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I added the moonroof when I ordered mine in 24. I really enjoy it, I use the tilt and open the back glass. Gives it a nice little breeze inside without rolling down the windows.

The adaptive cruise and lane assist is certainly nice for long road trips. Aside from that I don’t use it much.

Call me crazy but I don’t see the point of putting a tray on top of another tray?

Bonoss makes a good spacer, I’ve been running them for a while with no issues. Well made product.

Not gonna lie, I think both trucks look hideous lol the maverick imo and not being bias just because I have one but looks the most like an actual truck

Maybe yours does, but mine doesn’t. I tested different rolling speeds on my way to work not 30 mins ago. The rear wheels don’t engage over a certain speed.

So if the display is accurate once you get over 25ish mph the rear wheels aren’t being used anymore at all. Even if you go to pass a car going 35-40 it’s all FWD. So what I think what’s happening is once you get to 13 mph mark it’s when the transmission shifts into 1st and at that point it’s...

I changed RDU fluid in mine and it didn’t make a difference. It is odd that it doesn’t make the noise at low outside temps. -insert x files theme music

Because at cruising speeds the Maverick is basically a FWD. Once you drop into the low gears the rear axle will re-engage and go back to an AWD mode. if you look at the AWD screen on the dash you will see that the rear wheels are not used after getting up to speed

You’ll have to take the wheel off and see if it has the “pockets” on the back side where it seats. I’m not familiar with how the XLT wheels are made, if it does then you’ll be good to go, if not you’ll have to trim the studs accordingly.

Here’s mine with 35mm on rear and the 25s on the front.

You know it wouldn’t have been a wheel spacer thread without the “why do you hate your wheel bearings” guy lol I concur with everything you said tho, this “truck” might as well be a car since it’s a unibody. It might weigh 3-3500 pounds. A 1 inch wheel spacers might prematurely wear it out at...

35mm easily fits, 25mm has some stud poke but not enough to not let the wheel seat. I’m running the stock wheel and tire setup. Fx4 wheels have the pockets on the back of the wheel. From what I can tell 25 is the smallest you can go without modifying the studs

I bought some hub centric spacers from Bonoss and they have worked well for me. 25mm front 35mm rear No modifications to the studs just bolt on and go

To me 5000 miles is plenty, oil changes are cheap, motors aren’t. Turbocharged vehicles like fresh clean oil, I change mine and reset my trip and change again every 5k. I pay no attention to the OLM. While you’re at it I’d make a habit or turning the Auto start stop feature off as well.

Wonder how hard it would be to fab up the stock one so you wouldn’t even have to take it off at all… the rival skid plate is nice but the price is a little to steep for me.

I’ve seen people go back and forth about this on threads and I personally wouldn’t think twice about towing something over weight limit of my 2k if it was for short stints. That being said though I have the Fx4 package which comes with a majority of the 4K components minus the tranny cooler.

Found a good deal on these on Tire Rack.. Uniroyal Laredo AT 225/65/17 on the reg 17inch FX4 wheels. Debated on going with a 235 but after getting these put on I’m glad I went with the stock measurements.

I’ve debated on taking mine off but I don’t want to still be able to faintly see the outline of where it was if I do. I’ve had a couple cars in the past do that just because the paint underneath is fresh. Anybody had that happen?

I’ve quit paying attention to it. I’m almost positive it’s just the AWD components re-engaging after it’s dropping into lower gear since it’s basically a front wheel drive truck at cruising speeds. Just seems that roughly 1 out of 4 happen to get the ones that are noisy about it