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Boards just arrived! Got 1 more day of CES, so I'll start assembling in the next few weeks. I have 10 total boards, so if anyone wants a bare board - just ask! Board fits perfectly in the test 3D printed enclosure - everything lines up really nice! It's small - 2" x 4"...:)

How do those look when the doors are open? I'm looking for a broad "splash" of light from the rails under the doors, so it's good doors open or closed.

Yeah, they cut a lot of corners to get the price down low. I looked at adding them to the mirrors, it would be possible to do so with a single wire. But I wanted to put them next to the rail underneath the doors, so if I move the doors - I don't move my puddle light, too!

OK, I've finished up the mechanicals. It's 2 pieces, an upper and a lower housing. Held together with three 3mm x 30mm long plastic screws (available from www.mcmaster.com). I plan to 3D print the two halves, black on the bottom and medium blue on the top (to match my truck), with my FDM...

So, PCB is laid out, I've slept on it for a week, I and I can't think of any changes I want. Sure, I could put filter caps and protection diodes all around, but - nah. Build it and it's done. Performance won't be better. So - here's the rest, it's time to order boards! On annotated layout...

Yeah, I like your solution - simple and easy! I wanted to add a bit more "flexibility". I bought a smart accent light kit (Amazon ASIN B0CJTYSPKH) and it works really well. Can adjust the color and brightness. Have it temporarily wired to a 12VDC to 5VDC adapter, via fuse 3 in the BCM...

You're welcome! I'm doing this for me, but would love to add features that others find helpful. I'd prefer type C as well, but the type A is a lot easier to solder, and allows for more flexibility. Like I noticed with many automotive accessories, they're using a built-in type A connector...

OK, a few updates: 1. Move to two 6 pin headers - one for inputs (power, ground, dome light, low beams, puddle light constant, underseat switch) and one for outputs (ambient lights, puddle lights, underseat lights). 2. Added a USB type A output, good for 2 amps. It is ONLY on if the mood...

Yeah, that could work too! I can mod the circuit to have a remote "in" for the puddle lights, so a switch you can toggle if needed. I wanted to avoid adding any loads to the existing wiring, because before you know it - you've got 17 things hanging off a single circuit and start going 'what...

So, the schematic is done. A quick board layout is in order. This means choosing connectors and such. I chose two different connectors to use: - RJ45 (Ethernet) for wiring from the BCM to behind the rear seat - Pluggable terminal block for all else Why RJ45 and CAT5 cables? Easy - small...

ELECTRICAL THEORY What I want, is a solid state switch. Effectively a switch which can carry a pretty beefy load, without straining the existing signals I want to use. An electrically controlled switch. Lots of people would say "just use a relay", but relays can pull significant current (50+...

Hi all, long time lurker, short-time Maverick Owner (2024 XLT Hybrid, bought August 6, 2024). Got the usual mods done - bed cover, rubber floor mats, dash cam, etc. and now want to add some nice features. 1. Interior ambient/mood lighting. Love this on my wife's 2015 Mustang. Subtle lighting...