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My '23 Maverick arrived, lets lower it w/ Eibach Lowering Springs !

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daddio211

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I
Looks GREAT. Once you have driven it more be sure to let us know how the ride is?
I'm at 71 miles now And can give some early feedback on this. Driving roads familiar to me and having had a stock XL EcoBoost since October I think I'm pretty well qualified to answer.

Ride is damn near stock for almost every situation. It does feel more firm on larger bumps, but never harsh. I have yet to bottom out or rub on anything, but the rear inner sidewall to fender plastic is REALLY close to rubbing. I may trim it back a bit.

I did have one "bounce" that felt like what I'm used to in a lowered car or truck but again, not harsh.

I'm beyond happy with the results, only wish I could come down slightly more and retain this ride.
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daddio211

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Just an update, I've been cutting holes in my new truck this afternoon.

I would have definitely preferred hidden tweeters but I'm not willing to do that much surgery today. 😁

Ford Maverick My '23 Maverick arrived, lets lower it w/ Eibach Lowering Springs ! 20230102_175937
 
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Just for my own reference (and yours if you care) I installed the following speakers:

Front: Rockford Fosgate R165-S (door speakers and dash tweeters)

Rear: Rockford Fosgate R14X2 (pillar speakers)

They're definitely cleaner than the OEM speakers but limited by deck power. The tweeters are significantly underpowered. Going to build a box and add a 10" sub. Will likely need to add an amp and DSP for the component speakers in the near future.

I'll post this all as I move forward.
 
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Regarding sub selection, Rockford Fosgate replied to me this morning on which amp to choose.

Here's their reply: We would suggest the P3SD4-10 powered by the R2-250X1 amplifier. The PBR300X1 would work, but the R2-250X1 is a better amp for that application.

Going shopping now. 😁
 

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I still can’t decide what I want to do
I am currently annoying myself with my indecision
That's one thing I don't struggle with. I simply have an idea of what I want then resesrch it... and it all changes!

I had planned to do a powered Kicker 10" but I just KNOW it won't have enough bass for me. If I spec a sub, amp and build a box and there's not enough bass then I just get to be pissed at myself rather than blame a manufacturer, LOL.
 

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That's one thing I don't struggle with. I simply have an idea of what I want then resesrch it... and it all changes!

I had planned to do a powered Kicker 10" but I just KNOW it won't have enough bass for me. If I spec a sub, amp and build a box and there's not enough bass then I just get to be pissed at myself rather than blame a manufacturer, LOL.
Oh, I know what I want…. I just can’t realistically have it
Coming from my F150 with 2 JL Audio shallow mount 12” subs under the seat I’ve not found an option that will give me the lows I want
We can do two 10’s or 4 8’s no problem which will be plenty loud but will they play low enough?
That’s my issue
I’m really close to just cutting a hole in the back wall and having 12’s in the bed firing into the cab
 
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Oh, I know what I want…. I just can’t realistically have it
Coming from my F150 with 2 JL Audio shallow mount 12” subs under the seat I’ve not found an option that will give me the lows I want
We can do two 10’s or 4 8’s no problem which will be plenty loud but will they play low enough?
That’s my issue
I’m really close to just cutting a hole in the back wall and having 12’s in the bed firing into the cab
Yeah, cutting a hole or three in the back wall would definitely be a consideration if I didn't actually NEED my bed on a daily basis.
 
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Under, with plastics in place. 18" x 11" x 6.25". Amp will be mounted behind the seat.
I saw the OP's post in the older, larger powered sub thread and came here to discuss instead.

I am not sure that you'll get a box that shape in place with the plastic insert because the floorpan is ramped in the rear center and it's not a small ramp, like 1.5" tall or more. My box is 15" because 18" would not fit under there without cutting the corner brace or doing something radical like screwing the top of the box on after the bottom is in place.

11" is also pushing it with a square box. You can do 11" on the top, but the bottom with an unmodified plastic tub insert in place is more like 8.5 - 9" wide, again, front to rear of the truck. And... 11" is not wide enough for most/all 10" to avoid cutting into the edges of the box.

Currently I have my tub out and am using a 15x10.5x6.5 box. I am going to cut the plastic insert and use the top portion, basically make it a trim ring instead of insert. Haven't been in the garage while it's been cold and the holidays. My build is here: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/adding-8-sub-amp-to-b-o.21543/

If the OP (or anyone) wants a Rockford 10" I think the plastic tub has to come out or be modified to have enough air volume.
 
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I saw the OP's post in the older, larger powered sub thread and came here to discuss instead.

I am not sure that you'll get a box that shape in place with the plastic insert because the floorpan is ramped in the rear center and it's not a small ramp, like 1.5" tall or more. My box is 15" because 18" would not fit under there without cutting the corner brace or doing something radical like screwing the top of the box on after the bottom is in place.

11" is also pushing it with a square box. You can do 11" on the top, but the bottom with an unmodified plastic tub insert in place is more like 8.5 - 9" wide, again, front to rear of the truck. And... 11" is not wide enough for most/all 10" to avoid cutting into the edges of the box.

Currently I have my tub out and am using a 15x10.5x6.5 box. I am going to cut the plastic insert and use the top portion, basically make it a trim ring instead of insert. Haven't been in the garage while it's been cold and the holidays. My build is here: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/adding-8-sub-amp-to-b-o.21543/

If the OP (or anyone) wants a Rockford 10" I think the plastic tub has to come out or be modified to have enough air volume.
Thanks for the input, I always appreciate contrasting opinions. My measurements are indeed quick and rough, but I'll CAD (cardboard assisted design) a box before I cut any wood.

Cutting plastics out isn't an issue for me. Hell, cutting and welding steel isn't an issue, but I'd like to modify as little as possible.

The 10" Rockford Fosgate mounting hole measures 9.06" so if I can do 11" top surface I'll still be in good shape.
 

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Thanks for the input, I always appreciate contrasting opinions. My measurements are indeed quick and rough, but I'll CAD (cardboard assisted design) a box before I cut any wood.

Cutting plastics out isn't an issue for me. Hell, cutting and welding steel isn't an issue, but I'd like to modify as little as possible.

The 10" Rockford Fosgate mounting hole measures 9.06" so if I can do 11" top surface I'll still be in good shape.
There are so many people better at making sub boxes than me, but I did carefully measure and constructed cardboard mockups because the area is small and weirdly shaped. My box is snug and does not slide around, but can be installed and removed. When my mockups were much longer 15.5" that just wasn't working so I went down another half inch to allow for the box carpet.

I could have made a trapezoid (larger on top of course) and used a 10, but I really don't know how it would sound compared to my overpowered 8". Early on I wanted a ported 10" and gave up that dream quickly because it would involve using both tubs and I wanted to keep one open for actually storing stuff.

I do think that a 10 in a ported box using the whole area would be the highest performance of anything that fits under there without cutting metal. Say like a Savard HiQ 10". (y) Takes a hell of a lot of power to feed it, I bet it would underperform with my paltry 500w.
 
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There are so many people better at making sub boxes than me, but I did carefully measure and constructed cardboard mockups because the area is small and weirdly shaped. My box is snug and does not slide around, but can be installed and removed. When my mockups were much longer 15.5" that just wasn't working so I went down another half inch to allow for the box carpet.

I could have made a trapezoid (larger on top of course) and used a 10, but I really don't know how it would sound compared to my overpowered 8". Early on I wanted a ported 10" and gave up that dream quickly because it would involve using both tubs and I wanted to keep one open for actually storing stuff.

I do think that a 10 in a ported box using the whole area would be the highest performance of anything that fits under there without cutting metal. Say like a Savard HiQ 10". (y) Takes a hell of a lot of power to feed it, I bet it would underperform with my paltry 500w.
I just read your whole thread, great info!

I've built a number of boxes over the years and while I'm pretty good at it I'm definitely going to look at things again before I buy a sub. May even make a MDF box beforehand to be certain.

I agree, I would prefer a ported box too but the room required is out of the question. I've had about every configuration of subs you can imagine, but really prefer a pair of ported 10's over everything.

Thanks for the insight.
 

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Very cool thread so far :) looking forward to the updates! Love those old school minis you posted; I'm not huge into sound systems anymore, but was thinking of going with the Alpine PWE-S8. It's internally amplified and has a built in crossover; it can also just tap into the rear speakers so there's no need for a line converter or anything fancy.
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