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First oil change on Hybrid

BeardedK

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Full synthetic should not be used in a new engine. It interferes with piston ring seating. While modern engines have VERY tight tolerances (I used to work on the engine line for Ford) there is still break in required. Ford's recommended oil is only a semi-synthetic, i.e. conventional oil with a little synthetic in it.
Ecoboost maybe, but not for the hybrid 2.5L. Ford fills it with 0W-20 full synthetic at the factory and that's also what the manual calls for.

Ford Maverick First oil change on Hybrid Screen Shot 2022-07-26 at 12.17.32 PM
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Falcon first

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Every German brand BMW, Audi, Porsche and Mercedes have all come new with synthetic for at least the last 15 years. I guess Porsche doesn’t know much about engines right?
 

Mr.Roboto.1975

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Ecoboost maybe, but not for the hybrid 2.5L. Ford fills it with 0W-20 full synthetic at the factory and that's also what the manual calls for.

Screen Shot 2022-07-26 at 12.17.32 PM.png
I'll say this.... there are only a few manufacturers of truly synthetic oil sold in the U.S. Mobil 1, Amsoil.... I would have to research to find what others.

In the early 90's, there was a lawsuit before the FTC, and the FTC rules that "synthetic" was a marketing term, not a technical term, for the purposes of advertising. This was when you saw the explosion of low cost synthetics.

SO, I would not have an issue using "Motorcraft synthetic" in a new engine. I would not use Mobil 1 in it until after 10k miles. For the record, every gas engine I have except the oil burners / leakers gets Mobil 1. I was also double ASE master certified for a number of years up to the end of last month, as I am now in business in a different field and had no need to spend the time and money to re test.

Also, don't assume that the fluid specifications for new cars are written by engineers. What is in the manual is whatever the EPA tests are run with, which is basically the lightest oil the engine will not throw a rod with.
 

Sliphorn

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I'll say this.... there are only a few manufacturers of truly synthetic oil sold in the U.S. Mobil 1, Amsoil.... I would have to research to find what others.

In the early 90's, there was a lawsuit before the FTC, and the FTC rules that "synthetic" was a marketing term, not a technical term, for the purposes of advertising. This was when you saw the explosion of low cost synthetics.

SO, I would not have an issue using "Motorcraft synthetic" in a new engine. I would not use Mobil 1 in it until after 10k miles. For the record, every gas engine I have except the oil burners / leakers gets Mobil 1. I was also double ASE master certified for a number of years up to the end of last month, as I am now in business in a different field and had no need to spend the time and money to re test.

Also, don't assume that the fluid specifications for new cars are written by engineers. What is in the manual is whatever the EPA tests are run with, which is basically the lightest oil the engine will not throw a rod with.
..
Here is a good place to learn about motor oils.

www.bobistheoilguy.com
..
 

MaverickTopGun

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Every German brand BMW, Audi, Porsche and Mercedes have all come new with synthetic for at least the last 15 years. I guess Porsche doesn’t know much about engines right?
It was 1996 when Porsche began using full-syn Mobil1 0w-40 (mostly PAO, Group IV base oil in it back then) as factory-fill oil. Today, they have delivered about 1.5 million engines with Mobil1 0w-40 alone.

Countless other examples of Group IV/V (PAO/POE) base oil being used as the break-in oil. My old 2001 BMW 5-series had Castrol syn from the factory when new.

All that matters is that you use the correct weight (0w-20 hybrids; 5w-30 or 0w-30 Ecoboost) and that it has been tested to the Ford WSS- performance standard (or better, like dexos1 or MB 229.71).
We don't need to be organic chemists & 2nd guess the interaction between what base oils are used & additive packages, only certification tests printed on the oil bottle label matter to consumers.

For those willing to delve into break-in and what oils might help, the only two things I've experienced in the engineering world have to do with Additive Packages used, not base-oil composition (blends of Group II oil with various GroupIII/IV/V syn, or pure syn, break-in not affected). It's regarded as an old wive's tale that base oil type affects break-in.

  • Additive packages containing a little more ZDDP have been known to set up a tougher tribofilm, used by some engine builders to allow the lapped (polished) asperities time to break away in smaller chunks over early miles.
  • Honda-Acura in recent years has issued TSB's recommending lots of moly FM in factory-fill oil, citing avoiding friction hot-spots near the piston ring areas when breaking in an engine. Like the idea to use more ZDDP, moly fills early asperities and allows for a more gradual break-in and less micro-pitting. ZDDP increases friction (lowers wear, noted) though, oddly, while moly FM reduces friction. Mazda & Toyota are also very big on high-moly formulas as factory fill too.
All that said, the real world usually demonstrates engines can break in OK using almost any oil recipe.
 

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Milous

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Full synthetic should not be used in a new engine. It interferes with piston ring seating. While modern engines have VERY tight tolerances (I used to work on the engine line for Ford) there is still break in required. Ford's recommended oil is only a semi-synthetic, i.e. conventional oil with a little synthetic in it.
Totally incorrect.
 

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Full synthetic should not be used in a new engine. It interferes with piston ring seating. While modern engines have VERY tight tolerances (I used to work on the engine line for Ford) there is still break in required. Ford's recommended oil is only a semi-synthetic, i.e. conventional oil with a little synthetic in it.
I can't find this in the owners manual????
 

pawalsh610

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I did my first oil change this weekend at 4K miles (65% oil life left). Other than the cover this was the easiest car I have ever done an oil change on. Even the cover was not hard just somthing that took a bit of time, the bolts were literly fingure tight. I did mark all the holes that had a bolt so it was easier to put them all back in.
The old oil was brown but not bad, the new oil is so thin it is hard to see it on the dip stick. I will problebly do the next change at 10K.
 

MaverickTopGun

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Do they even make a non-synthetic 0W-20?
I never see them on the shelves, but walmart.com amazon.com ebay has them:
Castrol GTX Ultraclean
Pennzoil Gold
Kendall GT-1 High Performance
Phillips 66 Shield Choice Synthetic Blend
Motorcraft
The interesting 0w20 that I would call a "synthetic blend" is the one with 25% oil derived from sugarcane leaves & molasses, Castrol Biosynthetic, sa-weet!
I'd run any of these about 8,000 miles in a hybrid, and 6,000 miles in an Ecoboost (soot & fuel dilution bugs ecoboost too much to run longer)

of course only certifications really matter, not syn-blend or whatever
 
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bdaniel230

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I'm planning a 3,800-mile round trip to Kentucky/Kansas to visit relatives and spend some money. The Maverick has 1539 miles as of today and the oil monitor said I had 75% oil integrity left, so I decided to change the oil with something I have been using for decades and has never left me down. I have included some pictures for the non-street mechanic nubies.

The real purpose of my post is to ask anybody familiar with this white plastic piece in the second photo. It was laying on the fiber splash guard when I dropped it to change oil. My thoughts are it's a piece of production trash, but I want to make sure.

One note - Every one of the Torx 30 screws holding the splash guard were only hand tight and I could remove all with the socket and my fingers.

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Here is the issue with using synthetic oil before the rings are seated, usually around 10k miles. The rings are supposed to wear the cross-hatch pattern so that the rings are seated to the cylinder. This increases compression and lengthens cylinder and piston life. After the rings seat, they are not as prone to rotating and loss of compression resulting. If the rings wear and don't seat, there is a chance of the piston skirt hitting the cylinder because the rings will, not may but will, rotate until the gap in the rings align. At that point, especially in a boost situation, oil will not be retained on the cylinder wall, compression and boost pressure will be evacuated into the crankcase which can and generally does cause premature failure of the turbo charger. I know there are many videos of this issue so... I waited until I knew the rings had seated before I went to synthetic oil. I had 10,100 on the odometer when I switched and I notice the difference in the way the engine idles and runs. Synthetic oil is slippery enough the rings would never properly seat.
When I changed to synthetic it was my third oil change. First one was at 3k second at 6.5k so I am a believer in changing oil between 3 and 5k miles, even synthetic needs changing at 5k miles just to keep the dirt out of the engine, filters get most of the fines but there is a lot of carbon that moves through the oil galleries, which is why engine oil turns black, and that carbon causes most of the problems with engines. Just ask yourself how much do you want to keep the engine running properly. Is it worth the extra $200 annually?
 
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purduealum91

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Here is the issue with using synthetic oil before the rings are seated, usually around 10k miles. The rings are supposed to wear the cross-hatch pattern so that the rings are seated to the cylinder. This increases compression and lengthens cylinder and piston life. After the rings seat, they are not as prone to rotating and loss of compression resulting. If the rings wear and don't seat, there is a chance of the piston skirt hitting the cylinder because the rings will, not may but will, rotate until the gap in the rings align. At that point, especially in a boost situation, oil will not be retained on the cylinder wall, compression and boost pressure will be evacuated into the crankcase which can and generally does cause premature failure of the turbo charger. I know there are many videos of this issue so... I waited until I knew the rings had seated before I went to synthetic oil. I had 10,100 on the odometer when I switched and I notice the difference in the way the engine idles and runs. Synthetic oil is slippery enough the rings would never properly seat.
When I changed to synthetic it was my third oil change. First one was at 3k second at 6.5k so I am a believer in changing oil between 3 and 5k miles, even synthetic needs changing at 5k miles just to keep the dirt out of the engine, filters get most of the fines but there is a lot of carbon that moves through the oil galleries, which is why engine oil turns black, and that carbon causes most of the problems with engines. Just ask yourself how much do you want to keep the engine running properly. Is it worth the extra $200 annually?
Hello. What oil did you use prior to the synthetic?
 

badger_biker

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I'm passing time browsing for Maverick hybrid information between my recent order and when I finally get the truck and was just wondering if the miles you guys are counting between oil changes are straight vehicle miles or ICE mile estimates? A hybrid will be a whole new animal to me.
 

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I just go by the oil life monitor. About every 7500...if my schedule has a break and im around 30% I will just get it changed.
 

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wtf is wrong with people in this thread? Terrible advice. There is nothing wrong with using synthetic form the factory. Stop it.
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