- Thread starter
- #1
Today I figured I would do a test and see what it would be like to haul one of my bikes. Granted my bikes are not as big as others have hauled but about as long.
I removed the Gator tri fold soft cover but left the bedrug mat in place. Next thing was to place metal struts that I had made to support the tailgate LEVEL (cables won't do that) because the short bed requires my motorcycle's rear wheel to sit on the tailgate. I had a 2002 Ford Sport Trac that also required that because it had a short bed too.
My Hybrid XLT Maverick payload it 1553 pounds including people and cargo. I use 2 long folding ramps, one to power the bike up into the bed and one for me to walk on to balance it at it goes up the other ramp. Getting a bike off does not require the bike running but I still use 2 ramps.
I tested my lightest (400 pounds) first, was a 1988 Honda Hawk GT650 (I also have an 89)that I have towed on a trailer and in my old Sport Trac. After loading and tying it down, I drove around the area for about 10 miles. The Maverick ran like nothing was in the back which I truly expected out of it.
When I got back home and unloaded the Hawk, I wanted to test my new (Last June) Honda 1100 Rebel DCT. It runs 502 pounds. I had never loaded it on a trailer or in a truck since I bought it. So, this was a FIRST. I parked it in the bed with at a little more angle because the wheelbase was about an inch longer. The rear tire rested close to center of the tailgate and closer to the right side. I did not tie it down and drive with it in the back. I can say that now I know that my little hybrid IS A TRUCK and can haul any of my 3 bikes.
Following writeup on tailgate support for hauling motorcycles (or loads) with tailgate level is copied from my other thread:
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/tailgate-support-for-hauling-motorcycles-or-loads-with-tailgate-level.8510/
I had made a set for my Sport Trac because the short bed required my motorcycles to rest the bike's rear tire on the tailgate. These supports firmed that up and removed the weight on the cables. Commercial ones are available for some trucks but cost typically 99.00 a pair.
Today I build a set for my Maverick which I have not hauled a bike in yet but plan to do that soon. I will post a picture once I have a bike loaded.
I started with the same scrap 1/8-inch thick aluminum angle pieces from an Army Surplus store south of town that I had used before. I needed more so found more and paid 2.00 for each length of aluminum. I used 2 in this project.
Picture of support with bottom not attached gives you an idea that the tailgate will have to come up some for the bolt to line up. Once the bolt is out it is easy to align the holes. Yes, I made them so the tailgate will be level when in use. The factory straps will not be supporting any weight but still attached for safety.
These pictures show how I made the top attachment. They slide on then down prior to bolting the bottom in place. The bent over tang keeps the top part from moving toward the large end.
The bottom end has the top cut to clear the bed and duct tape on the inside to protect the paint when bolted in place by the one of the tailgate bolts that holds the tailgate latch in place. At star Allen head tool is required to remove the bolt and tighten it back down. The material was already narrowed at this end by the bolt but should still be plenty strong.
I removed the Gator tri fold soft cover but left the bedrug mat in place. Next thing was to place metal struts that I had made to support the tailgate LEVEL (cables won't do that) because the short bed requires my motorcycle's rear wheel to sit on the tailgate. I had a 2002 Ford Sport Trac that also required that because it had a short bed too.
My Hybrid XLT Maverick payload it 1553 pounds including people and cargo. I use 2 long folding ramps, one to power the bike up into the bed and one for me to walk on to balance it at it goes up the other ramp. Getting a bike off does not require the bike running but I still use 2 ramps.
I tested my lightest (400 pounds) first, was a 1988 Honda Hawk GT650 (I also have an 89)that I have towed on a trailer and in my old Sport Trac. After loading and tying it down, I drove around the area for about 10 miles. The Maverick ran like nothing was in the back which I truly expected out of it.
When I got back home and unloaded the Hawk, I wanted to test my new (Last June) Honda 1100 Rebel DCT. It runs 502 pounds. I had never loaded it on a trailer or in a truck since I bought it. So, this was a FIRST. I parked it in the bed with at a little more angle because the wheelbase was about an inch longer. The rear tire rested close to center of the tailgate and closer to the right side. I did not tie it down and drive with it in the back. I can say that now I know that my little hybrid IS A TRUCK and can haul any of my 3 bikes.
Following writeup on tailgate support for hauling motorcycles (or loads) with tailgate level is copied from my other thread:
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/tailgate-support-for-hauling-motorcycles-or-loads-with-tailgate-level.8510/
I had made a set for my Sport Trac because the short bed required my motorcycles to rest the bike's rear tire on the tailgate. These supports firmed that up and removed the weight on the cables. Commercial ones are available for some trucks but cost typically 99.00 a pair.
Today I build a set for my Maverick which I have not hauled a bike in yet but plan to do that soon. I will post a picture once I have a bike loaded.
I started with the same scrap 1/8-inch thick aluminum angle pieces from an Army Surplus store south of town that I had used before. I needed more so found more and paid 2.00 for each length of aluminum. I used 2 in this project.
Picture of support with bottom not attached gives you an idea that the tailgate will have to come up some for the bolt to line up. Once the bolt is out it is easy to align the holes. Yes, I made them so the tailgate will be level when in use. The factory straps will not be supporting any weight but still attached for safety.
These pictures show how I made the top attachment. They slide on then down prior to bolting the bottom in place. The bent over tang keeps the top part from moving toward the large end.
The bottom end has the top cut to clear the bed and duct tape on the inside to protect the paint when bolted in place by the one of the tailgate bolts that holds the tailgate latch in place. At star Allen head tool is required to remove the bolt and tighten it back down. The material was already narrowed at this end by the bolt but should still be plenty strong.
Sponsored
Last edited by a moderator:
