Aftermarket amp and deep sleep

[colinl]

What the title says. If you have an aftermarket amp, do you have issues with Deep Sleep? The truck starts fine, the battery (currently) is not at all weak, it's just going to be very annoying this winter to not be able to remote start it with Fordpass.

I have had systems in many vehicles and never killed the battery, or needed to upgrade to a gel cell. I have played at moderate to low volume (setting 6 to 12) with the ignition off probably 3 times. This has been happening about the last 5-7 days and I have a service appointment scheduled Friday.

I wouldn't be surprised if the battery was weak before delivered to me because it sat for long weeks doing SIB before it shipped, and then almost a month in the railyard before getting on a convoy truck to my dealership.

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[Alkaiser702]

Commenting mostly to follow since audio upgrade is one of my first projects when my truck gets built.

Did you tap an ignition-switched fuse for the remote signal or was it bypassed?

 

[colinl]

Commenting mostly to follow since audio upgrade is one of my first projects when my truck gets built.

Did you tap an ignition-switched fuse for the remote signal or was it bypassed?

Man, I'm glad you replied. I wouldn't have dug into this if you hadn't asked which made me investigate.

I'm using a +12V remote wire (blue) in an add-a-fuse holder piggybacked to fuse #20. Fuse 20 is listed as 'spare' but I have to admit that I just used it because someone else mentioned they used this fuse. I didn't test it to see if it's constant or switched.

I just went out to the parking lot at work and checked, and the amp is green. I unlocked the doors but did not start the ignition so it should not have been powered. Seems constant to me, unless the truck turns on switched 12V for various things (fuse #20 at least) when you approach or unlock. (It's a Lariat, you can hear a bunch of relays clicking on/off, I've always assumed this is for lock/unlock on the door handles.)

Here's the thing. I have a Kicker 500.1 amp which supports remote power-on sensing from the speaker input, but I'm not currently using it. Tonight I think I'm going to disconnect my remote wire and push the button on the amp that enables turn-on sensing.

 

[Alkaiser702]

Man, I'm glad you replied. I wouldn't have dug into this if you hadn't asked which made me investigate.

I'm using a +12V remote wire (blue) in an add-a-fuse holder piggybacked to fuse #20. Fuse 20 is listed as 'spare' but I have to admit that I just used it because someone else mentioned they used this fuse. I didn't test it to see if it's constant or switched.

I just went out to the parking lot at work and checked, and the amp is green. I unlocked the doors but did not start the ignition so it should not have been powered. Seems constant to me, unless the truck turns on switched 12V for various things (fuse #20 at least) when you approach or unlock. (It's a Lariat, you can hear a bunch of relays clicking on/off, I've always assumed this is for lock/unlock on the door handles.)

Here's the thing. I have a Kicker 500.1 amp which supports remote power-on sensing from the speaker input, but I'm not currently using it. Tonight I think I'm going to disconnect my remote wire and push the button on the amp that enables turn-on sensing.

I believe I read that fuse #6 turned on with the ignition, not sure if it works in accessory mode so that could be something to test. Let me know how it goes!

 

[colinl]

I believe I read that fuse #6 turned on with the ignition, not sure if it works in accessory mode so that could be something to test. Let me know how it goes!

I couldn't fit my piggyback / add-on fuse holder in #6 so that's why I used #20. I believe people using #6 have probably hotwired into it.

 

[Alkaiser702]

I couldn't fit my piggyback / add-on fuse holder in #6 so that's why I used #20. I believe people using #6 have probably hotwired into it.

It may depend on the tap model and size. I did find this video where someone successfully tapped it.


Best of luck!

Edit: Sorry, there was another video for this one.

 

[Lordran_Hollow]

What the title says. If you have an aftermarket amp, do you have issues with Deep Sleep? The truck starts fine, the battery (currently) is not at all weak, it's just going to be very annoying this winter to not be able to remote start it with Fordpass.

I have had systems in many vehicles and never killed the battery, or needed to upgrade to a gel cell. I have played at moderate to low volume (setting 6 to 12) with the ignition off probably 3 times. This has been happening about the last 5-7 days and I have a service appointment scheduled Friday.

I wouldn't be surprised if the battery was weak before delivered to me because it sat for long weeks doing SIB before it shipped, and then almost a month in the railyard before getting on a convoy truck to my dealership.

Hi OP!

I'm a professional technician who installs amplifiers like these for a living. I'll do my best to help out.

I noticed you mentioned you have a Kicker 500.1, I'm guessing that's the Key500.1? Regardless, Kicker's DC Offset feature (what you know as auto-turn on) is reliable and what I use on the large majority of my installs. I don't think you'll have an issue with the auto sensing features on your truck, even when considering you have the B&O system in your vehicle. On non-amped systems I know for a fact that the DC Offset in Ford vehicles shuts down after around 5 minutes, I would just check with yours to confirm (turn off the vehicle, close all of the doors, press lock if you're able to, don't open any doors and watch the status light on the kicker amp).

It also looks like you have the Ecoboost, based on your signature. You wouldn't really need to worry about an amp in this case, unless you were driving incredibly short distances while also not driving very often. Back when I worked at my old location and I had my Miata along with my 86, I would have battery issues on the 86 occasionally as I would sometimes have it sit for several days while I took the Miata to work. My aftermarket remote start and telematics unit would sip power from the battery, and the drive to work was so short that when combined with the amp, my alternator was unable to re-charge what remote start and telematics unit took up. My solution back then was to create a kill switch for my remote start.

As long as you're driving the truck regularly, and the amp is shutting off/on when needed, you'll be fine. If you truly do want a switched power source, you can try grabbing the power window wire. On Fords, this is usually what we call a "RAP" wire (Retained Accessory Power), it's what allows your Power windows and Radio to stay functional after you turn off the vehicle until you open one of the doors. On newer Fords, this wire is usually Gray/Blue (Gray wire with a Blue stripe) and will be a thicker guage than most of the other wires. Sometimes it's a Gray/Yellow, but on the Maverick I am pretty sure it's Gray/Blue. I would need to double check with AllData when I go back in to work. This wire will not be fused at your fuse box, as the power window wire uses a circuit breaker that resets itself should it get tripped.

If you do decide to hunt this wire down, a DMM (digital multimeter) is essential to make sure you have the correct wire. The wire will test at 12v when the vehicle is on, 12v after you shut it off, and then it will drop to 0v after you open any of the doors in the vehicle.

 

[Renho17]

Man, I'm glad you replied. I wouldn't have dug into this if you hadn't asked which made me investigate.

I'm using a +12V remote wire (blue) in an add-a-fuse holder piggybacked to fuse #20. Fuse 20 is listed as 'spare' but I have to admit that I just used it because someone else mentioned they used this fuse. I didn't test it to see if it's constant or switched.

I just went out to the parking lot at work and checked, and the amp is green. I unlocked the doors but did not start the ignition so it should not have been powered. Seems constant to me, unless the truck turns on switched 12V for various things (fuse #20 at least) when you approach or unlock. (It's a Lariat, you can hear a bunch of relays clicking on/off, I've always assumed this is for lock/unlock on the door handles.)

Here's the thing. I have a Kicker 500.1 amp which supports remote power-on sensing from the speaker input, but I'm not currently using it. Tonight I think I'm going to disconnect my remote wire and push the button on the amp that enables turn-on sensing.

That’s what I did with my powered sub. Did not use the remote wire, I used speaker wire input sensing. Have not had a deep sleep mode message..

 

[Red Ryder]

I have a hybrid with a Kicker Key 200.4 and a Kicker HS-10 Hideaway.

8 months later (~16,000 miles) and no power issues. They work very well, do their thing, and are invisible (except for a stealthy bass knob). No turn-on pops, no amplified chimes or any other issues that concerned me prior to starting the upgrade.

 

[colinl]

There's two large relays in the way for me to use #6 but, yes, #3 works great. My add on fuse has a 90 degree angle.

Before and after pics. I tried to rotate the images to match the orientation of the fuse panel drawing in the manual. (Which is not facing up. The top of the diagram in the manual is on the left of the panel as you face it.)

I'll monitor it overnight and tomorrow to see if the truck goes into deep sleep.

 

[Alkaiser702]

There's two large relays in the way for me to use #6 but, yes, #3 works great. My add on fuse has a 90 degree angle.

Before and after pics. I tried to rotate the images to match the orientation of the fuse panel drawing in the manual. (Which is not facing up. The top of the diagram in the manual is on the left of the panel as you face it.)

I'll monitor it overnight and tomorrow to see if the truck goes into deep sleep.

I'm still learning from your (and everyone else's) journey in upgrading the sound system. How has the deep sleep been since the last update?

 

[colinl]

I'm still learning from your (and everyone else's) journey in upgrading the sound system. How has the deep sleep been since the last update?

It went into deep sleep once, around 4AM Friday (yesterday). The rest of the time nothing, versus literally every time I shut off the truck. I'd say it's fixed but the battery might still be a bit weak. We will see...

 

[zach57x]

I have a hybrid with a Kicker Key 200.4 and a Kicker HS-10 Hideaway.

8 months later (~16,000 miles) and no power issues. They work very well, do their thing, and are invisible (except for a stealthy bass knob). No turn-on pops, no amplified chimes or any other issues that concerned me prior to starting the upgrade.

Where did you mount the sub and amp?

 

[Red Ryder]

Where did you mount the sub and amp?

I mounted the Key 200.4 behind the glovebox, here is a thread detailing that installation:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...cket-to-mount-key-lc2i-behind-glovebox.13078/

The HS-10 sub behind the rear seat:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...p-board-to-back-cabin-wall.13013/#post-286687


Bass Knob in dash:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...kicker-remote-bass-level-knob-mounting.14878/

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