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I doubt you were over 4000 ft elevation anywhere on that route. Hills on the East coast don't quite match those in the Rockies!

GCVWR Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating Is what matters. If you tow.....anything.... you should scale the vehicle and what it tows. Costs under $15 at about any truck stop. You will likely be surprised at the actual total weight! I would not be surprised if your "empty" Maverick is not...

That might work on something with a frame. But hit a deer with that attached to the Maverick sheet metal and you will have a LOT of work to do to the front end.....

Bottom line is that the extra load ( more than you would imagine due to extreme offsets) likely contributed to the failure. ANYTIME you modify a vehicle still under warranty, at least have the original parts on hand to put it back stock if a major failure occurs. I have put back stock exhaust...

There is NO absolute answer. Start with what you are towing with. If a Class A diesel with air brakes, you have systems that will use the coach brake air pressure to apply brakes. Everything else means either a mechanical surge type linkage, a system that makes its own air pressure, or those...

I have over 7,000 miles flat towing my Lariat Maverick currently. Heading out in a few weeks on a 4000+ trip. Never failed to come out of neutral tow. Did fail to show neutral tow available twice on one trip, but found the cause of that was a hangup on my braking system causing the brake pedal...

This is the method I have used for my last 3 toads. While I get that the diodes SHOULD work, and that tapping into the factory wiring SHOULD NOT cause problems, the fact is that anytime you tap into a factory wiring harness there IS a chance for errors and failures over time. Plus the Blue Ox...

I would be interested to know how much slack is in the hitch setups that involve this wobble condition. Can you wiggle the hitch left/right by hand with no load on it where it goes into the receiver? Is there slack left to right in any other component of the towbar ( my NSA Ready Brute II is...

One thing I noticed when I was running the Ready Brute/NSA mechanical braking system is to be aware of slack in the towbar/baseplate system. I had trouble getting the Maverick to release fully the brakes on occasion when running the Blue Ox baseplate. I now know that the Blue Ox was bending...

I switched to the Roadmaster baseplate after my Blue Ox baseplate catastrophic failure. Not the Demco as it was not in stock. BUT...I think for the purpose of what you are asking it will be the same result. I simply LOVE the mechanical braking package of the Ready Brute! I also use their...

Simple. I removed about an inch of insulation on the wire, doubled the wire, bent it to a 90 degree angle, then used a very small hose clamp to hold it against the jump post.

As far as I know the "electric" brake assist on the Maverick is NOT active during the Neutral Tow function. You still have braking without it, just not the assist ( sort of like power steering).

Yes, avoid the Blue Ox base plate for Mavericks. Blue Ox makes some really good equipment. The Blue Ox base plate for a Maverick is not their best engineering. They cost me the price of the base plate, damaged fascia, and a lot of time for installation. Refuse to even refund for the base plate...

There is no vacuum brake booster on the Maverick. Won't work, because the Maverick can drive without the engine running to pull a vacuum. The Maverick has electric brake assist. There will be no reliable source of vacuum even if you tap into an intake manifold port. The engine isn't running...

Well, I will have to see what is needed to go directly. I have read that the jump post isn't directly hard wired to the positive post. But I have not verified that. I assumed the battery monitor might be inline. But you know what happens when one assumes.....

My motorhome has the "battery charge" wire in the factory 7 pin connector and it is live as delivered. No need to wire anything on that side. On the 6 pin round connector that you will have on front of the Maverick, typically the "battery charge" will be the center pin in the connector. But...

I used 14g wire. Cut off about 2" of insulation, doubled over the wire. Then clamped it to the post with a small u bolt clamp made for wire rope. BUT.... The more I think about the charging wire and how Ford has the battery set up I am going to go directly to the battery positive post when I...

I don't know for a fact, but suspect the "Battery Charge" line in a 7 pin RV connection may have a regulator built into it. One purpose would be to limit current flow ( that is a small wire to hook directly to a depleted battery) and regulate just enough voltage to keep the system in a charged...

I don't see how you could have a brake stuck on WITHOUT the brake pedal being depressed ( even slightly). Unless you have a sticking caliper, but that would likely only be one position. The dash led will show when the brake pedal is depressed even slightly. If it shows to light in normal...

Once again, installing a brake light monitor on the dash of the coach would eliminate the expensive failures. If the brake light LED on the dash is on, the brakes are on in the Maverick. No matter which system you use, an led tapped into the factory brake light wire WILL let you know when the...