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It sucks but I ran out of closed cell foam doing the passenger door with none on the driver's side. I will probably order another set of CCF to do on the driver's side and tackle the backseats with just left over CCF. No way in hell I am ordering more butyl for the rear seats. I like your idea...

Over could be misinterpreted here (on top of vs preference). I did not put the CCF over the Butyl panels. Panels on the metal door which are strong as the panels are heavy. CCF on the plastic trim exposed to the cabin so that the speaker does not vibrate the plastic. On youtube its essentially...

Many thanks to @LazyMex2022 (also a user here as @LaxyMex2022 )and @Bumpers & Doors DIY for there excellent videos on YouTube. It is raining today and I do not have a garage so this is what I did yesterday. Then I screwed up with one of the bolts during re-assembly and decided to stop. Window...

I reviewed the 2022 schematic looking for a REMOTE signal HU to trigger the amp and found none. I reviewed the YouTube install guides to find a PAC TR-4 ($15) component that could use the high speaker signal to substitute for a remote from the HU but I forgot to order. In the end (so far) I...

The C-Pillar trim was difficult to remove because the trim plastic has a strong metal clip that mounts to a weak metal tab near the back-wall corner that wants to deform. A big flat-head screwdriver can wedge between the tab and plastic trim can release the clip. The more forward clips are...

To mount the Sub to the back wall I selected an unused truck bracket on the truck and fabricated a flat panel from 2x4' 3/8" PVC siding from big box hardware store. 3/8" worked out well. The large panel holds the sub and is mounted to the lower truck bracket. A 3/4" wide strip along the...

After removing the rear plastic trim, I installed Amazon sound deadening to the back wall. YouTube recommended to no remove the back horizontal piece but removal was pretty trivial and no broken clips. It also made it convenient to route the signal cables in a protected space. The back panel...

TLDR: I went with Option 2 - Powered Sub and replacement Kicker 4" in the rear pillars since I had already struggled with removing the rear trim to get a high power signal to the sub. I confirmed the powered sub worked. With the replacement Kickers installed and powered sub set to min gain as...

This trim removal has been much more difficult than what I had expected but is moving forward. I request consultation on what I should be looking out for. Option 1: I tap the sub/amp into the factory not B&O system high power source in parallel with the rear factory speakers. Option 2: I swap...

Many thanks to @Lane for his excellent build write-up. I am planning a sub-woofer add to a stock/not B&O stereo. I want to tap to the rear speakers for signal to a powered sub. Assuming the rear fade is >0, does the integrated line output converter care what the fade level is in regard to how...

Today I confirmed that the overhead map lights do NOT activate the footwell lamps. Fine for my purposes. The map lights must have a separate hot activated by the switch while the courtesy function is driven by the BCM.

Finished Product - Not nearly as bright as the photos would suggest but definitely courtesy level brightness, not ambient. I back stabbed Pin 17 courtesy light in the BCM connector with 20 AWG solid and then connected 24 AWG stranded to each light strip. I have no insight on how to remove...

I tried to again test tonight to see if the footwell lamps were too bright and I got total failure on the after-market lamps. Factory courtesy still worked. I am going to redo the after-market harness tomorrow and take some measurements. Most importantly I will be soldering all connections...

I appreciate the feedback. I am pretty sure that PLC stands for Programmable Logic Controller. What that is, is beyond me. RTU I cannot even begin to guess.

Not sure. Battery Neg was disconnected and I was doing continuity test on the front side of the connector to the BCM which was disconnected from the BCM proper. If I had to guess, there would be 12V on the circuit when the door is closed and the connector plugged to the BCM but no potential...

Am I just too dumb to figure this out? I have above average understanding of electrical stuff, which aint saying much. I need a constant HOT to drive the lamps independent of the key switch position. Door open = Lights ON. If the door had a body GND, then Door Open = Circuit closed and I am...

Tested with Battery Negative disconnected just in case. Tapped pin 29 & 32 on the BCM harness and confirmed they are body GND but unfortunately I got continuity with the doors closed, not open as I expected. I can do something with a relay, I guess.

That is how I read the 2022 Maverick schematic. That the GN-VT (drivers/LH side still can't find exactly the passenger side) is a body ground switch that is closed circuit when the door is opened. I am trying to add some additional courtesy lamps to the footwell when the door is opened. I will...

I got a refurb Surface (not Pro) from Amazon that worked great for $99. Some sort of Atom processor but it works fine. Full size USB for data. USB-micro apparently only charging. Kick stand for setting it up on the instrument cluster. Pre-loaded with Win 10 Pro. Touch-screen fixes the thing...