Puzu DSP... runs hot?

[BobsterD]

I recently connected a Puzu DSP C7 to my base audio in my XLT. Really makes a big difference! However, I am wondering to those who have done the same... does it seem like it runs hot? I realize amps can get warm but this one is really toasty. Also, how many are using the power thru the Puzu harness or running separate power and ground? Not sure how much this little amp draws but the harness leads look kinda thin.....

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[Tmh573]

I too would love to know these answers. Been considering a puzu for a while but concerned about messing something up on the truck.

 

[bckrupps]

I have been running it for about 10 months. I mounted it above the cabin air filter behind the glove box. I didnt know much about DSP’s but I am learning and this has far exceeded my expectation even more so knowing what I know now. I just used the Puzu harness with no issues at all. I also have recently connected a subwoofer again with zero issues. If I had one suggestion to someone that hasn’t bought one yet I would probably suggest the C31. It has slightly more power but more importantly a broader range of eq adjustments that would certainly come in handy especially if adding a subwoofer later. It’s not necessary but the cost difference is small and worth it long term. They probably double or more the output in reality of the power vs stock and cleaner so it is a huge difference especially with setting the eq properly to your speakers. I would consider the specs accurate. I see no reason to hard wire it. I’m guessing the heat is do to pushing it and your speakers to do more than they probably should be doing causing clipping and distortion hence heat. If you set the eq to filter out anything below 50 hz and it should be even higher than that it will be a non issue using door speakers.

 

[Tmh573]

I have been running it for about 10 months. I mounted it above the cabin air filter behind the glove box. I didnt know much about DSP’s but I am learning and this has far exceeded my expectation even more so knowing what I know now. I just used the Puzu harness with no issues at all. I also have recently connected a subwoofer again with zero issues. If I had one suggestion to someone that hasn’t bought one yet I would probably suggest the C31. It has slightly more power but more importantly a broader range of eq adjustments that would certainly come in handy especially if adding a subwoofer later. It’s not necessary but the cost difference is small and worth it long term. They probably double or more the output in reality of the power vs stock and cleaner so it is a huge difference especially with setting the eq properly to your speakers. I would consider the specs accurate. I see no reason to hard wire it. I’m guessing the heat is do to pushing it and your speakers to do more than they probably should be doing causing clipping and distortion hence heat. If you set the eq to filter out anything below 50 hz and it should be even higher than that it will be a non issue using door speakers.

Thanks for the feedback. One of my hesitations about this is the tiny gauge power wires of the harness. I'd be even more concerned with the more powerful model.

One of the big selling points for me is the sub outputs. Hope to put the 8 inch Rockville a lot of people on here have behind the rear seat

 

[bckrupps]

It realistically doesn’t have more power than a high powered car stereo and probably more efficient and clean especially when tuned properly. It also will not be pushed nearly as hard anyway because you would be adjusting the dsp to cut the lower frequencies from the door speakers that they can’t handle so it won’t be drawing as much. In my opinion it’s a total non issue. If you are running it without cutting the lows yes you will get heat but also distortion. Tuned properly I don’t see any way you could come close to pushing it to concerning levels. It also has a main gain (volume) slider. I run mine at -15 as that matches well to the Maverick stock radio where it’s clean to about 80 percent volume. I think the problem is learning how to tune everything. I played with it for a month probably. It’s a dsp so it’s not a plug in and rock out type setup as everything has to be matched which takes time and patience. I can certainly upload my screenshots which could give you direction but it would not sound right or good unless a subwoofer is installed to handle the lows. I have since cut out anything below 70 hz in the doors and the Puzu isn’t even warm to the touch. Not to be redundant but until you add the subwoofer you will either have almost no lower bass to be correct and clean or pushing low end where nothing can handle it causing heat and distortion problems. The small speakers whether stock or not just can’t handle it and that’s the problem not the Puzu. I have ocd this thing for a month and it’s a pretty darn impressive little dsp that should be more popular than it is for the Maverick. Hopefully that helps.

 

[Pfendi]

It realistically doesn’t have more power than a high powered car stereo and probably more efficient and clean especially when tuned properly. It also will not be pushed nearly as hard anyway because you would be adjusting the dsp to cut the lower frequencies from the door speakers that they can’t handle so it won’t be drawing as much. In my opinion it’s a total non issue. If you are running it without cutting the lows yes you will get heat but also distortion. Tuned properly I don’t see any way you could come close to pushing it to concerning levels. It also has a main gain (volume) slider. I run mine at -15 as that matches well to the Maverick stock radio where it’s clean to about 80 percent volume. I think the problem is learning how to tune everything. I played with it for a month probably. It’s a dsp so it’s not a plug in and rock out type setup as everything has to be matched which takes time and patience. I can certainly upload my screenshots which could give you direction but it would not sound right or good unless a subwoofer is installed to handle the lows. I have since cut out anything below 70 hz in the doors and the Puzu isn’t even warm to the touch. Not to be redundant but until you add the subwoofer you will either have almost no lower bass to be correct and clean or pushing low end where nothing can handle it causing heat and distortion problems. The small speakers whether stock or not just can’t handle it and that’s the problem not the Puzu. I have ocd this thing for a month and it’s a pretty darn impressive little dsp that should be more popular than it is for the Maverick. Hopefully that helps.

Thanks for that. Slowly mapping out a plan to do some upgrades on my Mav, so that helped.

I do have one question that I have yet to find an answer to. Because the C7 is only a 4 channel, what 4 speaker channels are getting the tuning? I would guess the 4 doors separately, but what about the dash and passenger head-level speakers? Are they still getting driven directly by the head unit? Or are they in parallel with the rear doors/front doors? I may be able to trace it out in the service manual diagrams…

I do understand that I could upgrade them all and run RCAs to everything for a proper setup (with a 8ch DSP), but I’m really hoping to just get by with the C7 for a sub output and to filter out the low end from the door speakers.

 

[bckrupps]

All 6 speakers are amplified. The dash speakers are just tweeters connected to the front doors. The puzu can adjust all the speakers together or separate and there are 2 more channels for amps for a subwoofer ect. What you are asking is exactly what I did but I put coaxials in the doors and took out the dash tweeters. It’s personal preference. If you want to keep the stock speakers it’s fine but you will absolutely have to eliminate the lows below 80hz at minimum i would assume or you will definitely blow them with the added power

 

[Pfendi]

All 6 speakers are amplified. The dash speakers are just tweeters connected to the front doors. The puzu can adjust all the speakers together or separate and there are 2 more channels for amps for a subwoofer ect. What you are asking is exactly what I did but I put coaxials in the doors and took out the dash tweeters. It’s personal preference. If you want to keep the stock speakers it’s fine but you will absolutely have to eliminate the lows below 80hz at minimum i would assume or you will definitely blow them with the added power

Understood, I seem to have forgotten that there are no door speakers in the rear doors, only the rear pillar speakers taking their place.

It seems like hitting the door speakers right away may be the way to go. Looks like others in different threads were able to reuse the factory wiring for the front doors, hopefully I can get that to work. I remember reading somewhere that the tweeters have a HPF built in or in-line already, so I’m hoping that leaving them in won’t leave me too disappointed, maybe those will be another project for the future. Appreciate the help!

Time go download OSM and see if that friend still has his RTA mic. I guess I’m taking the plunge haha.

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