What a Shine - CGM Maverick -- Ceramic or Great Wax Job?

[sdr.speng]

Anyone know how this shine was processed - Ceramic or Great Wax Job?

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[Red Ryder]

My guess is a clean vehicle with a good polish and wax (carnauba, ceramic, whatever) and further enhanced by photographic post-processing (including mild HDR), similar to this photo which was done to a lesser degree:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/attachments/escape_1_mail-jpg.3004/

 

[sdr.speng]

My guess is a clean vehicle with a good polish and wax (carnauba, ceramic, whatever) and further enhanced by photographic post-processing (including mild HDR), similar to this photo which was done to a lesser degree:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/attachments/escape_1_mail-jpg.3004/

Thanks - Hope I can get mine to shine this much.

 

[martyi48]

You can achieve this kind of look on a color such as this by prepping the truck with a good shampoo (there are many). Then polish with P21s paintwork cleanser followed by a couple coats of Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. Guaranteed!!

 

[Rr317]

Realistically this is a marketing/show vehicle. They tend to have much more Clearcoat than your typical vehicle. Though I agree that something like collenite or a ceramic coating would get you close. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8oHqtUu199po1q628
Here's where I got with a light polish and ceramic spray coating on an iconic silver escape.

 

[fishinmagician]

this picture has a filter on it

 

[22Mav]

Realistically this is a marketing/show vehicle. They tend to have much more Clearcoat than your typical vehicle. Though I agree that something like collenite or a ceramic coating would get you close. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8oHqtUu199po1q628
Here's where I got with a light polish and ceramic spray coating on an iconic silver escape.

First off, that's some good depth for silver, congrats.

Second, where are you finding additional clearcoat on these demo units? I'm not buying that one. At most, this particular one may just have an employee who carrys around a microfiber and some quik detailer. There's not extra clearcoat on these trucks..

 

[22Mav]

That's the beauty of clean CGM and maybe a lil filter on the photo. It has a nice shine and good depth when it's clean. Shouldn't be hard to replicate this look once you take delivery.

 

[SgtLip]

I really doubt they went through the trouble of ceramic coating it, that's a lot of working prep.

It's most likely what @22Mav said, microfiber and detail spray. Of course there has to be a good shampoo and wax base coat for the detail spray to work that good.

But it looks magnificent.

 

[Rr317]

First off, that's some good depth for silver, congrats.

Second, where are you finding additional clearcoat on these demo units? I'm not buying that one. At most, this particular one may just have an employee who carrys around a microfiber and some quik detailer. There's not extra clearcoat on these trucks..

Typically autoshow vehicles have a more beefy paint job than that of a retail unit, especially early marketing vehicles. I live in the Detroit area and have family at each of the big 3, so they are my source. Obviously they could be wrong but I trust them.

Thank you for the compliment btw. I'm pretty proud of where I got with that escape.

 

[FINESSE605]

Anyone know how this shine was processed - Ceramic or Great Wax Job?

Further enhanced with photo editing but it could be all of those to help the depth pop. But i will say with good ceramic coatings and adding a sealant on maintenance washes such as hyper seal gloss enhancer etc. it will really pop! Certain paints more then others. - I was a previous Opti-Coat Pro installer.

 

[Edge Haley]

Have done 3 ceramic coating on 3 different vehicles/motorcycles.
Application difficulty is grossly overrated. Anyone can do a ceramic coating.

Basics: (On cars 1, 2 or more years old) Cars with rough/bad paint imo are not worth ceramic coating...just use a PASTE Cleaner Wax. Apply ceramic coating in cool or shaded area. I'd recommend not using electric buffers, unless you truly know what you are doing. It's easy to screw up paint with a buffer.

1. Wash and scrub paint with pads or rags with Dawn extra strength liquid soap to get old wax off...making sure to wash off dirty tires, bumpers and trim that may retain dirt. Hose down thoroughly to wash off soap. I use a leaf blower to blow off any washing water drops.
2. Apply liberally- "Rust-oleum Wax and Tar Remover" ($4.00), apply by rubbing every square inch of paint. Will also clean plastic and rubber surfaces.
3. Remove Rust-oleum film with a full bottom of Isoprop. Alcohol with clean microfiber rags....took me 5 or 6 rags to keep them clean. For me this is the most work.

4. Buy top quality micro-fiber rags...very high threat count...they are around $5-9 each but necessary. Some Micro fiber rags are for glass, some for applying wax, you want to microfiber made for high buffing paint.
5. Buy (plan on around $100 for a good brand ceramic coating) and apply Ceramic Coating "WITH INCLUDED APPLICATOR" (very important), over 2 or 3 square foot sections at a time.
6. Hand Buff off immediately - Ceramic Coating (2-3 sq feet at a time...and repeat for whole car.)
7. When finished Ceramic Coatings usually have a final coat chemical that is also applied in 2-4 sq feet sections and buff off as you go.

Total time for a Porsche Cayman S - 3.5 hours (I was quoted $1,000 for material and labor)...so did it myself...from the direction of a professional detailer.

After 3 cars I found Ceramic coating does NOT MAKE A CAR SHINE anymore than McGuires, or other good waxes....it simply keeps the wax beading water for at lease 2 years in my case. It is simply a very hard coating compared to regular paste waxes.

Rinse the car with garden hose usually works to wash the car but if it is dirty there are several "ceramic coating soaps" that not only wash the crude off but refresh the ceramic coating and makes it last longer. Porsche was ceramic coated 2 years ago and still looks like a new wax job when sprayed with a garden hose. But after washing you still have to wipe down to get the water beading off...other wise it will leave water spots. I just do a "spirited drive down the interstate." to blow off the water beads or use the leaf blower...a drive is much easier, and more effective.

I my case I will probably wait 3 or 4 months for the Mavericks paint to totally cure before doing a ceramic coating....FYI all cars get a protective coating leaving the factory, that needs to be taken off with something like Rust-oleim Wax and Tar Remover before applying ceramic coatings.

Best piece of advice: By a "ceramic coating kit", that includes everything needed - ceramic coating, applicator for each (2) chemicals, plenty of rags, and initial supply of ceramic car wash soap. ($100-+). Most have to buy extra micro-fiber rags.

If you can wax a car you can apply ceramic coating....it is no worse than waxing a vehicle 3 three times all at one sitting. Once finished it is best to leave the vehicle inside in cool temperature and away from dust for at least 24 hours to let the ceramic coating harden.....after 3 or 4 years I will probably redo the Porsche...and starting with the Rust-oliem Wax and Tar remover to remove the ceramic coating, and just repeat the steps...

One order of Ceramic Coating ($100+-) will usually do 2 medium sized vehicles.

 

[ColoradoShooter]

Wet sanded clear coat., compound, polish, wax and glaze.

 

[Hoosierdaddy]

You can achieve this kind of look on a color such as this by prepping the truck with a good shampoo (there are many). Then polish with P21s paintwork cleanser followed by a couple coats of Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. Guaranteed!!

I've used that before, it does do wonders on dark colors !!! and , as an electrician, I kind of have a connection with it there LOL.

I've developed a thing for Meguires M21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0. here lately.
Makes dark colors really deep and , as I heard it best described, "leaves a buttery smooth" finish.
Not that you should be touching it at all, lol!
I can't wait to try it on my AMB Bronco if it ever gets here.

I've learned to do what ever correction as needed, re-wash with Dawn to remove any compounds, then apply the M21, it will last several months if taken care of.... no machine carwashes, only by hand using a good auto soap.

I've yet to try any ceramics. Really interested though. Especially considering my BRUTAL work environment where it gets parked. A steel mill....

 

[Red Ryder]

You can achieve this kind of look on a color such as this by prepping the truck with a good shampoo (there are many). Then polish with P21s paintwork cleanser followed by a couple coats of Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. Guaranteed!!

That old Escape in my post above was about ten years old and had ~200,000 miles on it when that photo was taken. It spent its entire existence outdoors.
It was maintained by polishing with 3M 39007 Imperial Hand Glaze topped with Collinite 845 Insulator Wax.

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