For sure! Here’s the bolts, it’s easy to understand how the middle bump would adjust it left/right, but I don’t understand how it stays in place. Seems like the only thing that “locks” it in place is the teeth on the washer.
That large tab on the washer is located towards the strut to achieve negative camber or towards the wheel to achieve positive camber. I think the cam on the bolt gets aligned with the little tab or flange on the inside of the washer. Locking teeth on the washer go towards the strut. You make adjustments from there positioning the cam to a point that works with alignment needs. This is what the alignment tech will do, not you. The cam stays in place when the bolt and nut are properly torqued down and I'm sure that small inside flange plays a part too since it plays a role in locating the cam. It won't move, I've used them on multiple applications and never had an issue with the cam moving out of place. SPC is a good company and knows a thing or two about alignment/suspension products.For sure! Here’s the bolts, it’s easy to understand how the middle bump would adjust it left/right, but I don’t understand how it stays in place. Seems like the only thing that “locks” it in place is the teeth on the washer.
My truck: XLT/4k/eibach kit, 235/70/17 g015
did you get a alignment and did you need to buy camber bolts?? if so which ones did you go withMy DIY experience tackling the Eibach 2 inch Pro-Lift at home with some results pics.
What I referenced: (Since there aren’t ANY instructions currently)
1) Superlift’s 2.5” spacer install YT video because that was the easiest to follow.
2) Readylift’s online instructions for general torque specs.
https://www.readylift.com/media/installation-pdfs/69-22150-IM-AB.pdf
General Comments:
-Back Springs = easy as long as you have at least two jacks at home (or using the ford Jack with your home Jack)
-Front Springs = Not too tough, but you can only do about 75% of the work until you need a professional spring compressor.
Snags:
-You’ll need a very large Macpherson Strut Compressor OR a professional one. The usual type you can rent are not long enough for the Eibach springs AND they are only usable on one side of the strut. This is due to the bottom “plate” that holds the bottom of the spring sticking out too much and interfering with the bolt on the compressor tool. (If you put both compressor bolts on the same side it’s very sketchy AND it begins to “lean” the Eibach spring making it impossible to rest the top hat)
Overall:
Happy with the look and initial ride quality. Pics to follow, let me know if you have any questions, I’m glad to help!
*unlabeled pics are with my new 235/70/17 Yokohama G015
did you need camber bolts to re-align, if so which ones did you get?Nice here is a pic of the just under 2 inch H&R lift springs installed - Really happy with them although they did remove the "rake" - So nice to get all that low hanging plastic up off the ground.
No bolts needed -
wow, odd the eibach springs need but H&R are good.. you didnt have any positive issue, it aligned out normal?
there is rake.. i had a guy measure his front and back, there is 3/4 inch rake left
H/R removed rake - Didn't quite expect that. @ Time of install - Alignment was so close on spot but just a wee bit off - Foreman said not even something to worry about. Can upload Alignment spec sheet later -
