OK my audio guy replied. I'm not sure what his criteria is but he always prefers the LCi for level conversion. He said they also have "accubass" which he thinks is useful.
I guess technically, the sub signal to that 6x9 POS should already BE low-pass so I'm not sure if or what any further...
Full disclosure I'm not a car audio expert. This particular set of LCi and amp and box and Skar were all advised by a friend who is the expert. But that's a very good question I'll ask him.
I don't have a specific volume, like 22, where things so sideways. If using a USB Mp3 track, or Youtube...
Sorta similar. kicks it for an 8in, in this small cab.. removable, even left the maverick "toy" 6x9 sub and connectors in place. Wired it 12v to the adjacent battery fused of course. It detects sound is on and powers everything up, normally off of course.
Seat closes fine..
I know it...
I have something similar. when cold, shift into D or R, and it doesnt move. Press gas and at like 1/4 it finally moves, lunging.
I'm not overly concerned but I hope its not an precursor to some future issue.
I bought these , simple install with those adapters, and faced them forward. MUCH louder than the stock clown car horn.
https://tinyurl.com/mavhorns2
https://tinyurl.com/mavhorns
can u add photos of the tweeter installs? I'm not sure where they are or how to remove the OEMs? I was considering, but not sure if they would pop in- these SKAR 3.5" TX35
Nice job and TY for the details. I'm undertaking a similar project. I have the little gem below. I wonder though , are ALL the audio signals (F LR, R LR, Sub) present near the B&O Sub? Lastly - connectors. I see the exising B&O harness has a strange spade connector that looks impossible to...
none of those fees for us this time at Mullinax Vero. MSRP tax & tag. We we're very dubious because as you said. every other dealer we've bought from including Pam Bay Ford added all sorts of prep and doc fees and lots more.