Definitely my concern. The wheel calculator says that ET brings the wheel in 29mm.I've got 8.5" wide wheels with a +43 ET. These Mavericks seem to have plenty of inner clearance, if that's where your concern is.
ET is relative to width. 7 inch wheel with 0 ET has 3.5 inches in (towards suspension) and 3.5 inches out (towards fender). 37 mm is approximately 1 7/16" taken away from outside and moved to the inside. So the stock wheel has 4 15/16 inside and 2 1/16 outside. The stock wheel on the truck has more than 2 inches from the inside edge of the wheel/tire combo to the strut. 8.5 inch wheel is 3/4 inches more inside and outside if it has 37 offset. 45 is 8mm more than stock or 5/16. This makes the 8.5 ET 45 7/16 wider toward the outside than stock and 1 1/16 toward the inside which still leaves about an inch of clearance to the strut. See the image below. This is unusual with most cars and trucks. Most have to move the extra width towards the fender because they have very little room between the tire/wheel and strut. The further out the edge of the tire is the greater the arc of the outside tread corner and potential contact with the liner.Curious, maybe I missed something. But if the stock wheel is 7in. wide with an ET of 37, how did you fit an 8.5 wide wheel with a higher ET? Truck looks great btw.
Just finished installing some Escape lowering springs. They lowered about 2 and 2.5. I'll get some daytime pics this weekend. BTW the Escape 14mm camber bolts are also a go.
Update w/ more info and Q&A:
Part description and #:
Escape springs '20 to '22, AWD. Part # 28633-1
The ride is only slightly more firm than stock. The wheels are 20x8.5 et45 with 255/50. They did not rub before and so far I don't think they are rubbing now. I did have to add a 1/2 spacer above the rear spring seat to get the stance the way I wanted it. The springs the way they came made it perfectly level. 32" ground to fender on all four. So now it's 32 on the front and 32 1/2 in the back.
I took my stock steel wheels off at 38 miles and sold 3 as spares to members here, so I don't know what stock ride is like. The small amount of extra firmness is relative to the springs only. It's not annoying, but in hyper check out mode I noticed it.
Not on the bottom of the spring, on the top. The bottom (plastic & rubber) perch has a pin to prevent rotation around the raised metal part of the spring perch. The top metal perch is a bit longer than an inch and only has a rubber isolator. I had an old nylon cutting board I cut using the rubber isolator as a pattern and snapped it over the bulge on the upper metal spring perch. The stock springs are wound in opposite directions. The H&R springs are wound in the same direction. The upper isolators are symmetrical. So the drivers side went right in and the top of the passenger side, but I had to modify the passenger rubber isolator. I used a small grinding bit in a drill to remove a hump and shape the isolator for a spring wound opposite. I could have just bought a driver side lower perch but the pin would have been in the wrong place.
frame
nylon spacer
rubber isolator
spring
rubber isolator
plastic perch
lower control arm
Escape springs '20 to '22, AWD 28633-1
Yes, I had it all together and drove it a couple of miles and decided to come up with a plan to make the rear just slightly higher. The track width of the front and rear of the maverick are different and the rear looks lower when it's exactly the same height.
I usually do my own alignment. The lowering didn't really affect anything, but I didn't measure it before I started adjusting. I set the front camber -1, rear camber -.8, rear toe 1/8" in, front toe 1/8" out and left the caster alone. I will drive it a while and see how I like it. Make any adjustments. Then take it to a shop and have it confirmed and equal it out if there are any differences side to side.
3m flat black vinyl
I just used photo editor to lighten the picture because "puts black wheels on and takes picture at night"
I'll get some daytime pictures.
Yes, 2.5" Flowmaster 44 with black tip through a 4" fender exit bezel. It's not loud at all but I can tell it's running now.
Just finished installing some Escape lowering springs. They lowered about 2 and 2.5. I'll get some daytime pics this weekend. BTW the Escape 14mm camber bolts are also a go.
Update w/ more info and Q&A:
Part description and #:
Escape springs '20 to '22, AWD. Part # 28633-1
The ride is only slightly more firm than stock. The wheels are 20x8.5 et45 with 255/50. They did not rub before and so far I don't think they are rubbing now. I did have to add a 1/2 spacer above the rear spring seat to get the stance the way I wanted it. The springs the way they came made it perfectly level. 32" ground to fender on all four. So now it's 32 on the front and 32 1/2 in the back.
I took my stock steel wheels off at 38 miles and sold 3 as spares to members here, so I don't know what stock ride is like. The small amount of extra firmness is relative to the springs only. It's not annoying, but in hyper check out mode I noticed it.
Not on the bottom of the spring, on the top. The bottom (plastic & rubber) perch has a pin to prevent rotation around the raised metal part of the spring perch. The top metal perch is a bit longer than an inch and only has a rubber isolator. I had an old nylon cutting board I cut using the rubber isolator as a pattern and snapped it over the bulge on the upper metal spring perch. The stock springs are wound in opposite directions. The H&R springs are wound in the same direction. The upper isolators are symmetrical. So the drivers side went right in and the top of the passenger side, but I had to modify the passenger rubber isolator. I used a small grinding bit in a drill to remove a hump and shape the isolator for a spring wound opposite. I could have just bought a driver side lower perch but the pin would have been in the wrong place.
frame
nylon spacer
rubber isolator
spring
rubber isolator
plastic perch
lower control arm
Escape springs '20 to '22, AWD 28633-1
Yes, I had it all together and drove it a couple of miles and decided to come up with a plan to make the rear just slightly higher. The track width of the front and rear of the maverick are different and the rear looks lower when it's exactly the same height.
I usually do my own alignment. The lowering didn't really affect anything, but I didn't measure it before I started adjusting. I set the front camber -1, rear camber -.8, rear toe 1/8" in, front toe 1/8" out and left the caster alone. I will drive it a while and see how I like it. Make any adjustments. Then take it to a shop and have it confirmed and equal it out if there are any differences side to side.
3m flat black vinyl
I just used photo editor to lighten the picture because "puts black wheels on and takes picture at night"
I'll get some daytime pictures.
Yes, 2.5" Flowmaster 44 with black tip through a 4" fender exit bezel. It's not loud at all but I can tell it's running now.