New Member. 2025 Lobo - Update Tint, Subs, and Coil Overs Installed.

[truknbass]

Great project, looks really nice and I'm looking forward to the next updates ... I've always wondered how the MDF speaker baffle gets attached to the molded fiberglass box

I create a card board template of the inside of the box as close as possible. Then move the template to my 5/8ths mdf and cut. That part took me a few hours to get right. Once cut into shape, I'll use screws to hold it in place in box. Then I'll glass it into place while fixing other issues. To be sure it's not coming apart, I'll mix some resin with body filler together to make it thicker but still a runny mixture. Some people call it a milkshake. Add activator and dump into box. Rock box all around the edges to fill any cracks. once glass is cured, I'll angle grind off the screw heads off. The box is around 8 or 9 layers of weave and 4 layers of chop matte. It should be thick enough for my application so not worried about thin spots. Body work will fix any other issues. I'm at the part where I need to think about how to wire it up but I'd like it so you can't see any wires.

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[Maverick123]

... I'm at the part where I need to think about how to wire it up but I'd like it so you can't see any wires.

Thanks for the detailed explanation, I get it now!

To hide the wiring could you make a cover out of acrylic or thin MDF that sits flush around the amp's heat sink, and covers the dip where the amp is installed? All your wiring would be hidden below that

 

[Cherokee]

Nice Lobo, I will enjoy watching the mods.
The dinner plate wheels reminded me of a certain model of Walmart plastic hub caps. Fugly as’ell.

 

[Headbanger]

Nice lookin truck! Congrats! Killer sub box too

 

[truknbass]

Thanks for the detailed explanation, I get it now!

To hide the wiring could you make a cover out of acrylic or thin MDF that sits flush around the amp's heat sink, and covers the dip where the amp is installed? All your wiring would be hidden below that

That's totally an idea and I'll think about it that. I actually built the box for a different amp and subs. That's why the current amp looks wonky..

 

[truknbass]

Had a real nice update.. Ugh... I dropped the trim board and broke it.

I angle ground down the entire box with an 80 grit flap disk to get most the ugly out. Body work on box itself is roughly 80% done... I shifted focus on trim board.. cleaning edges and stuff.. dropped in right on a corner and the weak spot broke.. hoping I can fix it and recover.. will update later today. Super bummed.

 

[truknbass]

If it goes real bad.. I can use it as a template and recut a new one. Sucks but a flush cut bit on my router makes quick work of it.

 

[colinl]

This is one of the reasons I originally chose to run a 8" woofer instead of 10". A 10 gets mounted super close to the edges of the box, especially if your box does not delete the plastic tub insert because the FITS slots reduce the width at least an inch.

 

[truknbass]

This is one of the reasons I originally chose to run a 8" woofer instead of 10". A 10 gets mounted super close to the edges of the box, especially if your box does not delete the plastic tub insert because the FITS slots reduce the width at least an inch.

The mounting board not so much. It's a 9.2" cut out. I had a feeling the upper trim board might be weak. The repair so far seems okay. It's a beauty board not a weight bearing board so hopefully it'll be alright.

 

[truknbass]

Lost a day basically fixing the beauty board. Sucks. But I was able to drill out the holes into the box and beauty board for the magnets to hold it in place. Box itself is almost ready for primer.. beauty board has a ways to go.

Amazon came in today with some goodies.

I was able to drill a 2 inch number 6 dry wall screw at an angle as a way to add strength. Soaked it w some resign and laided 3 layers of weave inside and out in both sides..angle ground the head off and then did some body work. Seems ok. Just can't drop it again. Doh. Still ugly looking.. that'll change soon.

 

[truknbass]

Coming out the ugly stage. Repair seems fine. Basically at this point its body work. I've been adding resign to my body filler to thin it out to make it easier to work with. At this stage the big truck is to use just a small pea size amount of body filler hardner. You don't need much. The moment the body filler stops spreading smoothly and starts to looks a lil sandy.. I'll throw out anything not used. At that stage it's not worth trying to throw it on because you just sand it off anyway. It's so hard to fight the urge.. but thin coats. Top of box and beauty board is sanded down with 220 in these photos. Next I'll spray some cheap primer down and use it as a guide cost. Garage a dump...

 

[truknbass]

Not much too report outside I have the wiring mostly figured out. I'm at a point where I'm able to do super thin coats of body filler. The trick w the crappy 2 in one primer is just thin coats so it flashes off.

Really like using my durablocks on this. Hope my beauty board isn't wavy. Knocked down this black primer. Really showed the ugly. But it's been a bunch of filler and sanding. Had to hammer everything down with 60 and finally 120. Messed up one batch of filler and it didn't cure. Sucks scraping it off. Switched to gray primer later on..

Still ugly but not hideous anymore.

 

[Ravinus]

Truck looks great other than them butt ass ugly wheels, that would be the first thing I'd replace once I took it home.

Reminds me as a kid watching Knight Rider and the fugly wheels on the firebird Kit

I like the Lobo rims and the Knight Rider

 

[truknbass]

Final test fit. Final finish sanding in progress. Hope to have it finished soon.

 

[colinl]

that's a lot of work on the box, hopefully it turns out awesome.

btw, I am not trying to be 'that guy' but what's the reasoning for the dual pioneer shallow mount 10s? had them already, used them before with good results, etc?

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