There are six metal fasteners to hold the door card or door panel in place. Five of them are fairly obvious, but the sixth is hidden behind a red reflector.
Several excellent videos are available that show you how to remove the door cards in order to install speakers or sound baffling, etc...
I would suggest two alternatives to remove the deceased status from your TU credit profile.
Expensive: Engage legal counsel, specifically an attorney that specializes in financial matters. A lawyer that works closely with a local CPA who is also a CFP can almost certainly solve this for you...
I agree that charging at home is the real-world scenario.
The public charging question is a whole different scenario, and I am sure that for people who live in apartments, it is a significant issue.
My point is that the power infrastructure of the US grid as a whole is old, creaky and...
The article is based on a study that makes certain assumptions, not all of which pertain to the reality most of us inhabit.
One of the underlying concerns that it fails to address is that in the US, but most especially in Texas, the public utilities have not invested in ""maintenance and...
Hybrid poverty spec truck built in 09/2023, took delivery 09/30/2023.
140 total miles so far, as the truck has been sitting in the garage. We have been doing the usual things - deep clean, ceramic coating, wrap, installing sound baffling, fixing the headliner, etc. - that you do when you get a...
These weird bulges in the weather stripping on the passenger side doors were obvious problems to me when I took these pictures on delivery.
After putting things back together, the bulges are still there.
I am leery about using a heat gun on them, which is what the Service Manager at the...
I applied 303 to the white plastic cladding that is on the A-, B-, and C-pillars, and after a couple of days, no color issues. The plastic is a little glossier, but otherwise no different.
My theory is that 303 might provide a small amount of scratch protection to the soft, recycled plastics...
If I had a steady hand and the headliner out of the truck, it would have been tempting to use it along with the edge guard.
But with the headliner inside the cab, I would likely have ended up with Fray Check decorating other parts of the cabin as well.
Here is the interior side of the rubber grommet on the rear panel / cab corner. It is on the driver's side about a foot inboard.
My impression was that the pass-through of electrical cabling would be easy. I planned to remove the aero cover underneath, and that would give me easy access to...
Sun visor hole in the headliner, with the electrical connection:
The metal screw end is toward the windshield, and the tongue is toward the cabin.
A T-20 Torx metal screw holds it in place, same as the latch plate inboard.
This cover snaps off and back on. Use a CLEAN pry tool to remove it.
I went out and got some Fray Check, and here is what it looks like.
In the end, I went with the edge guard solution rather than the Fray Check because I didn't take the headliner out of the truck, and I didn't think I could successfully apply the Fray Check to the edges. Here is the sort of...
Yes, the weather stripping around the CMHSL is flexible and soft.
I think that no matter what you plan to do with the camera, that bracket will need to be bent or adjusted to a new angle suitable for your application.
None of the obvious external mounting positions with the existing...
I am interested to learn more about your plan to install a dash cam in the CMHSL. Do you plan to cut a hole in the fixture, or mount the camera inside the fixture?
Here are some photographs of that area and the light fixture itself.
I am testing the application of 303 to the top, white-colored plastic trim that touches the headliner.
303 works well on the dark-colored plastics below that throughout the interior (and also the exterior plastics on the Maverick).
My theory is that 303 will help a little bit to reduce...
The drip rail bed has several indentations in addition to the bolt holes used to attach the rails to the roof.
I don't know anything about racks, but here is a shot of the member that connects the two B-pillars. It seems empty of critical components.
There is a stack of different metal...
Here is a look down the rail bed from the back of the cab, featuring the bolt that stayed in place in the back corner.
When removing the rail, the front bolts come out of the roof at a bit of an angle, and you need to work them out carefully.
Here is the location of the front bolt, inside...
The drip rails use a total of eight 10-mm bolts as fasteners in the roof. My impression from reading the Ford technical documents was that it was just four, two fore and two aft of the B-pillar brace. But in fact, there are four more, one on each corner as well.
Seven of the 10-mil nuts came...