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Headlight blinker connector type

Dmat

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Does anyone know what type of connector that is. Like I know the 6 and 16 pin ones are molex but what type is the one used for the blinker.

trying to find both male and female ends.
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So the plug on the harness is the wpt-1167 connector but I cant find what the one that plugs into it is called.
Ford Maverick Headlight blinker connector type 1698630573078
 

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If you don’t have luck, you can steal them off this OPT7 Easy Connect Harness for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMFNJVCM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

That’s what I used to avoid tapping for sequentials. Took me forever to find that one, looked everywhere.
yea, im considering that and just cutting the whole thing in half for each side. was just trying to save money. They seem to be on older ford harnesses so I guess junkyards are an option.
 

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yea, im considering that and just cutting the whole thing in half for each side. was just trying to save money. They seem to be on older ford harnesses so I guess junkyards are an option.
Problem is that side is the bulb socket side, not sure you’d find one that can repurposed. What are you trying to install ?
 

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Problem is that side is the bulb socket side, not sure you’d find one that can repurposed. What are you trying to install ?
I'm trying to do all my electrical without cutting a single wire. So I want to put something between the harness and the blinker bulb to feed power/signal to the fender badge when I mess with it. Also if I add any additional lighting that needs a blinker input. if Its too much power draw, I'll put a relay in place.
 

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I'm trying to do all my electrical without cutting a single wire. So I want to put something between the harness and the blinker bulb to feed power/signal to the fender badge when I mess with it. Also if I add any additional lighting that needs a blinker input. if Its too much power draw, I'll put a relay in place.
I did exactly this. The harness gives you Left + Right + Ground, brake is unused. I used the 4 pin with an adapter to my wires, but you could just theoretically cut the 4 pin and use whatever you want. I spent ages looking for what you were, and then came across this.
You can see a video my comment history with what I wired into mine ( 2 sequential running board + hood led sequential )
 
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I did exactly this. The harness gives you Left + Right + Ground, brake is unused. I used the 4 pin with an adapter to my wires, but you could just theoretically cut the 4 pin and use whatever you want. I spent ages looking for what you were, and then came across this.
You can see a video my comment history with what I wired into mine ( 2 sequential running board + hood led sequential )
Yea, I'm not seeing any way around buying this one. From what ive found on other ford forums. I think the male end is actually 3d printed by a company and they must mass buy.
At least the 16 pin one can be had on ebay with all the pins. I've got a tool for crimping them already so I can at least make the connector for vastly less than opt7's price.
 

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My next hunt was for the bed LED harness, I want to tap that for the courtesy lighting. Connector appears to be a WPT-1116, went as far down the rabbit hole as finding the exact plug on mouser, and found what I THINK is the cable from a Ford dealer I can use.

Are you using the 16 pin to tap the headlight / DRL ? I know custom auto works makes a harness, I bought one of theirs for the side marker, but I was worried the headlight would cause the BCM to shut something off due to the draw. The sidemarker 12v would not power my 3 strips without cutting off. May try swapping that to an LED and try again, or considered a relay.

If you use a relay for anything, I would be interested in a write up of how you tackled it. I just ended up running a 12v fuse tap from the cabin fuse box to get it done for the short term, but I may end up going back and redoing it. Also considered adding connectors everywhere, so when these chinese LED strips eventually die, or I want to remove it for a Warranty issue it is easy to unplug, vs everything being soldered.
 
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My next hunt was for the bed LED harness, I want to tap that for the courtesy lighting. Connector appears to be a WPT-1116, went as far down the rabbit hole as finding the exact plug on mouser, and found what I THINK is the cable from a Ford dealer I can use.

Are you using the 16 pin to tap the headlight / DRL ? I know custom auto works makes a harness, I bought one of theirs for the side marker, but I was worried the headlight would cause the BCM to shut something off due to the draw. The sidemarker 12v would not power my 3 strips without cutting off. May try swapping that to an LED and try again, or considered a relay.

If you use a relay for anything, I would be interested in a write up of how you tackled it. I just ended up running a 12v fuse tap from the cabin fuse box to get it done for the short term, but I may end up going back and redoing it. Also considered adding connectors everywhere, so when these chinese LED strips eventually die, or I want to remove it for a Warranty issue it is easy to unplug, vs everything being soldered.
for bed lighting, I used one of the 12v bed plug. I wanted it independent of the 3rd brake light since I put LED's in those. If your meaning adding some courtesy lighting at the doors. I want to say the running lights are always on in that instance too so it might be easier to pick from one of those.

I'm planning to use the 16pin connector. if any additional load causes issues, I'll just try using a relay. ideally im hoping to not need to run a dedicated power line for these things. hoping to avoid that by minimizing the draw added to each area by spreading them out.

What someone sort of told me on here and from what ive read since. The relay would just be a power switch. you connect it to two circuits. One is the control circuit, the other is the one you add. The one you add will have its own power source with a fuse like you have. So like if I hooked it up to my blinker as the control circuit. when the blinkers turns on and off, the relay detects power and turns the other circuit on and off too. This is so I'm not putting too much draw on the existing circuit with the added lights.
 
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for bed lighting, I used one of the 12v bed plug. I wanted it independent of the 3rd brake light since I put LED's in those. If your meaning adding some courtesy lighting at the doors. I want to say the running lights are always on in that instance too so it might be easier to pick from one of those.
I am not using it for bed lighting ( at least yet ) , I installed 2 running board LED strips with running, turn and courtesy lights which are white. The bed light by the 120v on a Lariat turns on and off with courtesy lighting as well as the button next to the light, so running from this effectively enables a puddle light when unlocking the truck. that lighting is all BCM controlled, so tapping a wire by the BCM but to avoid that I want to just add a harness between the LED and the switch. Running lights are always on, and I don't want white all the time as the amber is the running light color for those strips.

I'm planning to use the 16pin connector. if any additional load causes issues, I'll just try using a relay. ideally im hoping to not need to run a dedicated power line for these things. hoping to avoid that by minimizing the draw added to each area by spreading them out.
Running the fuse tap seemed easier more cost effective at the time, that's why I did it, and the urge to do everything without waiting, as O'Riley carried the fuse tap I needed.

What someone sort of told me on here and from what ive read since. The relay would just be a power switch. you connect it to two circuits. One is the control circuit, the other is the one you add. The one you add will have its own power source with a fuse like you have. So like if I hooked it up to my blinker as the control circuit. when the blinkers turns on and off, the relay detects power and turns the other circuit on and off too. This is so I'm not putting too much draw on the existing circuit with the added lights.
Seems like you are on the same level of relay research as me, I have considered this path as well, but I think I am going to swap to LED lights on the side markers first and reinstall the harness I already have to see if this reduces draw enough to power the running board LEDS + the hood strip LED parking/running 12v wires.

Turn signals for me run the 3 strips with sequential turn signals with 0 issue, and they are still incandescent.

 

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My next hunt was for the bed LED harness, I want to tap that for the courtesy lighting. Connector appears to be a WPT-1116, went as far down the rabbit hole as finding the exact plug on mouser, and found what I THINK is the cable from a Ford dealer I can use.

Are you using the 16 pin to tap the headlight / DRL ? I know custom auto works makes a harness, I bought one of theirs for the side marker, but I was worried the headlight would cause the BCM to shut something off due to the draw. The sidemarker 12v would not power my 3 strips without cutting off. May try swapping that to an LED and try again, or considered a relay.

If you use a relay for anything, I would be interested in a write up of how you tackled it. I just ended up running a 12v fuse tap from the cabin fuse box to get it done for the short term, but I may end up going back and redoing it. Also considered adding connectors everywhere, so when these chinese LED strips eventually die, or I want to remove it for a Warranty issue it is easy to unplug, vs everything being soldered.
@Dmat @OXHB619 Do you think it's possible to replace the socket for the turn signal to get away from the 4257 and back to 3157 or 4157? It seems like the 4257 is mainly only for the newer trucks in the US market so they're harder to source.
 
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@Dmat @OXHB619 Do you think it's possible to replace the socket for the turn signal to get away from the 4257 and back to 3157 or 4157? It seems like the 4257 is mainly only for the newer trucks in the US market so they're harder to source.
So just from a quick google. It appears that the 3157 and 4257 are fairly similar in nature but do have some differences. For the 3157, there are tabs that stick out wider than on the 4257. They would have to be ground down. I've also read some people comment that the 3157 bulbs may be bigger but im not sure if thats true.

Replacing the socket could bring up issues if the opening to insert it arent the same. But otherwise I dont think anything electrical wise is different. Just form factor.
Ford Maverick Headlight blinker connector type 1702327365221
 
 







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