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Everyone has wants and some have more than others. There are many posts from B&O owners and their experiences after the upgrades made. Perhaps get their personal opinion. I'm fairly certain you'll repeatedly see the same results.
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F-050

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Hello All,
I'm an audio vendor for multiple Ford forums and would love to help everyone here with your audio needs. Please feel free to ask me questions through here or by email at [email protected].
Regards,
Bruce
I have a Lariat Hybrid wB&O system. Sub is pathetic and tweeters if present not enough highs. Oh, and Vol goes to 30 which would be 20 on my old car.
If I had known I wouldn't have bought that package and saved the money for a REAL system.
 
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It's not too late and a new system doesn't have to cost thousands of dollars. A PAC bypass unit costs $439, Kicker Key amp $279, Morel Maximo Ultra 602 MKII $289, coax set $189, and depending on your bass needs it goes from there. This would get you a vastly improved sound over the B&O system. A 12" sub in a ported enclosure can be had for under $250 and throw in a Kicker Key amp for that at $279 you end up with a banging system that can bounce keys on the dash if you want.
 

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The factory system puts out roughly 7 watts meaning aftermarket speakers will be under driven. If your truck came with the B&O system, a speaker swap will not help until you bypass the system using a NavTV or PAC unit.
I disagree with this completely.

I swapped the front stage of my B&O equipped Maverick with a set of Focal RSE-165 components, which are pretty inexpensive in the grand scheme of things, and have high efficiency so they perform pretty well with lower watts.

I assume the 7w comment is in regards to the base / non-B&O system. I don't know what the Maverick B&O amp is rated at for watts rms. I've never seen a spec or anyone who benchmarked it properly.

But my system can play into the 107-110 db range which is loud enough for me, and a good match to my sub which is an Alpine R2 8" dual 2-ohm powered by a Kicker key 500.1 amp. I was going to bypass & remove the B&O amp if I needed to ... and haven't. Granted, if you have any kind of 3 piece component or very high powered 2 pc, you might need more amp.
 
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Perhaps I should have broken that paragraph in half. I meant that the factory standard system only has 7 watts. The B&O system is amplified so of course it should offer more power for aftermarket speakers. The only issue with the B&O system is that you really won't get nearly the full potential out of any speaker set until you bypass the system. This would include using a bypass unit, new amplifier, etc.
 

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It's not too late and a new system doesn't have to cost thousands of dollars. A PAC bypass unit costs $439, Kicker Key amp $279, Morel Maximo Ultra 602 MKII $289, coax set $189, and depending on your bass needs it goes from there. This would get you a vastly improved sound over the B&O system. A 12" sub in a ported enclosure can be had for under $250 and throw in a Kicker Key amp for that at $279 you end up with a banging system that can bounce keys on the dash if you want.
Well that adds up to 1700 bucks. Out of my ballpark...-supported to
 

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do you have a facebook page?
 
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Well that adds up to 1700 bucks. Out of my ballpark...-supported to
I completely understand but that price is peanuts comparatively to the B&O system's cost for a vastly superior end result.
 
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do you have a facebook page?
I do but hardly ever use it. I've been on multiple forums as a vendor for years if there was any concern about the legitimacy of my company. Please feel free to Google Hush Car Audio for reviews. I no longer maintain a website as it was way too much work for this one man army. Did you have any particular question that I might be able to help you with?
 

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I offer plug and play signal wiring kits. Here is a video showing how easy my harness will be to figure out: CLICK ME!
Could you send me a quote for a harness from Factory Radio to:
  1. Kicker 8” Hideaway (under driver’s seat)
  2. WavTech 300.4 (rear wall passenger side) to
    1. Front L/R Focal Auditor ACE 165 S passive crossovers to
      1. Focal Auditor ACE 165 S woofers in stock front door locations
      2. Focal Auditor ACE 165 S tweeters in stock dash locations
    2. Rear L/R Focal ICU 2-way speakers in stock rear pillar locations
 
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Could you send me a quote for a harness from Factory Radio to:
  1. Kicker 8” Hideaway (under driver’s seat)
  2. WavTech 300.4 (rear wall passenger side) to
    1. Front L/R Focal Auditor ACE 165 S passive crossovers to
      1. Focal Auditor ACE 165 S woofers in stock front door locations
      2. Focal Auditor ACE 165 S tweeters in stock dash locations
    2. Rear L/R Focal ICU 2-way speakers in stock rear pillar locations
I can't post prices publicly due to my contracts if they are less than MSRP. I offer bundle deals so that's why email is the best form of communication. Please reach me at [email protected].
 

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How did you end up with the 7 watts per channel for the base system? That seems alittle low considering how loud it gets compared to say an aftermarket headunit that puts out 15 watts per channel and doesn't seem nearly as loud. So what would that end up being volt wise as a pre-amp voltage coming out of the stock headunit going into an amp as high level inputs? Thanks
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