DIY HOW TO: Install adaptive cruise control in Maverick Hybrid XLT with Luxury package

[fireeagle]

https://www.oemfordpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/ford-screw-self-tapping-w506976s450b

https://www.fairwayfordparts.net/oem-parts/ford-screw-self-tapping-w506976s450b

Yea, they both have no stock either. All the part sites seem to say available but have a disclaimer that they may not actually be around at the supplier, then when they look at Ford, they see the same backordered notice.

One place did helpfully point out that it's listed as a M16x25 torx self tapping screw, so a non-Ford part may work. The Ford parts site also has it listed as an M16x25 (https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/h...steners-71564-2/self-tapping-screw-13284257-1), which seems strangely large for something being mounted in plastic and has been rather hard to find. I don't trust the picture, but the picture on Ford's site also doesn't look like the size of an M16.

I looked at the original pictures baaron posted, and the holes for the screws don't look big enough for an M16. Using the catch for the hood as a point of reference to scale the image, it looks more like a 5-6mm hole, which would be closer to an M6. The recent years of Bronco and Escape also use a (slightly shorter) M6 (https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/hardware-and-fasteners-71564-2/screw-14759729-1).

I'm wondering if there's just a typo in the Ford catalog. If so, https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-relay-assembly-screw-w506976s437 may be a workable fit for the exact length, or the 20mm one the Bronco uses could work too.

Do you remember roughly the size of the screws when you did yours? Were they long and skinny, or pretty massive?

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[Telemachus]

I mean, if they are self-tapping, does the size really matter? You just need to hold the bracket on.

Just go to Ace hardware and find a screw that works. You could probably get stainless steel for cheaper than getting it through Ford.

 

[bwil415]

I mean, if they are self-tapping, does the size really matter? You just need to hold the bracket on.

Just go to Ace hardware and find a screw that works.

The size would need to be pretty close to original. They are self tapping, not self drilling. If someone could put a pair of calipers on the screw diameter, you should be able to find an off the shelf alternative. You could probably get stainless steel too which would actually be superior.

 

[Telemachus]

The size would need to be pretty close to original. They are self tapping, not self drilling. If someone could put a pair of calipers on the screw diameter, you should be able to find an off the shelf alternative. You could probably get stainless steel too which would actually be superior.

https://www.mcmaster.com/96001A409/

agree with the stainless.

I'm quite confident anybody attempting this mod at least has a power drill and some drill bits...

 

[bwil415]

agree with the stainless.

I'm quite confident anybody attempting this mod at least has a power drill and some drill bits...

I would hope so... Regardless, if they are actually M6 x 20mm then any self-tapping or sheet metal screw of that size should work. Imperial #14 x 3/4 would be something like 6.1mm x 19mm which I presume would work and is likely available at local hardware stores. If you want a perfect match with the T30 drive, I'm not seeing many options.

 

[Telemachus]

I would hope so... Regardless, if they are actually M6 x 20mm then any self-tapping or sheet metal screw of that size should work. Imperial #14 x 3/4 would be something like 6.1mm x 19mm which I presume would work and is likely available at local hardware stores. If you want a perfect match with the T30 drive, I'm not seeing many options.

Or a smaller machine screw with a nylon lock nut on the rear end. Lots of options.

I'm still trying to figure out why nobody has populated the fuse in the hood fuse box. It shouldn't be too difficult to find the correct leads to add.

 

[shakenbake444]

Can you put the sensor in the different spot? Like on the lower grille? It's a total eye sore in the middle grille. Super ugly!

 

[Telemachus]

Can you put the sensor in the different spot? Like on the lower grille? It's a total eye sore in the middle grille. Super ugly!

You could probably make a custom cover for it. It does fit better with the lariat grill than the other trims, since the design has continuity.

But I don't think anybody will try putting it in a different place.

You could try it and let us know how it goes LOL.

 

[rgwalkeriv]

First off thank you OP and everyone who has contributed to this thread. It's very impressive all of the knowledge that people have shared.

I have completed the installation but haven't had any success conducting a calibration. Whenever I attempt to calibrate the CCM it remains at 0% regardless of how long I drive. After attempting a CCM calibration I get the following CCM DTC "Code U3002-Vehicle Identification Number". Upon further investigation, I found the following when I was looking at the configuration tab on Forscan (Image attached).

It appears there is a discrepancy between the CCM VIN and my actual VIN that shows up under the ABS module. It added the letter M before my VIN and removed the last digit which should be a 2.

I've attached a picture of what is entered in my asbuilt CCM which I derived following the exact directions given by OP. My actual VIN is 3FTTW8F91NRB06772

Has anyone else had this issue or can anyone see a clear mistake that I am making? Thank you in advance for your help.

 

[nickn066]

I th

First off thank you OP and everyone who has contributed to this thread. It's very impressive all of the knowledge that people have shared.

I have completed the installation but haven't had any success conducting a calibration. Whenever I attempt to calibrate the CCM it remains at 0% regardless of how long I drive. After attempting a CCM calibration I get the following CCM DTC "Code U3002-Vehicle Identification Number". Upon further investigation, I found the following when I was looking at the configuration tab on Forscan (Image attached).

It appears there is a discrepancy between the CCM VIN and my actual VIN that shows up under the ABS module. It added the letter M before my VIN and removed the last digit which should be a 2.

I've attached a picture of what is entered in my asbuilt CCM which I derived following the exact directions given by OP. My actual VIN is 3FTTW8F91NRB06772

Has anyone else had this issue or can anyone see a clear mistake that I am making? Thank you in advance for your help.

I just realized with your module screen shot that we've been using lower case for the VIN and need to be upper case, PM sent

 

[rgwalkeriv]

I th

I just realized with your module screen shot that we've been using lower case for the VIN and need to be upper case, PM sent

Nick was correct and that was the issue. What an absolute legend for helping me out over the past few weeks!

 

[Telemachus]

Nick was correct and that was the issue. What an absolute legend for helping me out over the past few weeks!

Let's see some pics!

 

[bwil415]

I was wondering if anyone who has done this mod has thought about installing the sensor without the cover behind the unmodified XLT or XL grill. It looks like there is not enough room unless it could be mounted 1/2in or so further back somehow? And of course the grill could interfere with the sensor operation, but it works through the cover, so who knows.

Just a thought that could maybe prevent chopping the stock grill.

 

[Gilbillygucci]

I was wondering if anyone who has done this mod has thought about installing the sensor without the cover behind the unmodified XLT or XL grill. It looks like there is not enough room unless it could be mounted 1/2in or so further back somehow? And of course the grill could interfere with the sensor operation, but it works through the cover, so who knows.

Just a thought that could maybe prevent chopping the stock grill.

There is not enough space behind the grill. I was going to try this method when I first installed it. Also it would probably eat up the sensor real good without a cover on it if we could. After 20k some odd miles, mine has plenty of chips on the cover.

 

[rgwalkeriv]

Let's see some pics!

Here you go!
This image shows the one mistake I made during the hardware install. I accidentally wired these connections to the wrong spot (Even after reading of others on this thread who did the same thing). As you can see in the picture the connector is even labeled 4/12 at the bottom. This is the correct wiring.

This image shows what is behind the panel that you have to remove just above the rear view mirror. Here you can see the connector is incorrectly wired. I had connected it to slots 2/6 not 3/11.

This image shows the IPMA connector opened with the terminals inserted (If you're following along this is once again correctly wired)

This image just shows the a pillar removed and where you need to run the two wires from the IPMA module.

This is a still image I took from a video that I took going around a curve. I didn't need to provide any inputs throughout the turn.

Here is a close up of the dash showing the LKA, Lane centering, and cruise control illuminated green.

Once again thank you to everyone on the forum for posting such great information, and special shoutout to Nickn066 for the help during this process.

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