Orientation of Add-a-Tap on Fuse 3 and Fuse 6 (Accessory / Ignition Only Power) [Spoiler: It's All Good]

[clavicus]

Please correct me if I messed up the terms or any information.

I was curious which of the Fuse 3 and Fuse 6 legs were line vs. load, as this can impact the isolation of the original system fuse from the added fuse when using a fuse tap. Since these Fuse 3 and Fuse 6 are both adjacent to some large plastic obstacles, there is only one orientation you can use a fuse tap in both of these cases.

It turns out, whether by design or happy coincidence, both fuse tap orientations are "correct". Fuse 3 bottom leg is line, and Fuse 6 top leg is line.

Video for the documentation.

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[RichMartMD]

I can't imagine the wires from those rearview mirror kits are long enough;
What gauge-size wire do you recommend to run from the mirror?

 

[clavicus]

I can't imagine the wires from those rearview mirror kits are long enough;
What gauge-size wire do you recommend to run from the mirror?

I believe you should be covered by 15 ft. That's what I used. You could use stranded 18ga (edit: with a 5amp fuse) -- the power draw from the mirror is so incredibly tiny. You could consider 16ga if you think you might use a 7.5amp fuse to support a high resolution dashcam with multiple cameras (front/rear/inside). Radar detector also maybe? You might as well use 16ga, stranded. The cost difference is negligible really, and there is plenty of room to hide a 2- or 3-conductor 16ga cable in the A-Pillar and behind headliner if I recall correctly.

EDIT: To clarify, the proper thing to do is to use wire that corresponds to your fuse. The fuse protects the wire. For example, if you use a 20amp fuse with 18ga wire it has the potential to literally melt the wire sheathing without blowing the fuse. Your 'tap fuse' that you add on to the circuit fuse should not exceed the original circuit fuse amp rating. It's ok for your tap fuse to be less than the circuit fuse, just not greater.

If you use
5 amp fuse: 18ga.
7.5 amp fuse: 16ga. I think.

You can also use a larger wire gauge on a smaller amperage. 16ga wire with 5 amp fuse is fine.

 

[Spook]

Does anyone know what kind of fuse type is number 24 in the cabin fuse box? If it is any other type than a micro 2, do they make fuse taps for that type? I need a source of accessory power for my 2 meter radio and this one is about the only one that has enough amperage to power it in the transmit mode. Right now, I have a direct to battery connection under the rear seat and am getting tired of forgetting to turn the radio off when I park.

 

[clavicus]

Does anyone know what kind of fuse type is number 24 in the cabin fuse box? If it is any other type than a micro 2, do they make fuse taps for that type? I need a source of accessory power for my 2 meter radio and this one is about the only one that has enough amperage to power it in the transmit mode. Right now, I have a direct to battery connection under the rear seat and am getting tired of forgetting to turn the radio off when I park.

24 is Micro2, constant battery.

I recommend getting a micro3 fuse tap for #1/3. Is unused by the system, accessory power. That’s the one I used for my dashcam, 5amp fuse in the tap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ND0SRZW

Dashcam install video has some info about it early in the video. Is super long so just look at the beginning of you’re interested.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-video-hardwire-front-and-rear-dashcam.10624/

 

[Spook]

24 is Micro2, constant battery.

I recommend getting a micro3 fuse tap for #1/3. Is unused by the system, accessory power. That’s the one I used for my dashcam, 5amp fuse in the tap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ND0SRZW

Dashcam install video has some info about it early in the video. Is super long so just look at the beginning of you’re interested.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-video-hardwire-front-and-rear-dashcam.10624/

Thanks for the quick answer. I was not aware that 24 was constant. The ones you mention are not enough amperage. When I key the mike, it actually pulls about 30 amps but I turned it back a bit to keep it at a lower level. That's why I was looking at 24.
I am open for suggestions for an accessory fuse that can handle 20 - 30 amps. Maybe the passenger door module, fuse 7, could handle it. I won't be transmitting while the passenger door or any of the functions on it are in use. Is that another Micro2 or something else?
If I have to, I am open to using the under hood fuse box if I have to.

 

[clavicus]

Thanks for the quick answer. I was not aware that 24 was constant. The ones you mention are not enough amperage. When I key the mike, it actually pulls about 30 amps but I turned it back a bit to keep it at a lower level. That's why I was looking at 24.
I am open for suggestions for an accessory fuse that can handle 20 - 30 amps. Maybe the passenger door module, fuse 7, could handle it. I won't be transmitting while the passenger door or any of the functions on it are in use. Is that another Micro2 or something else?
If I have to, I am open to using the under hood fuse box if I have to.

Sorry I misread your note about the radio. That question about amperage for that is out of my wheelhouse.

But you can see the fuse layout in the manual link. You can easily see which size each fuse is. I’ll try to find my notes about which fuses are accessory only.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...ingEnabled=False&userMarket=usa&buildtype=web

 

[Darnon]

If you're using that much you're probably better of running direct power through a high amp relay/solenoid triggered off a key on power source.

 

[Spook]

If you're using that much you're probably better of running direct power through a high amp relay/solenoid triggered off a key on power source.

That is one way to do it but I like to keep things simple. I have been installing radios in cars and other places since the 1970's. For most of the professional jobs, cost was not a big concern but now that I am retired, I try to keep the cost as low as possible for my own installations. Also, I don't have to rush to do it because someone else needs it done.

 

[Darnon]

A solenoid is a lot cheaper than potentially burning up your BCM, but you do you.

 

[Heyspike]

24 is Micro2, constant battery.

I recommend getting a micro3 fuse tap for #1/3. Is unused by the system, accessory power. That’s the one I used for my dashcam, 5amp fuse in the tap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ND0SRZW

Dashcam install video has some info about it early in the video. Is super long so just look at the beginning of you’re interested.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-video-hardwire-front-and-rear-dashcam.10624/

If we are using a fuse tap for a micro 2 style fuse, why use a micro 3? will it fit? I pulled #1 today and it is a Micro 2.
Thanks.

 

[clavicus]

If we are using a fuse tap for a micro 2 style fuse, why use a micro 3? will it fit? I pulled #1 today and it is a Micro 2.
Thanks.

Fuse 1/2 are both on the same micro3 fuse.

I misspoke before when i typed 1/3

 

[Heyspike]

Fuse 1/2 are both on the same micro3 fuse.

I misspoke before when i typed 1/3

Ok, I pulled the ones in the passenger side footwell. I plan on wiring my Valentine 1 in there, and route the cable better.

 

[Telemachus]

Fuse 6 in simple in accesable by any fuse tap I have tried. It needs an "extention" cord.

Like this:

Accelevision 6210PT Pre-wired 10 Amp Micro-2 Fuses (qualitymobilevideo.com)

 

[Montana]

Fuse 6 in simple in accesable by any fuse tap I have tried. It needs an "extention" cord.

Like this:

Accelevision 6210PT Pre-wired 10 Amp Micro-2 Fuses (qualitymobilevideo.com)

I noticed this today while trying to set mine up too. In OP's post the setup is all bent and forced in. How do these extensions work? Isn't that like adding 3 fuses if you tap into one?

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