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Hello everyone, Its already been touched on, but all of our spring lots have date codes so that we have traceability. The springs are distinctly different and will have a different lot code, there will not be a chance of getting them mixed up. Rate has not changed, the spring is just now no...

Hello everyone, we have finally been able to determine that there is enough variance between the production chassis components and our springs to cause interference in the scenario that both are at opposites ends of their tolerance allowances. We have designed a completely new front spring to...

Hey Everyone, thank you for your patience while we look into this. I didn’t want to respond until we had some more information. Rest assured we’re looking at this now, but we still need to find someone who is local and currently experiencing the noise concern so we can further inspect. If so...

We actually should be getting protos with in the next week or so, we will test fit them shortly after.

I just replaced it with an M12x1.5(have to double check the thread pitch) just checked its M12x1.25 non locking flange nut. You could get a nyloc flange nut as well.

The only time we saw any noise is when the threads got wiped out on the top of the shaft. The OE nut is a top locking nut and this can be the result, this caused a noise to occur on small road imperfections. Just one thing to keep an eye out for.

If anyone is local to southern California and is experiencing this we would love to take a look at it and see what's going on. We had someone lined up to come in but never showed and stopped responding.

The noise is for sure sway bar bushings.

Its cheaper than a 4 seat can-am or RZR 🤷‍♂️ :unsure:

Looks like this was cleared up. FYI these are a cobranded part, most alignment components we have are SPC parts that we sell exclusively as a kit. Usually most of the SPC components are sold as one corner only. The washer is there simply as an indicator to tell you where the cam is at since...

Sorry these are already sold.

The FWD and AWD have very different rear suspensions, FWD is a torsion beam so its solid and both sides are connected. There is no adjustability. AWD is multi-link and does have toe/camber adjustment, its just not adequate for most lowering applications.

Definitely an upgrade over stock, but since its not running through an amp, probably not what they could be. Not sure any audio I take will really convey the sound that well.

Still needs a couple of tweaks but not too bad for eye balling alot of the features.

Front would still be 2"

The rear will end up closer to 1.5" but with more rate to help with extra weight.

Really didn't under normal driving. Lowering will give you better handling, but I had all terrains on when it was lowered. I towed both lifted and lowered no problem, only hauled stuff in the bed lifted. For me loading it lifted or lowered wouldn't change anything.

Still a few months out, currently waiting on prototypes to be made.

I would say 4hrs is pretty reasonable for doing it your first time. Front is straight forward, having access to a decent spring compressor will make it a lot easier. The hardest part in the rear is getting the lower control arm bushing lined back up.

The lift springs are OE rates, the tremor might have marginally lower spring rates, I would imagine most of the change is in the shock tuning and possible bumpstops.