Has anyone repaired the hybrid wiring harness issue themselves? Would my idea work? (Dead hybrid update, more info on where the issue is)

[Miskomd]

Mine 100% has the issue. For a while, it would "re-energize" everything and work again for a day or two if I jiggle the cable at the defective terminal under the hood. Now it won't, so it requires a jump every time. The dealers are backed up and the part to fix is on backorder. I can't leave my truck there for weeks and have no vehicle. Would I be able to simply remove the defective contact and replace with something like this?

https://www.grainger.com/product/1X...gucid=EMT:10339122:Item:CSM-323&emcid=NA:Item

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[NJBob]

Would think you could if you have the right crimper. Or maybe re crimp the old one to buy some time. You would think the dealers could do this.

 

[Timothyd]

Mine 100% has the issue. For a while, it would "re-energize" everything and work again for a day or two if I jiggle the cable at the defective terminal under the hood. Now it won't, so it requires a jump every time. The dealers are backed up and the part to fix is on backorder. I can't leave my truck there for weeks and have no vehicle. Would I be able to simply remove the defective contact and replace with something like this?

https://www.grainger.com/product/1X...gucid=EMT:10339122:Item:CSM-323&emcid=NA:Item

We use those lugs all the time for high voltage connections. Round off the sharp edges and solder it after you crimp it. Put some very heavy shrink tubing over the crimp/cable.

 

[Speed2000]

I'm pretty sure it will void your warranty.

 

[Gullzway]

I bought this one for Copper and Aluminum. Though, I haven't had any issues since putting a small clamp on it, so I haven't installed it. May wait and see if there's a recall unless I have an issue with it before then.

If I was having your issues, I would have already fixed it. Though you may consider the clamp, if you want to later take it to the dealer after removing the clamp.

https://a.co/d/2FSvTdy

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/hybrid-battery-cable-clamp.17052/

OP's first post is the exact clamp I used.

 

[Miskomd]

For anyone interested- I did some more investigating under the hood today. The problem terminal is NOT the one that most people are circling in pictures (the one right behind the + jump terminal, with a black cap on it and an image saying don’t jump here)…it is the one BEHIND that. It also has a little black cover, with an arrow pointing sideways. I’ll see if I can get a pic tomorrow. I can clearly see a flat connector/lug that has slid from the wire and is a super loose connection. Moving it around made everything come back to life. To really get in there, you have to remove the fuse box. I temporarily tightened it up with a hose clamp and it’s working correctly at the moment. I have a service appt in 10 days, so I will take the hose clamp off before and wiggle the connection until it fails again. Shouldn’t be hard.

 

[fishinmagician]

For anyone interested- I did some more investigating under the hood today. The problem terminal is NOT the one that most people are circling in pictures (the one right behind the + jump terminal, with a black cap on it and an image saying don’t jump here)…it is the one BEHIND that. It also has a little black cover, with an arrow pointing sideways. I’ll see if I can get a pic tomorrow. I can clearly see a flat connector/lug that has slid from the wire and is a super loose connection. Moving it around made everything come back to life. To really get in there, you have to remove the fuse box. I temporarily tightened it up with a hose clamp and it’s working correctly at the moment. I have a service appt in 10 days, so I will take the hose clamp off before and wiggle the connection until it fails again. Shouldn’t be hard.

Good to know. So it seems like the whole harness is defective after all

 

[Miskomd]

Seems to be just that one connection….hopefully. The one right behind the jump point is crimped on and seems solid. Maddening that @Ford Motor Company hasn’t issued a recall or even distributed a TSB yet. My build date was in December 21.

 

[skinnyboy]

For anyone interested- I did some more investigating under the hood today. The problem terminal is NOT the one that most people are circling in pictures (the one right behind the + jump terminal, with a black cap on it and an image saying don’t jump here)…it is the one BEHIND that. It also has a little black cover, with an arrow pointing sideways. I’ll see if I can get a pic tomorrow. I can clearly see a flat connector/lug that has slid from the wire and is a super loose connection. Moving it around made everything come back to life. To really get in there, you have to remove the fuse box. I temporarily tightened it up with a hose clamp and it’s working correctly at the moment. I have a service appt in 10 days, so I will take the hose clamp off before and wiggle the connection until it fails again. Shouldn’t be hard.

Thanks very much for posting this Miskomd!

The termination that failed on your truck is quite a bit more difficult to access than the one in front of it. Explains to some degree why there hasn't been a work around forwarded to the dealers, and the service reports some have posted indicate the fuse box and DC to DC converter are removed for access. Less space and cable to work with for a repair.

Cheers.

 

[Mach 1]

Tim, i would like to see the solder job, that you post, aluminum is next to impossible to solder, so soldering is o ut.

I would not accept uga repair either as its copper lug on aluminum cable.

I am doing some research on a copper/clad connector that is not crimp(cause it is very tight in there for a huge set of crimpers.)

 

[Mach 1]

Mis, are you following my probe/inspection post, also i believe i have a repair that is much better then mention or seen on here or the dealerships, pm me if you want more info.

 

[Miskomd]

Mis, are you following my probe/inspection post, also i believe i have a repair that is much better then mention or seen on here or the dealerships, pm me if you want more info.

Yep, I too have been working on that. I have on order a mechanical lug that is tin plated copper, paired with anti-ox paste and heat shrink.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Burndy-K...-Terminal-Lug-4-AWG-1-0-AWG-SCRULUG/111682267

 

[Mach 1]

Mis, I have a little bit of info in this post, it shows where the joint is failing, shows what a good joint looks like, and how to check it.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/hybrid-battery-cable-lug-inspect.20063/

 

[Eagle11]

Why would you want to fix it yourself? If it's covered under warranty, let Ford do it.

 

[Miskomd]

2 weeks for an appointment and can’t offer a rental til they diagnose. Even then it’s only 30/day…which is not what a rental costs. Called 6 dealers in town. Need it every day to work and I have some basic skills, so I just did it. Also not interested in the dealer crimping on a copper lug to the aluminum cable.

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