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Anyone tapped factory bed light to power aftermarket under-rail LEDs?

dcs12345

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Telemachus

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Running DC low voltage and AC 110V in the same cable/connector would be an NEC no no for a building.

Thank goodness this baby is on wheels.

Thanks, much appreciated!
 

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Very much so. I'll drop the spare tire and take a look at the connector and get a feel for it. Most likely we can add the molex connectors needed to pull the power for the switch and the bed lights without having to tap any wires at all.
 

dcs12345

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Very much so. I'll drop the spare tire and take a look at the connector and get a feel for it. Most likely we can add the molex connectors needed to pull the power for the switch and the bed lights without having to tap any wires at all.
That would be interesting for sure. I have a simple light and a push button switch that I plan on using in the bed. This would be great so I could turn it on without the key
 
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Telemachus

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Looks like it does, yes
1675899736752.png


The diagram I have for that C404 connector doesn't really plain language say what each pin goes to, just circuit abbreviations (CPL22, VLN37, etc)
I'll probe pins 28 and 29 and see if the 110v from my onboard inverter is actually there. I assume the ground pin on the AC outlet is just grounded to Chassis? It's not on the circuit diagrams.
 

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Telemachus

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That would be interesting for sure. I have a simple light and a push button switch
Yes, but do tapping into this power source and switch will give you factory protection against over discharge and light without the key in ignition, as well as turning on the overhead cargo light.

At least that is my hope.
 

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I'll probe pins 28 and 29 and see if the 110v from my onboard inverter is actually there. I assume the ground pin on the AC outlet is just grounded to Chassis? It's not on the circuit diagrams.
Since it's a vehicle on tires I don't think there really is a 'ground'. I recall someone else had noted this: Inverter Weirdnes
 

dcs12345

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Yes, but do tapping into this power source and switch will give you factory protection against over discharge and light without the key in ignition, as well as turning on the overhead cargo light.

At least that is my hope.
Exactly what we were hoping for.
I hope the wiring is easy enough.
 

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18 guage wire... I guess it's never carrying more than 4amps... But still tiny for AC!

Ford Maverick Anyone tapped factory bed light to power aftermarket under-rail LEDs? Screenshot_20230208_161849_Samsung Notes
 

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Also there's no guarantee that the wiring to C404 is present in the preceding harness back without the Luxury Package. In which case you might need to run all the way from/to the BCM.
 
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Telemachus

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Also there's no guarantee that the wiring to C404 is present in the preceding harness back without the Luxury Package. In which case you might need to run all the way from/to the BCM.
If I am reading the diagram correctly, it wyes off of the power is going to the outlet that already exists in the cab.

So I don't think I would have to wire all the way back to the bcm, just the inverter.
 

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If I am reading the diagram correctly, it wyes off of the power is going to the outlet that already exists in the cab.

So I don't think I would have to wire all the way back to the bcm, just the inverter.
I meant for the cargo light (particularly the switch circuit) if that isn't present. Although getting to the inverter is no small feat either given it's underneath the center console.
 

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I meant for the cargo light (particularly the switch circuit) if that isn't present. Although getting to the inverter is no small feat either given it's underneath the center console.
Agreed. And agreed.

Lack of power there could also mean it just needs to be turned on in forscan.

Power to the tailgate actuator for door locks was there automatically without any BCM programming changes.

Keeping my fingers crossed.
 

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Lack of power there could also mean it just needs to be turned on in forscan.

Power to the tailgate actuator for door locks was there automatically without any BCM programming changes.
The BCM should put out power since it's the same circuit as the third brake light assembly cargo light.
 

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The BCM should put out power since it's the same circuit as the third brake light assembly cargo light.
I agree.

I'm more worried about putting out power to the switch... or the BCM reading the grounding of the switch.

I could tap into the cargo light without much of a problem, and get tailgate lighting briefly with the unlock button on the keyfob.

The switch is what makes it a lot more useful.
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