Sponsored

Search results

  1. Full audio upgrade complete

    I hope you guys know I'm the audio forum vendor here and can build you custom harnesses. Let me know if interested. I've been making them for the F150 guys for over 8 years now.
  2. Overlooked Subwoofer Problem(especially with hybrid)(Nerd Stuff)

    Not sure how it is on Mavericks yet but on F150s the rear signals are capped and front channels are full range.
  3. My stereo upgrade process in Maverick XL

    I have a bunch of Kicker Keylocs in stock if you need some. To retain fader you'll want to use two of them.
  4. Sound deadening when doing an audio upgrade.

    Sound deadening is often times miss understood. Many people see vibration dampeners such as Dynamat, etc. Vibration dampeners are really good for mitigating vibrations normally caused by bass. If you are not pushing much in the way of bass then you should be installing something that will...
  5. Factory integration stereo wiring harnesses

    For people having issues with tapping the remote turn on I would suggest to use a relay instead. This way you will avoid any potential issues with the system firing off random pulses.
  6. Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution.

    I come from working on a ton of F150s which are very similar to this platform. We've tried everything with regards to working around the B&O system to get better audio quality with failed results. The best method still is to use a bypass unit. Just trying to save people time and aggravation.
  7. Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution.

    B&O guys will need a bypass unit from NavTV or PAC to get around the processing. I have both in stock.
  8. Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution.

    I use to love collecting magazines haha. We are all getting way too old.
  9. Blaupunkt compact subwoofer won't work?

    Crutchfield experts have been wrong on so many occasions.
  10. Kicker HS10 vs traditional underseat sub

    Any of those powered units will more likely sound like midbass fill rather than punchy bass. Get any sub in a ported enclosure for nearly twice the bass output. A full sized sub will offer way more excursion than shallow subs. More air movement means more bass. Hope this info helps.
  11. Radio replacement kit in the works

    On my dealer login Metra shows it to still be in production but not released yet. The MSRP is $999.99.
  12. Aftermarket coaxial speakers fry the system?

    Just wondering what car audio amp is putting out 8 ohms though?
  13. Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution.

    You also could have used two of these https://www.skaraudio.com/products/evl-1x65d4-v-lp-low-profile-6-5inch-400-watt-loaded-vented-subwoofer-enclosure along with an Audio Control acm-2.300 for a lot more bass output. I believe these would fit in the storage compartments. I've yet to test fit...
  14. PowerBass OE65C-FD - 6.5" Plug and play Tweeter confusion.

    Tweeters are where most of the improvements are heard so I'd install them if I were you.
  15. Plug and play powered sub

    I build plug and play harnesses and the forum audio vendor here. I can help if interested.
  16. The stock audio system is great, actually. Here's why.

    Plenty of online shops and vendors like me that still offer services and parts. The B&O system needs a bypass unit and there are two popular plug and play units available now. I've helped hundreds of people install their systems remotely. Let me know if I can help do the same for you.
  17. Adding amp. What LOC should I use?

    The Key amps do not need any LOC to work. They have built in DSP that handle everything. They accept high level inputs so if you had a plug and play harness like the ones I build then it's super easy to install.
  18. Adding amp. What LOC should I use?

    $215 LC7i $165 Dayton 408 DSP Which would you think offer more control and will make your truck sound way better? Even if you don't want to learn how to tune then you can pick up this instead and tune it with the push of one button. $279 Kicker Key 200.4 amp and built in auto tuning DSP So...




Top