Those most likely have a built in bass blocker/crossover built into that line. That's what that box thing is. You'll need it otherwise you'll blow up your tweeters.
Well if you knew someone, hint that's me, who could build you a custom made plug and play harness so you can mount that amp and whatever in the rear of the truck behind the seats would be ideal in my opinion.
I'm the audio vendor here so please feel free to reach out with questions. If you have the amplifier in the back that means it's the B&O system and there isn't any easy way to improve the audio until you bypass the system using either a NavTV or PAC unit. I have both in stock.
Sounds more like a high level input issue where you might have it in low level and it's boosting the signal making it hot. If tapping the rear speakers you're providing a high level signal so push the button to high level and adjust the gain so the red light turns off. The gain is not a volume...
Factory speaker use roughly 7 watts of power and have a crazy sensitivity hence why they can play loudly but not great. You can buy high sensitivity speakers that can also handle additional power if you amplify them. All aftermarket speakers come with massive magnets that requires power to move...
So far I'm finding the only thing different is how the rear speakers are setup. All of the connectors are the same as the F150 so my harnesses should work fine. I'm waiting on my 24 model so when that happens I'll be making my own power/signal/sub kits in the near future.
I've heard many systems and the factory F150/Maverick systems are some of the worst in my opinion. Even open air Jeep factory systems sound significantly better. Kia, Infinity, Nissan, Mazda, VW, Toyota, GMC, and many others offer way better factory sounding systems. This is why I mainly only...
I build custom wiring harnesses if that was your question. They are meant to get the signal from the head unit and provide them to any amp/DSP of your choosing. My harnesses are plug and play for the most part. Usually you'll have to wire in power/ground and remote if the amp doesn't offer...
If anyone needs Kicker amps, custom made harnesses, subs, Skar stuff, etc. I'm an approved retailer for all of them and a forum vendor here for you all. Please let me know how I can help.
I do but hardly ever use it. I've been on multiple forums as a vendor for years if there was any concern about the legitimacy of my company. Please feel free to Google Hush Car Audio for reviews. I no longer maintain a website as it was way too much work for this one man army. Did you have any...
Close cell foam is usually what's used as a decoupler. The vibration dampener shown in the images certainly help with reducing the vibrations that occur in those areas. Using both products would be even better in my opinion. If anyone is interested, I sell Second Skin sound deadening products...
Perhaps I should have broken that paragraph in half. I meant that the factory standard system only has 7 watts. The B&O system is amplified so of course it should offer more power for aftermarket speakers. The only issue with the B&O system is that you really won't get nearly the full potential...
It's not too late and a new system doesn't have to cost thousands of dollars. A PAC bypass unit costs $439, Kicker Key amp $279, Morel Maximo Ultra 602 MKII $289, coax set $189, and depending on your bass needs it goes from there. This would get you a vastly improved sound over the B&O system. A...