Search results

The Fortune Auto coilovers came in a few weeks ago. I opted for the Swift spring upgrade, 5K front and 9K rear. Install took a bit longer than I was expecting. Front went on quickly and easily including the Whiteline sway bar links. The rear was more involved. The sway bar was fun, glad I...

The major issue with the midbass is the phase. Around the crossover points the phase is a mess, this makes alignment difficult. I think the front sub would help with this. I want to play around more with xover points for the midbss, upper and lower. My time alignment is still off, so if I can...

I should retake these measurements, I was using the wrong sample rate, thus the fluctuations at the bottom end. I went a bit off the deep end with my audio build, still tuning, but have all of the equipment installed. Check out my build thread for specifics. I did not play around with the...

Started on mounting the new mids. I decide to just make an adapter to mount onto the existing baffles I made for the SBs. Added wire leads to the mids. The adapter mounts using the same screws as the SB, then the VWB25.4 mounts into that. There is a slight angle inward. Mounted into the...

Installed the Strut bar, and needed a solution for the cable and tubes that run near it. Designed and printed some wire clamps. 2 for the high volt cable that runs around the passenger side strut tower. And one for the tubes near the center. I routed the cable towards the front of the...

The next project that I have had on my list since purchasing the truck was the suspension upgrades. Good-Win rear sway bar & bushings, Whiteline front sway bar end links, and a Jack Pad adapter from Good-Win Racing. Rear camber arms and Front camber bolts from Eibach. Front strut brace...

Took some time to work on the truck. Added some CLD to the hood and installed a Maxzina hood shield. Not sure it will block much sound, but the CLD helps with the resonance of the hood. I was not a fan of the hardware that came with the hood shield, so I designed and printed some inserts and...

I just ordered a full set for all of my exterior lights from VLEDs. They have great reviews and competitive prices. I installed the cargo lights and 3rd brake light this weekend and they are nice and bright. https://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/921-led/921-36-w-5500k.html

The new mids came in, Morel VWB25.4s. I will be starting installation and tuning in the coming weeks. Also picked up some LEDs for all exterior lights. I don't like the switchback lights, I wanted from amber lights for the parking / blinker lights. Did some research and landed on VLEDs...

Mine also does this, but not all the time. It seems to be random.

The core of the issue is that a 6.5" speaker will start to beam below the x-over point. You are loosing a lot of mid range information. Looking at the diagram below, beaming has an affect at ~1100 Hz, I would guess your tweeter x-over is close to 2500 Hz, which is well into beaming. What you...

I was wondering the same thing. The Broncos have one, I am not sure if the cover comes off though. It also does not say sync 4. I browsed through several models and did not find one listed as sync 4. M2DZ-19A387-D If you just want a light, would this help? Interior Light...

Why not go with the MPD 5.550? One amplifier, plenty of power for a single 10" and it simplifies the install. I have not heard the JL Stealth box, but seems a bit pricey, I think you could do better with a prefab box and an efficient sub of your choice. The Dayton RSS265HS-44 would be a great...

You could have got the Woolwax kit with a gallon of material and a spray gun for that price. A thin coat would more that suffice to cover the bed. It is just to prevent water from sitting on the bed under the cover, you do not need it thick enough to protect from water splashing on it.

Woolwax or Fluid film? I bet 1 spray can would be enough. You don't need a thick coat. Might have to reapply every few years, but for $15 you can't beat it. It would be a pain to remove if you ever needed to though.

That is all one piece.

The output of the ACM goes into the LOC, then the output of the amplifier goes to the speaker. You should use a Y Harness to split the wires. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-LMvwPKCxhGp/p_541LPHFD31/PAC-LPHFD31-LocPro-Advanced-T-Harness.html

https://www.cravenspeed.com/the-stubby-antenna-2/ Great quality, and is just taller than the shark fin.

I was chatting with someone on an audio forum and he suggested I try raising the xover point between the midbass and sub. I know I tried this during my tuning process, but was not happy with the sound stage, the sub seemed to pull back the image. But this was before I learned new tricks to...

Resonix is far superior to other brands, but you pay for it. I use CLD squares on my front outer door skin, all door panels and roof. I used CLD Lite on the rear outer door skin, B & C pillar meta and rear wall. The Front doors are noticeably more dead than the rears, but no speaker in the rear...