First oil change (rounded kilometers, not exact conversions)


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That's a lot more than "I've never seen it". I'd hate for a surgeon to tell me (even if it were true :))
'Rarely does someone die during these procedures, and the number of times they do afterward, is very small'
I have no POV to share on the larger conversation but I gotta say, if I had a surgeon that DIDN'T tell me "rarely, people die during this procedure", I'd get another one, because that's an honest answer.
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TRUCKHEF

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Honestly oil filters can get particles down into the microns, 20 or so I believe. I'm super OCD and will be keeping this truck for 10+ years so before pickup I'll be getting some magnets to pop on the pan if its not composite, a magnetic drain plug after the first oil change, and filter magnets as well.

Also some liquimoly friction modifiers into the oil. Also will be doing a transmission fluid flush at 10k with a change or clean up of filter for that too. Heck throw some magnets on the transmission too...

http://www.filtermag.com/
 
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Rob Cactus Gray

Rob Cactus Gray

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Honestly oil filters can get particles down into the microns, 20 or so I believe. I'm super OCD and will be keeping this truck for 10+ years so before pickup I'll be getting some magnets to pop on the pan if its not composite, a magnetic drain plug after the first oil change, and filter magnets as well.

Also some liquimoly friction modifiers into the oil. Also will be doing a transmission fluid flush at 10k with a change or clean up of filter for that too. Heck throw some magnets on the transmission too...

http://www.filtermag.com/
Are you an Amsoil guy as well? Stuff it fantastic from my own experience.
 

DryHeat

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I've heard (and followed) the advice to "vary the engine speed" during break-in.

But... I'm wondering how that advice works out with a hybrid and an eCVT. I had a regular CVT some time back and it seems like the RPM stayed pretty constant whether I was going 50 or 70. It changed sometimes on hills, but I'm not sure I want to go looking for hills just for break-in.

Anyone have any info on how this works with hybrid-eCVT?
 

BDennis

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I've heard (and followed) the advice to "vary the engine speed" during break-in.

But... I'm wondering how that advice works out with a hybrid and an eCVT. I had a regular CVT some time back and it seems like the RPM stayed pretty constant whether I was going 50 or 70. It changed sometimes on hills, but I'm not sure I want to go looking for hills just for break-in.

Anyone have any info on how this works with hybrid-eCVT?
Good point
 

Sliphorn

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I've heard (and followed) the advice to "vary the engine speed" during break-in.

But... I'm wondering how that advice works out with a hybrid and an eCVT. I had a regular CVT some time back and it seems like the RPM stayed pretty constant whether I was going 50 or 70. It changed sometimes on hills, but I'm not sure I want to go looking for hills just for break-in.

Anyone have any info on how this works with hybrid-eCVT?
..
Works the same way but perhaps a good idea to do a fair amount of acceleration/deceleration. Gas on gas off. Doing that loads things up which is what you want.
..
 

Edge Haley

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I'll change my oil according to the manual.
Seems so absurd not to follow the Owner's Manual. I've picked up at least 12 vehicles directly from the manufacturer of the car, each time doing a walk-around on break-in recommendations - their parting words were always, follow the Owner's Manual...

the manufacturer should know better than anyone else on the planet what is best during a break in period....and what spec motor oil to use.
 
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Rob Cactus Gray

Rob Cactus Gray

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Seems so absurd not to follow the Owner's Manual. I've picked up at least 12 vehicles directly from the manufacturer of the car, each time doing a walk-around on break-in recommendations - their parting words were always, follow the Owner's Manual...

the manufacturer should know better than anyone else on the planet what is best during a break in period....and what spec motor oil to use.
Planned obsolescence.
 

mav_can

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Planned obsolescence.
I get what you're saying, but manufacturers also warrant their cars for years. The only scenario where the owner's manual is not the best maintenance schedule is if an issue in that first 1000 miles somehow stays totally undetected until 5 years down the road. The chances of such an issue seem astronomically low to me.
 
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Rob Cactus Gray

Rob Cactus Gray

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I get what you're saying, but manufacturers also warrant their cars for years. The only scenario where the owner's manual is not the best maintenance schedule is if an issue in that first 1000 miles somehow stays totally undetected until 5 years down the road. The chances of such an issue seem astronomically low to me.
You’re assuming they will fix a small issue under warranty. My Prius manual says 1qt per thousand mile oil burn is normal.

manuals have said “lifetime” fluids before too 👌. Lifetime only has to be longer than warranty
 

thunaman

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Honestly oil filters can get particles down into the microns, 20 or so I believe. I'm super OCD and will be keeping this truck for 10+ years so before pickup I'll be getting some magnets to pop on the pan if its not composite, a magnetic drain plug after the first oil change, and filter magnets as well.

Also some liquimoly friction modifiers into the oil. Also will be doing a transmission fluid flush at 10k with a change or clean up of filter for that too. Heck throw some magnets on the transmission too...

http://www.filtermag.com/
Keep in mind that the engine is Aluminum which is a non ferrous material and as such a magnet will not remove pieces of aluminum from the oil. this is not to say that a magnet is a bad idea its just not foolproof.
 

TRUCKHEF

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Keep in mind that the engine is Aluminum which is a non ferrous material and as such a magnet will not remove pieces of aluminum from the oil. this is not to say that a magnet is a bad idea its just not foolproof.
you are 100% correct the block is aluminum but many other wear parts, camshaft, crankshaft, piston rings, oil pump/chains and whatever else may be there usually are ferrous, I'm going to be as OCD as possible and throw magnets wherever I can.
 

Brian_J

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you are 100% correct the block is aluminum but many other wear parts, camshaft, crankshaft, piston rings, oil pump/chains and whatever else may be there usually are ferrous, I'm going to be as OCD as possible and throw magnets wherever I can.
Check out dimple drain plugs. I’ve put them in 2 cars and 2 motorcycles now and they have STRONG magnets!
 
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