Minor rear ender or total loss? Answer inside. [Updated with underbody photos of damage]

[DavesMav]

They obviously don't want or need the work.

They don't want it because repair guides are not out and parts are unobtainable. No reputable shop will repair this without the guide and the ability to secure the right parts. Sure, some shade tree might fix 'er up good for ya, but given the circumstances any reputable shop will quote this to the extent of totaling the vehicle. Without the official repair guide, that probably rules out 99% of shops from taking on this repair. You know, the ones that would prefer to stay in business. Most shops aren't going to risk their business to repair something without proper direction from the OEM or guaranteeing they can timely source the right parts. Doing so would surely open them up to losing their license and ability to operate...

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[Tailender]

They obviously don't want or need the work.

No. They want that much to buy another to just replace it!

 

[LSchicago]

No. They want that much to buy another to just replace it!

Problem is you can't replace it for that.

 

[Chris_G]

That's the crumple zone. Nothing to do with the spare.

Okay, thanks. I thought the spare was part of the crumple zone to protect the gas tank.

 

[Edge Haley]

To all who responded to my post, thanks for your input. Just got pictures of the undercarriage. Check it out.

I would collect all the insurance I could and ask your Ford dealer first dibs on a replacement Maverick from a cancelled order... that damage would be a royal pain for any body shop to tackle,, let along getting it to drive down the road in a straight line. It could drive fine as it is, but taken apart, fixed and put back together to engineering specs would be a massive challenge for any body shop.

I would be shocked if any insurance company would pay more than MSRP, with the exception of classic, antique car insurers.

 

[1929]

Requires structural sectioning. Thanks for the pictures.
It's repairable, as others have stated it's worth more in parts.
I'd have no issues driving it after repair, just would not choose to own salvage title or reconstructed unless it was a great deal. No great deal unless you have the skills to repair it yourself.
If you follow the VIN in the future this truck will show up at auction.

 

[LSchicago]

I would collect all the insurance I could and ask your Ford dealer first dibs on a replacement for a cancelled order... that damage would be a royal pain for any amateur to tackel.

easy for a good shop though.

 

[bautek_mn]

My condolences.

If you wanted to YOLO you could probably pull that back out with some chain wrapped around the crash bar and the toughest looking bollard blocking the front door of the local Walmart. Weld in a cut-to-measure steel sleeve and use the other person's crumple zone if you get rear ended again.

Seriously though, make sure to get multiple quotes on a matching replacement Maverick and demand actual market replacement cost and not just book value from your insurance.

 

[Joe Kelly]

I would buy it back and get liability insurance only and drive it. If not as new as it is would piece it out by major assemblies. May have to hold on to them for 36 months but after the warranty period some body will need them and be happy to pay you a fair price.

 

[reciprocating_ravioli]

It looks like you'd have to drill out all the welds to the bed, then either drill out the rear rail or cut and scab a new on in. Wouldn't be super bad IF you had the parts. Personally I'd get it pulled and scab in a similar thickness steel panel where it's kinked and call it a day. But probably hard to find a shop to do that as it'd be a liability.

 

[TheSEARCH]

Thanks for asking. Hardly felt it. I have bumped into cars harder then that when backing into a parking space.

Amazing such a small impact totals the Mav.

 

[boe757]

take the cash and walk, might be ok, could be ok - will always be an issue during ownership

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