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Interesting. I would not have guessed looking at the measurements. Thanks for the info.

If you have a DSP add an All Pass Filter on the passenger side door speaker centered at that frequency, adjust Q to fit the null.

I agree that we will most likely see distortion at higher volumes on the base system. But by just measuring the output of the speaker you do not know the source of the distortion. I believe you would nuke the coil on a speaker before you could tell from an RTA that is is the physical speaker...

I agree, going from one to the other is a night and day difference. The clarity and definition of the B&O is far superior.

For RTA, you want to make sure you are over ambient noise. The louder the measurement the more distortion and resonance you will pick up. Distortion, in a basic form, is unwanted sound. This includes reflections, noise from vibrating panels, or the speaker itself not producing the sound...

There are many factors that play into how an audio system sounds such as speaker placement, orientation, and speaker design. The biggest issue in autos is that the environment is small and there are a lot of surfaces for sound to bounce off of. The variations shown in the RTA are mostly caused...

All measurements were taken between the front seat headrests using a jig for consistency and volume at 12. Equipment: Room EQ Wizard (REW) - Software used to capture RTA measurements Onyx Producter 2.2 - Audio Interface Dayton EMM-6 - Measurement Microphone Smoothing at 1/3 Octave Fade and...

I don't think they changed the high pass frequency between the two variations, it appears they are both around 100Hz, maybe a 24 dB/octave. The Blue is the base front door speaker and the Red is the B&O front door speaker.

That is a tough question. Someone can easily add a subwoofer as you suggested, this solves a lot of the issues of the base audio setup. I would think this would solve the issue for most people, so in this case $400, but even at that point they are still not equal. But if you are more concerned...

I would expect that to have more output than the factory sub. I believe people who have these are happy with them but they would know more than me.

Listening tells me that the center channel speaker does really well at bringing the imaging higher on the dash, still not eye level, but noticeably higher than the base audio. Looking at near field measurements, measurements directly in front of the speaker, it shows the door speakers have an...

A quick teaser. Base vs B&O flat EQ with 60/40 front bias fade volume of both at 12. Orange is B&O, Green is base. The B&O has a more flat response, and even a slight rise around 850 Hz and obviously the sub 100 Hz gain from the sub woofer.

I did get measurements of the B&O with some help from a friend. I will get a post put together with those results soon. They did not change the door speaker, I did not pull the front tweeter or the rear.

To answer your question, I think you would want all of your audio coming from one source, so use the KEYLOC to correct the input, split the output into the 4 channel and mono block, then use the crossovers on the amplifiers. With that said, I am not sure this would be a total upgrade. If sound...

I plan on taking some measurements of the B&O this weekend to compare against the base audio system. Base Audio Measurements I can pull a door panel and take some pictures of the speaker, I need to do some more research anyway. I plan on a full audio upgrade once the weather warms up.

Looking at the diagram in the thread below, there is no switched going to the Audio Control Module, it is told when to turn on by the CAN bus. https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/wiring-diagram-for-stereo-connections.12453/ I did pull the vents and look at the Audio Control Module...

In my efforts to upgrade the factory audio system I needed some baseline measurements. Equipment: Room EQ Wizard (REW) - Software used to capture RTA measurements Onyx Producter 2.2 - Audio Interface Dayton EMM-6 - Measurement Microphone Radio volume Level at 17 Fade and Balance as specified EQ...

Looking at Crutchfield, they list this same harness on the 2024 Escape with the 13" screen, so one would assume this is correct.

The only issue with the factory wiring is you would want to run new speaker wire to the tweeters if you buy a component set with a passive cross over. Mount the crossover in the dash, or up in the kick panels somewhere, connect the factory front wires to the door speakers, then run new speaker...

If it is a 25MY, this is what the manual states.