and filter

[Jalopy Technology]

Not entirely true about being broken in once they hit the transporter. Some vehicle makes and models are. Many are not. You'll know if it is broken in by sending an oil sample in for your first few oil changes. If the wear metals are decreasing and aren't staying flat, then it wasn't broken in before you took possession of it.

Believe me when I say you don't need any breakin procedures anymore... no driving under 50 mph, no on and off the throttle to help the rings breakin, no worries about full throttle bursts getting on the zoom way.

No breakin is needed.

The only breakin I have done is breaking in the flat tappet cams on our dirt race motors...20 minutes or so @2000 rpm.

After that it's hammer down for 1500 laps.

On a roller lifter engine we like to dyno the engine to get some baseline hp and tq numbers then send it out to race.

Call the piston rings manufacturers and ask them what they recommend for a breakin procedure...the answer will be none.

Things have changed... the old routines no longer make sense.

Yes you will continue to see metals in the oil until they are all flushed and filtered out of the system.

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[todd92]

'Hoping for a fresh perspective'

Another useless oil change thread.

Follow Ford's recommendation and change it when the IOLM monitor says to.

OR

Make up some random more frequent oil change schedule because it gives you 'peace of mind'.

 

[14mikey14]

Believe me when I say you don't need any breakin procedures anymore... no driving under 50 mph, no on and off the throttle to help the rings breakin, no worries about full throttle bursts getting on the zoom way.

No breakin is needed.

The only breakin I have done is breaking in the flat tappet cams on our dirt race motors...20 minutes or so @2000 rpm.

After that it's hammer down for 1500 laps.

On a roller lifter engine we like to dyno the engine to get some baseline hp and tq numbers then send it out to race.

Call the piston rings manufacturers and ask them what they recommend for a breakin procedure...the answer will be none.

Things have changed... the old routines no longer make sense.

Yes you will continue to see metals in the oil until they are all flushed and filtered out of the system.

I agree engines are way better than they used to be in terms of initial wear concerns. Still doesn't address longevity and how soon you have blow-by and would eventually need to do a rebuild if the oil consumption is severe. Similar issue would be to argue why should we ever change the oil then? Well, because the oil breaks down and can become an abrasive rather than a lubricant. Similar with the metals from the rings and such that if those particles are left, they are abrasives. A manufacturer of the pistons can say what they want to; there aren't warrantees on them for ring wear and such, especially in race applications. So, they can say to go full out right from the get go as the damage may not be seen until awhile down the road. At that point no one can pinpoint the failure to a lack of changing the oil early to get those wear metals out. Just like manufacturers of the vehicles stating "no need to change the transmission fluid as it is lifetime fluid". Yeah, the lifetime won't be as long as if you were to change out the fluid every 60k miles or so; this is backed by science and real-world numbers of issues with transmissions needing to be rebuilt or replaced due to the fluid not being changed and the wear metals being abrasive and the transmission fluid losing its lubricity and becoming an corrosive (albeit after a lengthy time). All depends on what you want your lifetime to be both for engines and transmissions. I recognize that race engines (in many types of different racing) aren't expected to last hundreds of thousands of miles; their lifetime is different than daily drivers and that is great and understandable. The science supports changing the oil early on certain engines and use-cases to get a longer lifetime without oil consumption/rebuild later on. A other thing to factor in is if you do have the EB engine, the same oil lubricates the turbo. There are vital passages within those as well. I appreciate your knowledge that you provided and will take it into consideration and dig further on this topic as I just love to learn. That's the only reason I shared the video of Lake Speed Jr. Good information for someone to consider and dig into if they feel so inclined. I in no way said that anyone "has to do this or no way should they do that"; it was proposed as a suggestion. If you want people to believe you as you had said, what data backs you up? What was the oil analysis? How long before you had blow-by and oil consumption on those engines? How often did you check the oil level to monitor the oil consumption or lack there of? What I'm saying is blanket statements don't make anyone seem more believable than another person. I stated that there will be anecdotal examples of not doing something and it turned out just fine or doing something and it turned out just fine. I even provided my anecdote on my Tundra. I firmly believe that if I kept it, I would easily get 400-500k from it without needing any engine work and the oil wasn't changed early. It all boils down to what each person wants the lifetime to be. If someone typically changes their vehicles every 3-5 years then they wouldn't need to worry about this oil change suggestion. If they want to try to get upwards of 20 years without burning any oil, then for this engine, it might be worthwhile. Might be, not guaranteed as there will be some that go the distance regardless.

 

[14mikey14]

'Hoping for a fresh perspective'

Another useless oil change thread.

Follow Ford's recommendation and change it when the IOLM monitor says to.

OR

Make up some random more frequent oil change schedule because it gives you 'peace of mind'.

I would suggest listening to this episode to help determine your oil change interval. And maybe watch other episodes by Lake Speed Jr or other tribologists. Just learning more about it in general so you feel as informed about your decision as you want/need to be to "know" what your oil change interval should be. There is actual science to back up what they are claiming. It isn't random. You could know very accurately when you should be changing your oil for your engine and use-case by oil sampling and looking at the results. But this is all moot if you aren't considering owning the vehicle for multiple decades and/or multiple hundreds of thousands of miles.

I know the following is heavy on the diesel engine topic, but they discuss more than just diesel. Plus, diesel is direct injection like the EB engines. There is great information about the quality of fuel and the additive packages that can help prolong the properties of the oil.

 

[14mikey14]

Assuming you mean Penzoil Ultra Platinum, it will provide plenty of protection for a 5000 mile change interval. It meets or exceeds Ford specifications for a 5w-30 and likewise for the FL-910s Motorcraft filter.

Completely agree about the oil. It also has very good cold temperature flow rate (compared to other well recommend and performing oils), which could be important in the northern areas.

 

[Jalopy Technology]

I was fortunate to attend one of Lake Speeds oil seminar around 2010-ish when he worked for Gibbs Driven oil.

Many of my friends attended, too. Most were skeptical of what he would present thinking it would be a sales pitch for his Driven brand.

Nope...not even close.

His 90 minutes was a fact based presentation...he seldom mentioned his own products. Instead he gave impartial information about oil grades, weights, hot rod oils, etc.

As a former Amsoil dealer and user I was impressed by his knowledge.

 

[Jalopy Technology]

Well it looks like I'm pretty much set for life on oil filters!

Actually I now have four vehicles that accept the same oil filter... '87 F350, '65 Dodge Coronet, '99 Grand Cherokee and the Maverick.

Should still last a couple weeks...

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