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Not all cars use HSS in that location. The challenge is for a MAVERICK, not "any" car...

No, all that, and FDRS, does is cycle the ABS solenoids. So, a small amount of fluid will remain during a normal flush, thus the importance of staying on schedule with maintenance. It's also a good idea to *safely* cycle the ABS in a slippery parking lot after a snow fall... this pushes fresh...

Whatever you decide, a thorough pre-purchase test drive is a really good idea.... 😉

A bottle of DOT4 ULV is ~$20 (check the expiration date), if you have DIY ability, save yourself some money.

Brake fluid maintenance is based on time, not mileage. 3 years is the industry standard. I do every two because it's cheap & easy, and internal corrosion is mostly invisible until it isn't. Just make sure they use DOT4 ULV for optimum ABS performance.

Based on the information you have provided, save your money.

I would love to see proof of a flattened side sill pinch weld on a Maverick....

It depends on the unit body structure & design, as to whether it will have separate FR and/or RR subframes (which typically have a jack point). Not all Honda/Toyotas do either.

That pinch weld is multi-layer high strength steel the length of the body.....it would be damn near impossible to flatten it.

Generally with tools, you get what you pay for. I have a lot of 18V Makitas, so commonizing is smart use of batteries & chargers. It fits perfectly in the cubby under the rear seat of the Mav, and in my cargo bin in the Bronco. Like I said earlier, when you're refilling 35" tires, you need...

You really don't need pads for the jack stands, they should go directly against the pinch welds. I've been using a piece of oak for 20+ years as a load spreader for my jack, it's unphased.

That's great...a little over-kill, but erroring on the side of safety is wise. A simpler/faster approach is a ~36" 2x4/6 placed at the center of the truck on the sill pinch weld, then jack the whole side at once, place your jack stands at the marked locations.

It comes with a clip-on adapter. And when you are airing up 35" tires (my Bronco), you will appreciate it being "too big"... 😉

Here is your benchmark:

OEM rear pads are 40 bucks on RockAuto, and it's a 30-40 min job in your driveway.... Why are so many willing to bend over & take it from shady dealers???😱

There are many factors to consider here, but the industry statistics reveal you will lose financially, about 80% of the time, on an extended warranty. This is why mfg'rs and others love selling them, high predictable profits. However, if you are the type who can't sleep worrying about out of...

Yes, I was listening to a financial show....might have been Dave Ramsey, not sure... but the industry average seems to be about 80/20 in favor of the warranty seller, meaning, only ~20% of the time, will you come out ahead, financially, on the purchase of a long term auto policy.

I would say you have damaged suspension component(s), and/or alignment is bumped out of spec. Time to find a reputable alignment shop.... I put 65K on my OEM AT3W's, rotated every 5-10K, perfect wear patterns, FYI...

Values are easy to find for your area, with all the online retailers. Keep an eye on them, as they change weekly. You can also "test the waters" for free on Carmigo, if you are interested. It's really no mystery anymore, with all the online info. You know what will work for you, so determine...

20K seems unusually short. Hard to say what might cause it, but generally, the rear pads have about half the pad material as the fronts, when new. And the EPB will cause accelerated wear on the rears. That said, I just changed the rear pads on my '22, 65K miles, still had about 2-3mm left...