I legit do not believe there’s airspace behind the seat for that. I do have the B&O factory stuff in the way of mounting stuff, but it’s gonna be hard to fit that in with the minimum recommended even in sealed enclosure.
The T-harness I bought and confirmed it works is PAC APH-FD02. You must keep the B&O amp connected and you have to shave the guide off the clip. It’s super easy and does not make it irreversible. I’ll be doing some wire cleanup tomorrow and I’ll post some images.
So I was trying to hook this thing up to the factory speakers. Ford has changed the data connection now. The PAC works with a micro usb but that is not what my truck has! Currently the only way to add aftermarket full system is hi level input. I verified it with a local shop who did some...
Dude for real! I received a lot of the gear at about 6 last night. I decided to knock out the doors because I had plenty of daylight. One of the cheap door speakers is torn!! From the factory!
I agree that with no sub powering the rear is absolutely necessary!
For bi-amping components, the crossovers get left out. The KEY does all of their work instead. I’ve never used one before but I’m pretty stoked to.
I just ordered all the gear to replace the B&O in my 2025. I went Lariat just for the “premium” stereo but it is just not like any other B&O I’ve heard. The only component that isn’t going to be Kicker is the PAC AmpPro. I’m doing bi-amp on the KS components, removing power from the rear and...
Good stuff!
I got it itchy and dropped all the big stuff into a shopping cart. I should be able to build a system next week. I’ve been saving for it anyway. I will keep watching this thread though because it is down right awesome.
This brand is super great.
https://garagebaggerstereo.com/products/mmats-pro-audio-mbw690-6x9-subwoofer
I’m not sure the amp could push it and the mounting depth may be a problem.