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Maverick Man

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Well I came up with a question: Google say's replacement hybrid batteries could be $2000-$3200 yet many people are going to say Costco and getting a AGM battery for maybe $300? I'm obviously missing something.
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ScottyC

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Well I came up with a question: Google say's replacement hybrid batteries could be $2000-$3200 yet many people are going to say Costco and getting a AGM battery for maybe $300? I'm obviously missing something.
The battery in question is the one located inside the cab under the passenger side rear seat - is a 12V battery designed to operate the electronics of the vehicle. You are confusing the hybrid battery that is located under the cab that powers the hybrid drive system associated with the powertrain of the the vehicle. Totally different battery.
 

Mavster Mechanic

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3 yrs 8 months old.
A little under 60k miles.
Original stock FLA battery.
Got first ever case of doors would not open with key fob. After 8 hours parked following a 1 hour drive. 90°F outside.

Opened with key. Burglar alarm goes off. Key fob could not silence alarm. Put key in ignition. Dash lights up. Twisted to run. Ding ding ding and "Stop Safely Now" message while never leaving park.

Turned off. Got small lithium jump pack out. Truck started and ran normally.
DC/DC sent 65 Amps charging into the 12v battery for ~15 minutes. Tapered to 44 amps. Then tapered all the way down to 1 amp trickle at the 1 hour mark.

950 watts of 12v battery charging.
Most I've seen by 3x.

IMG_7598.webp

IMG_7599.webp

IMG_7600.webp
 

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Mavster Mechanic

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Put it on a smart charger overnight while DISCONNECTED FROM TRUCK for 12 hours.

My truck needs no 9 hours of park with doors locked or any high beams flashing to relearn. Must look at resting voltage which was now -12.6


A handful of minutes after reconnecting this:
IMG_7605.webp

Started my AM commute and soon this:

IMG_7606.webp

Note the distinct DC/DC voltage drop that @HeyBales was talking about.
 

Mavster Mechanic

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One anomaly after disconnecting and reconnecting the 12v battery.

Truck starting running the air conditioner with the A/C button not on.
Did it three times. I could shut the whole climate system off. But I could not get just plain outside air ventilation.

My truck did this when factory new and there are lots of folks who report this same phenomenon. It's NOT due to high humidity. I'm in a desert climate currently. 50 to 60% morning humidity and 25% afternoon outside humidity.

My truck does not do this usually.
It's a glitch that goes away in due time.
 

Finnster

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I’d like to take a moment to thank the Ford Maverick Truck Club’s A Team! The select handful on this site who possess the skill, knowledge, and kindness to share critical information and data with those of us who are not as gifted!
Thank you guys so much! You guys are the best! You are the thin blue line that keeps me from occasionally wanting to torch my Ford Maverick hybrid!:beer:
 

HeyBales

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HELP!!! I feel dumb asking but I thought the app notifications that the batter is in sleep mode had to do with the front, under the hood batter and NOT the under the backseat hybrid batter.
And just to also clarify - the battery isn't in sleep mode.
(sleep mode is normal for the truck's systems, after 60-75 min of turn off and last door closed)

The battery reached a line that the battery management system figure's isn't good - so it kills the modem that talks to Ford that talks to your app.
The system is in deep sleep mode then - so it draws less battery power, not a whole lot less, but it could stop something from going off the rails on the truck or Ford's side, making a low battery worse.
Prior to that the system was likely in battery saver mode - again to draw less battery power when you open doors and lights turn off quicker.
All this to allow battery to keep starting the truck - which is required to get any of the wimpy charging to happen.

Keep reading posts - you'll hear about plenty of owners with months of battery saver or even DSM state starting just fine. Until they take it to dealer and it's finally bad enough for warranty replacement.

Also - if you haven't looked under back seat, suggest looking there and behind back seat if you haven't used the jack yet.
The more you know....
 

johnDeere

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Put it on a smart charger overnight while DISCONNECTED FROM TRUCK for 12 hours.

My truck needs no 9 hours of park with doors locked or any high beams flashing to relearn. Must look at resting voltage which was now -12.6


A handful of minutes after reconnecting this:
IMG_7605.webp

Started my AM commute and soon this:

IMG_7606.webp

Note the distinct DC/DC voltage drop that @HeyBales was talking about.

I have seen this every time after about 5 minutes when the SOC is over 90%.
If you battery is a flooded or AGM that voltage is not close to charging or floating voltage for these batteries.
I found you can fool the system, and place the cabin fan above 5 and it will start charging.
Can anyone verify this with there truck too?
With a SOC of 100% as shown, and your other post telling how long you had the battery on a charger, that number could be correct.
But it would be nice if the voltage was higher than a standing voltage. 12.8
I bet before you took that picture, it showed negative amps until the voltage came down to 12.8 V.
 
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HeyBales

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Hybrid.
3 yrs 8 months old.
A little under 60k miles.
Original stock FLA battery.
Got first ever case of doors would not open with key fob. After 8 hours parked following a 1 hour drive. 90°F outside.

Opened with key. Burglar alarm goes off. Key fob could not silence alarm. Put key in ignition. Dash lights up. Twisted to run. Ding ding ding and "Stop Safely Now" message while never leaving park.

Turned off. Got small lithium jump pack out. Truck started and ran normally.
DC/DC sent 65 Amps charging into the 12v battery for ~15 minutes. Tapered to 44 amps. Then tapered all the way down to 1 amp trickle at the 1 hour mark.

950 watts of 12v battery charging.
Most I've seen by 3x.

IMG_7598.webp

IMG_7599.webp

IMG_7600.webp
Wow!
Proves the BMS charging does have the ability to ramp it up massively - it could take care of things better. (some posts have said it doesn't have the ability to charge very high)
After my 20k maintenance/inspection, with doors open & closed a few times, or left open a few times, truck never made it to sleep mode, something was always coming back online.
I wonder if you got hit with a parasitic drain. Wonder if AC related since seeing a difference now.

My BMS Ford SOC was down to 41% from mid-50's. 175 day old warranty bigger battery.
BMS logged cumulative discharge was 22 Ah (rounded 18 & 4), charge was 21 Ah. So only 1-2 Ah off. (not sure if rounded, or like one Amp PID, only whole number displayed)
(recently had another event, off by 3-4 Ah).
My BMS was inspired to only throw 30A at the 12VB - so yours at 22 to 65% was way off.
Nice night - so I drove the LONG way home, checking out some bike routes to be used soon. Instead of just sitting in driveway.
Stayed above 19A for 4.6 minutes and SOC was 45%. (Purely calculated value at that point since voltage reading impossible.)
Stayed above 9A for another 7.5 minutes and SOC was 49%.
Stayed above 2A for another 19.2 minutes and SOC was 53%.
Finished with the normal drop from 2A to below 1A trickle charge for another 18.6 minutes, SOC 55%.
So a total 50 min drive got my SOC from 41 to 55%. About where it had started.
Cumulative discharge still rounded 18 & 4, and charge at 21 Ah. So minor change.
I'm guessing it was more like 21.4 Ah vs 17.5 & 3.5 or abouts. Wish I could see the tenths digit.

Next morning at 12 F, 11.9 V before start, and SOC 52%.
For anyone that wants fun with numbers - I can provide the .csv - big 12MB.

I'll be curious how long it takes for your SOC to get back to 85%, despite some charging Amps likely still going to 12VB. I think you've mentioned you have caught neg A in charging field.
 

Maverick Man

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And just to also clarify - the battery isn't in sleep mode.
(sleep mode is normal for the truck's systems, after 60-75 min of turn off and last door closed)

The battery reached a line that the battery management system figure's isn't good - so it kills the modem that talks to Ford that talks to your app.
The system is in deep sleep mode then - so it draws less battery power, not a whole lot less, but it could stop something from going off the rails on the truck or Ford's side, making a low battery worse.
Prior to that the system was likely in battery saver mode - again to draw less battery power when you open doors and lights turn off quicker.
All this to allow battery to keep starting the truck - which is required to get any of the wimpy charging to happen.

Keep reading posts - you'll hear about plenty of owners with months of battery saver or even DSM state starting just fine. Until they take it to dealer and it's finally bad enough for warranty replacement.

Also - if you haven't looked under back seat, suggest looking there and behind back seat if you haven't used the jack yet.
The more you know....
Thanks 👍
 

Mavster Mechanic

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Continuing....

Parked 8 hours after charging to 99-100%. Came out to this:

IMG_7613.webp

Charging 12 amps starting at 87%.
Tapered down quickly and stopped at:
IMG_7615.webp

Stayed at 89% and 14.4 to 14.5 volts for the next 1 hour. Voltage never dropped to 12.8. But charging current was either zero or too little to measure.
IMG_7616.webp

Almost exactly 1 hour with key-on.
The moment key went off 12.1 volt.
Just dome light on and parking lamps and dash.
11 amp load.

Is it weird HV battery was still showing 1.2 amps draw with key off? Was literally seconds after key turn. Maybe there is a ramp down or sequence to shutdown that takes a few seconds.

IMG_7617.webp
 

Mavster Mechanic

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After parking 12 hours, stock battery was showing 12.4v with just the dome light on.

Purchased an H4 AGM from WalMart.
4 year free replacement (not pro-rated) warranty. $189

Manuf. 1/26. Resting voltage of the AGM was 13.1v.

Noco Genius 5 on AGM setting indicated the off the shelf battery was between 75% and 100%. It is now charging it at 14.1v 20 minutes into the bench charge.
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