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I hear you and totally agree with the sentiment on most things - the loudest voices are those upset / no one goes out of their way to say things are fine. But I would disagree that’s it’s statistically a “minority”. Battery issues are prevalent with the model based not just on the many user...

I hope so. And I think that would make sense from their perspective given done under warranty. I have a 2024 (picked up January). So not great - 2.5 years and 40K before they went.

Exactly the question I will have at pickup. Common as in - will need replaced every 30 to 40 or just stocks are going “early”.

Update! The dealer indicated it is indeed bad CVs. Said it is a “common issue” with Mavericks. Assume they mean at this mileage. They are going to replace under powertrain warranty.

Appreciate the help / thoughts! Will see what Ford says. The idea that misbalance may have sped-up an existing CV issue sounds solid. I agree. Going to put some more air in there to see it that helps too. Otherwise, will check the torque as you suggested and maybe even get road-force...

So this was one of my first questions. IE - Is it just that the tyres I put on will result in vibration and a more "rough" ride. I know the stocks are intended to create a smooth ride. PIRELLI SCORPION AS PLUS 3 225/65R17 102H

I hear you. I did push them already - took it there and had them check / they ended up rebalancing. Unsure what else it could be in relation to the tyres TBH. And the symptoms seem to point elsewhere. So taking to dealer for warranty work. But yes - will be taking back to tyre shop and pushing...

It’s not noise. Actually - no noise. Vibration. Only happening when accelerating. Tyres are the same when coating or accelerating. If tyre I would think that wouldn’t matter - maybe speed but not disappear without drive. Also not coming from wheel - which is usually an indicator of tyre issue...

I noticed it after my new tyres. But I have had the balance checked. Plus, it is not coming from steering wheel. Feels like from center / engine.

Should be disconnect the negative. Much safer. If the disconnected positive cable touches any grounded metal on the truck, it will create a direct short to the battery’s negative - which can cause sparks, blown fuses, fire, etc.

Tender to avoid having all settings reset. It’s just easier. Otherwise / if you don’t care about that, both will work fine. But definitely do one of those. Six weeks is a long time for any vehicle battery to sit - yet alone the Mav with known issues here.

That’s the thing - only 36K.

Just trying to get a gauge on if something is my imagination or not. I know the real answer here is go to a mechanic. 😉 I get (what I think) is heavy vibration from the center of the truck - not the steering wheel - when accelerating medium / hard. Especially happens at high speeds but also at...

Yeah - why I didn’t mention it. But fair point. Just there for those of us that have the base 2024 XL Hybrid without any fancy additions. 😆

For anyone coming here / redirected here from a search - there's good news and bad news on the trailer hitch light "solution" for an XL Hybrid. Bad news - confirmed that a 2024 XL Hybrid does not have any of those safety features. Good news - there's no safety features to stop working and...

No need for all that. I did go back through the thread and either missed it or it didn’t hit me. You can also ignore a let someone else respond. Thought the point here was to help and discuss. But okay. Thanks.

Sorry. Not sure I understand. I have automatic (day-time running) lights on all the time. Is that what you mean? Or literally turn them “on” and leave that way? And they will stay on upon exit but shut off after a set time (10 - 15 minutes)? And this does the same thing as the tailgate light...

I believe I do. A shame because that is a “good” solution but likely not worth disable safety features. So OP is saying this truly forces the truck into charging appropriately? Any other downside other than the unintended safety features being disabled?

Nope. Just a plain old mirror. In fact, it's manual - have to stick my hand out the window to adjust!

Understood. So yeah - you can go to a local mechanic no problem. Again, if you are a bit worried about it - ask them to use OME parts. But I doubt that is really even something to worry about. I have a 110K warranty. Currently at 40K. Other than the first two completed at dealer, I get all my...