ForScan Flat EQ before key200.4?

[TonyMontana214]

I am planning on installing my 200.4 key and hs10 kicker. Someone on my facebook mentioned that I need to set the EQ to flat by using the ForScan.

I thought we could set the EQ flat through the headunit settings. I have the forscan but if i can avoid messing with more settings than i have to i would.

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[bautek_mn]

Not an expert on what you can disable in FORScan or how the factory radio tweaks things. In a lot of modern cars the signal is still stepped on when the user-accessible EQ sliders are set flat and stuff like speed-sensitive volume is disabled.

The factory radio might remove low frequencies from the rear speakers, apply a "hidden" EQ to remove frequencies that distort or sound weird with the cheap factory speakers, etc.

An alternative to modifying software is something like the Kicker KEYLOC. If you follow the instructions and the vehicle isn't doing anything too exotic it's supposed to provide a pretty decent line-out and 14v trigger for your amps.

I used one in my truck and don't have any complaints. My setup is:
- KEYLOC getting signal from the front speaker outs in the factory harness
- KEYLOC sending line signal and 12v trigger to a Key 200.4 and HS10 behind the rear seats
- Key 200.4 set to bi-amp and driving a set of Kicker QS components split between the front door and dash. Dash tweeters are driven directly with new speaker wire, doors are driven with speaker wire running back to the factory harness where I chopped for the KEYLOC

One thing that kinda sucks in the factory settings: you can't completely fade out the rear speakers and need to physically disconnect them during the Key calibration.

 

[colinl]

the keyloc is a pretty incredible device and it probably will fix anything related to filtering, equalization and time alignment/phase as long as you use the LF and RF speakers as inputs. it is a lot better than trying to use only the speaker-level input on the key 200.4.

forscan audio settings are under section 727 / ACIM if you want to experiment. if you do, please come back here and report your findings. someone has done this, but they aren't talking about it that I've seen. I have not done it because I am using the factory B&O amp, so I don't need to tweak these values.
Maverick Forscan Reference Sheet

 

[TonyMontana214]

the keyloc is a pretty incredible device and it probably will fix anything related to filtering, equalization and time alignment/phase as long as you use the LF and RF speakers as inputs. it is a lot better than trying to use only the speaker-level input on the key 200.4.

forscan audio settings are under section 727 / ACIM if you want to experiment. if you do, please come back here and report your findings. someone has done this, but they aren't talking about it that I've seen. I have not done it because I am using the factory B&O amp, so I don't need to tweak these values.
Maverick Forscan Reference Sheet

One person in my group shared this. Does the information seem legit to use?

 

[Droid82]

I never did that in my f150 when I had the 200.4 and the 500.1. Those dsps are amazing

 

[TonyMontana214]

I didnt think it would be a requirement but the user did make a solid arguement than its basic 101 to flatten out the eqs when installing any audio hardware. I think im going to leave it alone. Just wanted to see if anyone else had done it.

 

[rallyshark]

I will be trying out flattening the factory equalization with forscan this weekend, and I'll report back.

 

[TonyMontana214]

I will be trying out flattening the factory equalization with forscan this weekend, and I'll report back.

Oo definitely let us know. This would be solid info.

 

[colinl]

One person in my group shared this. Does the information seem legit to use?

727-01-02 on the sheet appears to be completely different values. I'm not sure that is applicable to the Maverick with Ford Connected Audio and I think it's probably from an F150 or Bronco, but I'm just speculating.

I believe that you probably only have an option for 0 or 1, like the sheet shows:

727-07-02	x*xx	xxxx	xx--	0 =	EQSM Not configured		2 =	EQSM Flat EQ
				1 =	EQSM No Special Mode		5 =	EQSM Flashed EQ File Mode

 

[TonyMontana214]

727-01-02 on the sheet appears to be completely different values. I'm not sure that is applicable to the Maverick with Ford Connected Audio and I think it's probably from an F150 or Bronco, but I'm just speculating.

I believe that you probably only have an option for 0 or 1, like the sheet shows:

727-07-02	x*xx	xxxx	xx--	0 =	EQSM Not configured		2 =	EQSM Flat EQ
				1 =	EQSM No Special Mode		5 =	EQSM Flashed EQ File Mode

This is why i wanted to bring this up in this forum. I noticed that many values look similar between f150/bronco/maverick/ect. I havent personally digged into the forscan files so i cant confirm the image i shared or what you said about the 2 values.

 

[rallyshark]

Yep, that's why I said I'll be "trying" to flatten it, because I don't know which one is going to work Hopefully, I'll be able to get one of the different methods found online to work though.

 

[rallyshark]

I have an update! I decided to run out and look, and ended up going down the rabbit hole with my DSP after I made a change in Forscan. It turns this flat EQ thing may be way easier than some of us feared. The EQ Flat setting is in the ACM Module configuration "easy mode", so you don't have to go into the "as built" section and look for the right numbers etc.. Just go to the one below the "as built" section, and it is listed in the list along with a few others. Obviously, there's a lot more options in the "as built" section, but this may do the trick.

I say may do the trick, because I didn't have time to properly test it or look in the "as built" format section. What I can tell you is that the factory head unit is no longer chopping bass off below 35hz. That part alone made my night. I did some test tones, and my sub is playing 20hz through the head unit with no issues now. From what I can tell in quick testing the bass sounds normal now, whereas before, I had to tweak my DSP to the max to get it close to normal sounding. I don't really have a way to test the actual EQ curve straight from the head unit and show it. I'd need a way to capture/display the signal(or know how to), but I can only get speaker measurements. Speaker measurements aren't going to show the true curve, since they will have their own response colorations.

Anyway, I hope that helps. Oh, and I have the base stereo, fwiw. I attached pics to help

 

[TonyMontana214]

I have an update! I decided to run out and look, and ended up going down the rabbit hole with my DSP after I made a change in Forscan. It turns this flat EQ thing may be way easier than some of us feared. The EQ Flat setting is in the ACM Module configuration "easy mode", so you don't have to go into the "as built" section and look for the right numbers etc.. Just go to the one below the "as built" section, and it is listed in the list along with a few others. Obviously, there's a lot more options in the "as built" section, but this may do the trick.

I say may do the trick, because I didn't have time to properly test it or look in the "as built" format section. What I can tell you is that the factory head unit is no longer chopping bass off below 35hz. That part alone made my night. I did some test tones, and my sub is playing 20hz through the head unit with no issues now. From what I can tell in quick testing the bass sounds normal now, whereas before, I had to tweak my DSP to the max to get it close to normal sounding. I don't really have a way to test the actual EQ curve straight from the head unit and show it. I'd need a way to capture/display the signal(or know how to), but I can only get speaker measurements. Speaker measurements aren't going to show the true curve, since they will have their own response colorations.

Anyway, I hope that helps. Oh, and I have the base stereo, fwiw. I attached pics to help

Thats awesome! Im running into issues with my key200.4. I have everything connected, a power cable ran and its properly grounded. Whenever the amp is set to "12v" direct, it works fine. When i srt it to "auto turn on" it never fires upmwhen i turn the key.

 

[rallyshark]

Thats awesome! Im running into issues with my key200.4. I have everything connected, a power cable ran and its properly grounded. Whenever the amp is set to "12v" direct, it works fine. When i srt it to "auto turn on" it never fires upmwhen i turn the key.

I would HIGHLY recommend running a turn lead for the key200.4. There's a couple different fuses you can use that are accessory turn on. I used number 6 myself. If you use the auto sense, the amp will turn on any time the truck is unlocked or a door is open. The factory radio sends voltage through the speaker wires all the time without the radio being on and will kill the battery.

 

[TonyMontana214]

I would HIGHLY recommend running a turn lead for the key200.4. There's a couple different fuses you can use that are accessory turn on. I used number 6 myself. If you use the auto sense, the amp will turn on any time the truck is unlocked or a door is open. The factory radio sends voltage through the speaker wires all the time without the radio being on and will kill the battery.

Im assuming thats the blue wire? I know im already using a add-a-fuse for my dash cam. Ima need to find another suitable fuse.

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