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Hybrid cable clamp.

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skinnyboy

skinnyboy

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The actual terminal is a flat plate with the wire flattened and soldered against it. You're using a rounded clamp applying pressure through the heatshrink jacket. So the pressure is uneven and potentially inconsistent. The result could be a failure state where you don't lose power but its arcing and further deteriorating the joint. High amperage + high resistance is a recipe for scorching/fire.
Agreed regarding the shape of the termination and clamp. The insulation will help to spread the force over the face of the termination to help mitigate the shape concern.

Not sure if this came across in my original post, but I intended this to be a stop gap (not a permanent solution or preventative measure), should the need arise only, to get the vehicle home safely without having to jump it continually and operate with a loose (unsafe/high resistance) termination. It would more than inconvenient to have it fail on vacation, have the vehicle towed to a Ford dealer only to be told we have no slots for x days, then have to source and secure a new 4/0 termination and a crimping tool in the middle of nowhere with a bored teen complaining all the while :cautious:

Cheers.
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Gullzway

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Honestly, if you're spending all of this money to buy clamps and stuff in anticipation of doing some hackjob emergency repair just get a cable terminal crimper and actually replace the end. Then it's never an issue in the first place.
This didn't cost me anything as I already had the clamp. Great idea though, I may do that. I think my work may have some large cable crimpers; I know I don't. Though again are you risking Voiding your Warranty doing this??

One post I found mentions the dealer repaired theirs by crimping on a BP36 Lug which can be bought at Orielly for $4.59. Standard Ignition Battery Jumper Cable BP326 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)

"
-------------- REPORT #3 [Dealer Warranty Service] ------------------

Thanks to: Facebook Post

FORD Dealer Technician Report:

-- Installed BP326 [Cable Lug]

Troubleshooting:

1) Performed Battery Test - PASS
2) Checked Fuses - PASS [All Good]
3) Inspected wires at the fuse box under the hood"
 

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You absolutely have to be sure battery cable is CU or AL, if its AL or AL alloy, you do not want to use a CU lug!!!

It has to be CU clad, which joins AL to CU.

Any dissimilar metals willl create havoc over time, galvanic corrosion. Add a little temperature swings and moisture and this will play havoc with your electronics.

I dont believe a dealership should NOT have the power to bandaid this important electronics junction. A ford repair with NON ford parts, is a problem in my book. Dont agree with this technique.
 
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Gullzway

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You absolutely have to be sure battery cable is CU or AL, if its AL or AL alloy, you do not want to use a CU lug!!!

It has to be CU clad, which joins AL to CU.

Any dissimilar metals willl create havoc over time, galvanic corrosion. Add a little temperature swings and moisture and this will play havoc with your electronics.

I dont believe a dealership should NOT have the power to bandaid this important electronics junction. A ford repair with NON ford parts, is a problem in my book. Dont agree with this technique.
So, what would you suggest? Carry a portable jumpstart for when the battery dies and wait for Ford to figure this out? Try and get into the dealer, who likely doesn't know about the issue? Last time I checked for a service appointment they were close to a month out in scheduling.

Surely someone knows what material the cable is by now.

Edit: I just called my dealer to discuss the issue. Thay said they hadn't heard anything, and I'd need to drop my truck off for at LEAST a week for them to diagnose the issue. That's not going to work for me.
 
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Mach 1

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I m saying do whats happening, Ford dealership, wiring harness replacement...

Now if you have the resources and knowledge, repair it yourself...BUT....wait for it...


Better then it was from the factory!!!



Yes i carry a jump box and VERY versed in metallurgy...
 

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Yes, the question is...

The battery cable to the fuse box, in the pics it looks like aluminum(although it could be solder covered CU).

If its copper cable then it might be an acceptable repair(although i solder mine not crimp)by using a CU lug.

If its aluminum? Then an aluminum to CU lug IS not an acceptable joint. You have to use CU clad to join AL to CU.

I was just thinking as well, if the dealerships see people doing some unacceptable repairs, will it get around and make it difficult to get a complete repair? Will they void some waranties or refuse to take the truck in for repair, or they could even charge someone to repair a 'repaired' truck?

These are just some of the problems that could arise, and i keep saying to be 1)be careful2)know what you are doing3)do good quality work.
 
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Yes, the question is...

The battery cable to the fuse box, in the pics it looks like aluminum(although it could be solder covered CU).

If its copper cable then it might be an acceptable repair(although i solder mine not crimp)by using a CU lug.

If its aluminum? Then an aluminum to CU lug IS not an acceptable joint. You have to use CU clad to join AL to CU.

I was just thinking as well, if the dealerships see people doing some unacceptable repairs, will it get around and make it difficult to get a complete repair? Will they void some waranties or refuse to take the truck in for repair, or they could even charge someone to repair a 'repaired' truck?

These are just some of the problems that could arise, and i keep saying to be 1)be careful2)know what you are doing3)do good quality work.
This is the conversation I fear would take place without a recall being in place:
Me: The positive 12v cable failed, truck wouldn't start.
Service Advisor: We'll do a diagnostic.
Service Manager: The cable has been modified, we can't warranty it.
Me: Had to modify it or walk for 3 weeks until you could slot me in today.
Service Advisor: $700 parts, 3 hrs. shop rate to replace it, plus 4 hrs. for the diagnostic since it's not warranty.
Me: Let me speak to the Ford rep.
Ford Rep.: "Never seen this before", and you modified the cable. Not warranty.

Totally agree Mach 1, if you are doing a repair ensure that it will be good, for at least as long as you plan on owning the truck.

Cheers.
 

Mach 1

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Skinny, good post, good to understand theres a tight road to walk when dealing with dealership.
 
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Darnon

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It seems an entirely contradictory paranoid fantasy, though. If you repair it properly then the terminal failing and needing to have it done under warranty is a non-issue. If you're afraid of being denied a warranty claim because of independent repair, then why plan on doing even more of a bodge and driving around with clamps or vice-grips, or zip-ties holding it together.
 
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skinnyboy

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It seems an entirely contradictory paranoid fantasy, though. If you repair it properly then the terminal failing and needing to have it done under warranty is a non-issue. If you're afraid of being denied a warranty claim because of independent repair, then why plan on doing even more of a bodge and driving around with clamps or vice-grips, or zip-ties holding it together.
I paid for a warranty when I bought the truck, as we all did, so want the cable replaced under warranty IF it's defective. I'm not suggesting mine is, but it could be.

I've had Ford deny a warranty claim on a 300 six with 10,000 km's that had so much piston slap it sounded like a diesel, so have some background. No reason to think much has changed with Ford in this regard.

A small, removable, $5 clamp in the glove box to secure a poor connection if it crops up doesn't seem too onerous to give some peace of mind on a road trip.

If it craps after warranty I'll fix it myself.

Cheers.
 

Darnon

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I've had Ford deny a warranty claim on a 300 six with 10,000 km's that had so much piston slap it sounded like a diesel, so have some background. No reason to think much has changed with Ford in this regard.
If we're going down to anecdotes I've also had a Ford dealership really half-ass a recall repair (Crown Vic steering column separation) not following the full procedure of what it should encompass until I finally had to get them to give the parts to complete it myself.
 

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Mach 1

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I m with ya, i would recomend having a back up plan, then when you go to dealership just remove it before you take your Mav there.

I got the impression that the dealership has to use Ford parts, especially something like this.

Another sennerio enters my mind, if its band-aided, and say 80000m and 3 yrs later. Something reoccurs. Then we either have to repair it ourselves or pay Ford to fix it.

Fix it right, fix it good for the life of the vehicle.
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