My real truck can haul my motorcycles w/ help of custom metal tailgate support and level struts

[Atisko]

Thanks.

I have thought about the load on the Sheetmetal itself. Our cheap truck's skin seems strong but thin. The tailgate is rated at 400 pounds, I think. It's got quite a bit of indents forming ridges that ad strength also.

Lucky my bikes are light. 400 pounds for one and 500 for the other. So, weight per tire is roughly half with a little added force by the tie downs. I could put a support plate in that area to spread the weight over a larger area. Something like maybe 1/4 by 12 by 16 plate steel. Another solution is that I have another loading ramp that is steel, and I could put that under both wheels in the bed which would spread the weight evenly over a long narrow area of the bed and over the tailgate too. I don't haul bikes very often (about 4 times a year and less than 300 miles)so that might help too.

To three-quarter inch plywood would probably work fine.

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[More w/Les]

Plywood will work OK, just be careful and don’t use treated plywood, the chemicals they use, require that you only make contact with hot dipped galvanized or SS metal. It will eat up other metals and ruin your paint, especially moisture is involved. Don’t ask me how I know!





Les / aka: lesmeister & hpdl (herr professor doktor lesmeister)

 

[More w/Les]

Many on this forum (including me) do not like that the tailgate is not level with the bed and have shown the error (with pcitrues). It is real. What Ford does about it may be nothing.

As you know, Motorcycles want to roll on any non-level surface because they have round tires and will roll downhill. If my rear tire is 100% sitting on a downhill slop (like the non-level slanted down tailgate) and my front tire is on the level bed, then the rear wheel will want to roll backwards. I made it level with my supports because I think Ford should have made it level and I don't want extra force in the wrong direction.

Also, I don't think if I parked on level concrete that the truck's stance makes the tailgate level. Have you tried it? Until I actually do that, I think your idea about people's crockpots is a CROCK.

LOOKING FOR A TAILGATE LEVELER?

Did check my truck on level concrete, no sag or lift at rear when unloaded. Rear edge of the tailgate is not level with the bed, drops about 1.25”, see attached photo.

For those who are looking for a simple way to bring the ‘Mav’ tailgate level with the bed, think I found a solution. Know it will not satisfy everyone’s needs, but it may give you and idea of how to modify the concept to suit your needs, and if you want to make something else, the measurements could prove to be helpful.

As Ford provides two connection points for the tailgate cables, decided to see if I could find something in my ‘inventory’ that could be adapted to connect to the upper point. Need to do more research on the load limit for the top connector, it's also used for the tailgate latch, and doesn’t seem to be as substantial as the lower/main cable connection point. Probably won’t be a problem for my special use, as the tailgate will only have to support my weight, about 200 pounds. Most of the time I will continue to use the lower points.

Found an old motorcycle tie down strap with hooks that were the exact size needed. A quick, no tools required, easy fix. Do have some details to take care of. Will make up a spacer to keep the hook eye closer to the fender side of the top mounting point, and make up a wrap to cover the hook to tailgate cable connection, as it could rub against the taillight lens and/or the body. For my use don’t think I’ll need to secure the connections to keep them on the post or the cable eye in the hook, but it might be something others might wish to do.

Found out, on my truck the left cable has less tension than the right when using the hooks. Not sure if it is in the cables, the mounting points or the tailgate, was going to swap them from left to right to see if that made a difference, guess what? They are specific to each side and cannot be swapped. Bent the left hook a little and got most of it out.

Attached are several photos of the hooks in use on the truck, and several showing the measurements.

Overall length of the hook is 4 7/8”
The inside top to bottom length is 3.8”

The tie down strap was from a Kendon Industries (1-800-847-8618) motorcycle trailer, wasn’t using the strap, so sacrificed it to use the hooks.

I’m sure an enterprising individual could find, or make up something similar with the right dimensions, at not to great a cost.

As a side note, the factory cables need to be 7/16” longer to level the tailgate with the floor. Do be advised, on my truck, the center of the tailgate has a slight crown that is higher that the two outer edges (long sides).
Les / aka: lesmeister & hpdl (herr professor doktor lesmeister)

 

[BILLNOROVILLE]

More w/Les
Said, "Will make up a spacer to keep the hook eye closer to the fender side of the top mounting point"

Good idea using hooks. Quick and easy.

A spacer would strengthen your method as the hook has less chance to bend the mounting stud being closer to the bed side metal. That is why I put the little folded down hook in the upper end of my supports to keep it closer to the bed.

I noticed the tailgate cable wants to twist the hook on the stud. If you could bend the eye and hook at 90-degree angle on the hook it would take the twist out of it on the bed's mounting point.

I have thought of welding the top opening in the upper cable end then grind it down so it's just as thick as the original cable end. This would shorten how far the end slides over the mounting pin and thus raises the tailgate. My only concern can I weld enough material there to do the job and still have the cable end catch enough not to come off easily. Got to measure it again.

 

[MrHomeGuy]

Looks like a good solution. I have a different issue. My bike needs a minimum of 84 inches, so even with the tailgate down, I'm short a few. Thinking of making a side out platform that extends the length and can support a 550 pound bike.

 

[BILLNOROVILLE]

If you could find a 7ft loading ramp of steel, you could lay it in the bed (maybe bolt it in 2 places into bed where there might be reinforced cross members (no fuel tanks). Remove when not using it. That would spread the weight over a larger area and hold the front and rear down with the weight of the bike. Just an idea. 84inches would stick out of the back quite a bit more. Tie a red flag on it. Truck might do wheelies easily depending on how much weight past the rear axle. Joking ...

 

[nathan.wright]

I'm not sure why you say, "The tailgate sees "SOME" of the weight when the bike is loaded, but not much". Unless my Math is wacko, it says differently.

My Hawk has a 47.1%/52.9% distribution on weight (front tire/rear tire). That equals 194.05 pounds front/217.95 rear. The blue bike in the picture has the front tire 100% on the bed (194.5 pounds). The rear tire is 100% on the tailgate (217.95 pounds). Kickstand is up.

I can not find what the Rebel 1100 distribution is. But l will use 48%/52% somewhat like my Hawk. That puts 244.8 pounds on the front tire and 265.2 on the rear tire. If the rear tire is 100% sitting on the tailgate. You say, "not much", I say quite a bit.

Making a cable is far more involved that making what I made. I don't have the special ends needed to match the bed and tailgate attaching locations and I don't have the crimping tool to attach them. My supports were $4.00 and 2 hours of my time. Very cost effective.

Yes, I did say," I think the factory supports would be strong enough and have no concerns there". I did have a choice. I could have made my supports to be like the Ford cables (too long) and have a tilted tailgate or I could make the tailgate level. I chose to make it level.

Now you can say you actually have seen a pair in use. Doesn't mean you need a pair.

Well, I know I don't need a pair. I know people that weigh more than 217 lbs and I'd let them stand or sit on the tailgate. I find it interesting you don't seem to mention the loading and unloading of the motorcycle as the reason, when that scenario has more loading. Not only the weight of the bike, but the weight of yourself as well, since you use another stand to walk up with it!

Also, I say "some" of the weight bc for the 412 lbs your HAWK weighs, you say the tailgate only sees 217 of it. I would say that is "some" of the weight.

I think your aluminum angle rigid connections are a neat Idea!

 

[Edge Haley]

LOOKING FOR A TAILGATE LEVELER?

Did check my truck on level concrete, no sag or lift at rear when unloaded. Rear edge of the tailgate is not level with the bed, drops about 1.25”, see attached photo.

For those who are looking for a simple way to bring the ‘Mav’ tailgate level with the bed, think I found a solution. Know it will not satisfy everyone’s needs, but it may give you and idea of how to modify the concept to suit your needs, and if you want to make something else, the measurements could prove to be helpful.

As Ford provides two connection points for the tailgate cables, decided to see if I could find something in my ‘inventory’ that could be adapted to connect to the upper point. Need to do more research on the load limit for the top connector, it's also used for the tailgate latch, and doesn’t seem to be as substantial as the lower/main cable connection point. Probably won’t be a problem for my special use, as the tailgate will only have to support my weight, about 200 pounds. Most of the time I will continue to use the lower points.

Found an old motorcycle tie down strap with hooks that were the exact size needed. A quick, no tools required, easy fix. Do have some details to take care of. Will make up a spacer to keep the hook eye closer to the fender side of the top mounting point, and make up a wrap to cover the hook to tailgate cable connection, as it could rub against the taillight lens and/or the body. For my use don’t think I’ll need to secure the connections to keep them on the post or the cable eye in the hook, but it might be something others might wish to do.

Found out, on my truck the left cable has less tension than the right when using the hooks. Not sure if it is in the cables, the mounting points or the tailgate, was going to swap them from left to right to see if that made a difference, guess what? They are specific to each side and cannot be swapped. Bent the left hook a little and got most of it out.

Attached are several photos of the hooks in use on the truck, and several showing the measurements.

Overall length of the hook is 4 7/8”
The inside top to bottom length is 3.8”

The tie down strap was from a Kendon Industries (1-800-847-8618) motorcycle trailer, wasn’t using the strap, so sacrificed it to use the hooks.

I’m sure an enterprising individual could find, or make up something similar with the right dimensions, at not to great a cost.

As a side note, the factory cables need to be 7/16” longer to level the tailgate with the floor. Do be advised, on my truck, the center of the tailgate has a slight crown that is higher that the two outer edges (long sides).
Les / aka: lesmeister & hpdl (herr professor doktor lesmeister)

Great idea and thanks for sharing measurements. I have a Kendon trailer but see times where a bed haul could be needed.

 

[Jmav2152]

Do you think this would be needed for hauling dirtbikes? 1-2 bikes at most that weigh about 230lbs each is what I would do. Potentially i guess i could haul my KTM adv 1190r but i don't know how I feel about that yet.

 

[Dad]

Today I figured I would do a test and see what it would be like to haul one of my bikes. Granted my bikes are not as big as others have hauled but about as long.

I removed the Gator tri fold soft cover but left the bedrug mat in place. Next thing was to place metal struts that I had made to support the tailgate LEVEL (cables won't do that) because the short bed requires my motorcycle's rear wheel to sit on the tailgate. I had a 2002 Ford Sport Trac that also required that because it had a short bed too.

My Hybrid XLT Maverick payload it 1553 pounds including people and cargo. I use 2 long folding ramps, one to power the bike up into the bed and one for me to walk on to balance it at it goes up the other ramp. Getting a bike off does not require the bike running but I still use 2 ramps.

I tested my lightest (400 pounds) first, was a 1988 Honda Hawk GT650 (I also have an 89)that I have towed on a trailer and in my old Sport Trac. After loading and tying it down, I drove around the area for about 10 miles. The Maverick ran like nothing was in the back which I truly expected out of it.

When I got back home and unloaded the Hawk, I wanted to test my new (Last June) Honda 1100 Rebel DCT. It runs 502 pounds. I had never loaded it on a trailer or in a truck since I bought it. So, this was a FIRST. I parked it in the bed with at a little more angle because the wheelbase was about an inch longer. The rear tire rested close to center of the tailgate and closer to the right side. I did not tie it down and drive with it in the back. I can say that now I know that my little hybrid IS A TRUCK and can haul any of my 3 bikes.

Following writeup on tailgate support for hauling motorcycles (or loads) with tailgate level is copied from my other thread:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/tailgate-support-for-hauling-motorcycles-or-loads-with-tailgate-level.8510/

I had made a set for my Sport Trac because the short bed required my motorcycles to rest the bike's rear tire on the tailgate. These supports firmed that up and removed the weight on the cables. Commercial ones are available for some trucks but cost typically 99.00 a pair.

Today I build a set for my Maverick which I have not hauled a bike in yet but plan to do that soon. I will post a picture once I have a bike loaded.

I started with the same scrap 1/8-inch thick aluminum angle pieces from an Army Surplus store south of town that I had used before. I needed more so found more and paid 2.00 for each length of aluminum. I used 2 in this project.

Picture of support with bottom not attached gives you an idea that the tailgate will have to come up some for the bolt to line up. Once the bolt is out it is easy to align the holes. Yes, I made them so the tailgate will be level when in use. The factory straps will not be supporting any weight but still attached for safety.

These pictures show how I made the top attachment. They slide on then down prior to bolting the bottom in place. The bent over tang keeps the top part from moving toward the large end.

The bottom end has the top cut to clear the bed and duct tape on the inside to protect the paint when bolted in place by the one of the tailgate bolts that holds the tailgate latch in place. At star Allen head tool is required to remove the bolt and tighten it back down. The material was already narrowed at this end by the bolt but should still be plenty strong.

Wow! Very resourceful! I'm constantly amazed by the ingenuity of the folks on this forum. Thanks for sharing!

 

[BILLNOROVILLE]

Do you think this would be needed for hauling dirtbikes? 1-2 bikes at most that weigh about 230lbs each is what I would do. Potentially i guess i could haul my KTM adv 1190r but i don't know how I feel about that yet.

Not sure if anything is needed. Dirt bikes tend to be pretty light compared to street bikes. There was a Maverick pictured with 3 dirt bikes in the back. You will have to be the judge if you want to change up how the tailgate sits, level or drooping. And if you feel it needs something more, then make struts or use hook extenders or something of your own design.

 

[More w/Les]

Not sure if anything is needed. Dirt bikes tend to be pretty light compared to street bikes. There was a Maverick pictured with 3 dirt bikes in the back. You will have to be the judge if you want to change up how the tailgate sits, level or drooping. And if you feel it needs something more, then make struts or use hook extenders or something of your own design.

From what I have seen posted, the tailgate load limit is 400 pounds, evenly spread across the surface. My need was to load a 500 pound bike, so my weight and the weight of the bike, even when using two ramps, would probably exceed that limit. Another factor is that each of the bikes footprints (tyre patches) must carry the combined weight of the bike. So if the rear tire is on the tailgate (more than likely) it will be putting somewhere between 40-60% of the bikes weight on that area. Any bumps in the road will compound the problem by adding more pressure.

In my case the load on the bikes rear tire patch would be at least 200 pounds +-, pretty much dead center of the tailgate. I do some pretty long trips (1-2K) with the bike in the bed and just didn't want to take a chance of having problem on the road. I can fix most things when my tools, shop and friends are at hand, on the road it is another (usually EXPENSIVE) story.

Closer to home with lighter bikes and/or shorter distances, you can probably get by with the factory setup. It just depends on the individual and circumstances involved.

Would like to caution anyone thinking about using the upper tailgate cable mounting points, have not found the factory specs for the max load for these. However from what I can see, my experience tells me now to expect much, maybe half the rating for the lower points. Having one or both of those fail while carrying a bike could be a real problem, especially if in heavy traffic.

Getting an education is an expensive process, "Don't ask me how I know!"

Les / aka: lesmeister & hpdl (herr professor doktor lesmeister)

 

[Dad]

From what I have seen posted, the tailgate load limit is 400 pounds, evenly spread across the surface. My need was to load a 500 pound bike, so my weight and the weight of the bike, even when using two ramps, would probably exceed that limit. Another factor is that each of the bikes footprints (tyre patches) must carry the combined weight of the bike. So if the rear tire is on the tailgate (more than likely) it will be putting somewhere between 40-60% of the bikes weight on that area. Any bumps in the road will compound the problem by adding more pressure.

In my case the load on the bikes rear tire patch would be at least 200 pounds +-, pretty much dead center of the tailgate. I do some pretty long trips (1-2K) with the bike in the bed and just didn't want to take a chance of having problem on the road. I can fix most things when my tools, shop and friends are at hand, on the road it is another (usually EXPENSIVE) story.

Closer to home with lighter bikes and/or shorter distances, you can probably get by with the factory setup. It just depends on the individual and circumstances involved.

Would like to caution anyone thinking about using the upper tailgate cable mounting points, have not found the factory specs for the max load for these. However from what I can see, my experience tells me now to expect much, maybe half the rating for the lower points. Having one or both of those fail while carrying a bike could be a real problem, especially if in heavy traffic.

Getting an education is an expensive process, "Don't ask me how I know!"

Les / aka: lesmeister & hpdl (herr professor doktor lesmeister)

Ford specs are 500 pounds for the tailgate

 

[More w/Les]

Ford specs are 500 pounds for the tailgate

Thanks, thought I'd seen that in the OM, but several posters were quoting the 400 number, and hadn't taken the time to revisit the OM to check. Guess it's better to be quoting under than over if you are not sure.

Don't remember seeing a load rating for the upper cable points, so still looking for that number.

 

[BILLNOROVILLE]

Ford specs are 500 pounds for the tailgate

Thanks for the information. It made me curious enough to look closer at the owner's manual and here are the pages with the relevant information that I could find.

Page 82. This has the 500-pound load rating you mentioned for the tailgate load. But I noticed it is rated using the upper (middle position) commonly used for plywood carrying which More w/Les was wondering about these pin load ratings.

Nowhere did I find a rating at the lower standard cable position, and I really did look hard for that. Would it be rated less because the cable angle is sharper than at the middle position or could it also be 500 pounds. I'm not sure but I would think the cable would see more force give the same weight on the tailgate. I think Ford probably has a safety margin in these numbers that are listed.

Page 260. Interesting, also is that the tiedowns going across the tailgate should be used with tiedowns in the bed because it could detach the tailgate. Also, there is a load rating between the tailgate tiedowns of 400 pounds

Page 259. This last screen print has the ratings of the tiedowns between bed points A and B. I think there is an error in the last note as I think it means the same as the last note on page 260.

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