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Mach 1

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I dont know if its a measure of voltage which matters, but i can tell you this it wont take long for galvanic corrosion to jump on that connection. Just the dissimilar metals are enough for it to happen, then add voltage, environmental, and temperature and ya got a mixed cocktail.
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KeinoDoggy

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What everyone is missing is a 12v not 110 big difference
Voltage is not the main factor. Different metals react to different temperatures causing galvanic corrosion. Even at 12 volt.
 

MakinDoForNow

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Titanium? Can't tell if you're kidding or not. :oops:

Cheers.
I have no idea what it is nor what it is anchored to but the anchor is in a location which should not have any corrosion (rust). There are many things it could be made of and I am sure that the most economical and compatible material available is what is used. I would like to know how the harness is made including the connector as well as the post and nut and what metals or alloys are present. Everything should be well designed and tested before maverick was even thought about and most likely a production error happened. Could be that the wrong flux was used or not the proper amount or the solder joint was not adequately cleaned afterwards. Or many other things. I chose reference to titanium because post I responded to mentioned iron which has one pair of electrons in it's outer orbit whereas titanium has two pair. (Unpaired electrons will allow atom to oxidize easier whereas paired electrons spin in opposite directions and bond to each other and resist oxidation). 🤔
 

skinnyboy

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I have no idea what it is nor what it is anchored to but the anchor is in a location which should not have any corrosion (rust). There are many things it could be made of and I am sure that the most economical and compatible material available is what is used. I would like to know how the harness is made including the connector as well as the post and nut and what metals or alloys are present. Everything should be well designed and tested before maverick was even thought about and most likely a production error happened. Could be that the wrong flux was used or not the proper amount or the solder joint was not adequately cleaned afterwards. Or many other things. I chose reference to titanium because post I responded to mentioned iron which has one pair of electrons in it's outer orbit whereas titanium has two pair. (Unpaired electrons will allow atom to oxidize easier whereas paired electrons spin in opposite directions and bond to each other and resist oxidation). 🤔
Agreed, titanium is quite resistant to oxidation. Unfortunately it's expensive and challenging to work with. Unlikely to find it on a mass produced economy vehicle.

Cheers.
 

Lucarl

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Well since my dealer refuses to acknowledge that a problem exists, I guess I'm getting no closer to a fix.
Update: When the truck arrived to tow my vehicle, we popped open the compartment to put it in neutral and guess what? No red pull cable. So now we're waiting for a truck with wheel lifts and a dolly.
 

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Allen King Jr

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ychuck46

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I am keeping a log of this issue with our Maverick hybrid to use with our dealer and Ford. So far I have been doing so for 16 days, capturing the voltage at the posts when the truck goes into Deep Sleep mode, the times/days I have to jump it, how often I get the "remote features disabled" text (the precursor to getting the Deep Sleep text in a few hours), and where I drove and how long. The Remote Features Disabled message is now starting to come up immediately after turning the truck off. I thought it would only be when we drove into town and around and back, which is only ten miles in each direction. Now I get the message immediately after turning the truck off no matter how far we drive, even 60-70 miles on the highway at 75 mph. Today I have gotten it 5 times already, which is the number of times we have turned it on, driven, and turned it off. I suspect the problem of the bleeding out of voltage is getting worse.
 

Mach 1

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Titanium is very tough to machine, its not ideal for electrical conductivity.

I can say this, there is a hodge podge of different materials in the circuit between the battery and the destination of the electricity. Just thru the buss bar/fusebox/cables there is SEVERAL connections. Not good electrical 101.
 

clavicus

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Update: When the truck arrived to tow my vehicle, we popped open the compartment to put it in neutral and guess what? No red pull cable. So now we're waiting for a truck with wheel lifts and a dolly.
I experienced that too! I actually pulled a cord that I thought was the cable it turns out it was the wireless charging pad wiring harness or something, I'm glad I didn't really give it my all. Luckily we tried jumping it and it booted up just fine, drove it into position and then hit the power button and it sank back into the dreamless void.

Does anyone know how to put a dead hybrid Maverick in neutral?
 
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glider

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If Fords entry level engineer did such a bad job with engineering the harness, why isn’t anyone checking out the other end of it?
Makes the whole harness suspect.
 

Oldguy66

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Cudos to the Tech. I really appreciate the Tech putting out the video of his repair. He did a great job and got the customer’s car working again which is way more than Ford is doing. I think the real question is: What is a viable permanent fix?

For the Tech’s temporary fix, maybe some anti-oxidant compound would lengthen the integrity of his repair solution. In the old days, we used the GB Ox-Gard for copper to aluminum connections. This seemed to hold up pretty good.

My Maverick is in the shop for another issue so, I can't look at the harness routing. Would it be possible to run a separate copper cable along the harness (or elsewhere) and bypass the faulty cable altogether? Just a thought.

Ford Maverick Video: Hybrid Wiring Harness Failure (No Start / Crank) Repair. Excellent video GB OX-Gard


Ford Maverick Video: Hybrid Wiring Harness Failure (No Start / Crank) Repair. Excellent video OX-Gard
 

KeinoDoggy

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Cudos to the Tech. I really appreciate the Tech putting out the video of his repair. He did a great job and got the customer’s car working again which is way more than Ford is doing. I think the real question is: What is a viable permanent fix?

For the Tech’s temporary fix, maybe some anti-oxidant compound would lengthen the integrity of his repair solution. In the old days, we used the GB Ox-Gard for copper to aluminum connections. This seemed to hold up pretty good.

My Maverick is in the shop for another issue so, I can't look at the harness routing. Would it be possible to run a separate copper cable along the harness (or elsewhere) and bypass the faulty cable altogether? Just a thought.

GB OX-Gard.jpg


OX-Gard.jpg
https://www.menards.com/main/electr...pound-1-oz/ox-100b/p-1444431020925-c-6458.htm
 

Darnon

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So this is all the 12V system, not the high voltage system for the Hybrid side?
Yes. But without power to 12V the electronics aren't able to close the HV contactor. Once that's done the DC-DC converter is able to keep things running. That's why vehicles with this issue can be jumped, run fine, and are stone dead again next time to start.
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