Sponsored

Confusion: 12v Battery Connections Under the Hybrid Hood

Dad

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Jan 9, 2022
Threads
37
Messages
3,182
Reaction score
3,033
Location
SoCal
Vehicle(s)
2022 Maverick, - Lariat, Hyundai Palisade
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
I'm thinking of purchasing the NOCO Direct Mount On Board Battery Maintainer for my hybrid and so popped the hood to see if it would be a good fit. For those who might not be familiar with the hybrids, while the 12v battery itself is located under the rear seat, there are terminals located under the hood (see photo). The confusion I mentioned comes into play when looking at the terminal covers. They are appropriately colored red and black, however, both covers have a PLUS + mark embedded. The question is which is truly positive and which one is truly negative? I suppose I could run a meter probe to one of the terminals and ground the other one. Why did I just think of that now? Wife wants something, so I will do that later. In the meantime, feel free to lob in your thoughts.



Ford Maverick Confusion: 12v Battery Connections Under the Hybrid Hood IMG_2684
Sponsored

 

MakinDoForNow

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
First Name
James
Joined
Sep 24, 2021
Threads
1
Messages
4,827
Reaction score
3,120
Location
Texas
Vehicle(s)
2022 Maverick
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
I'm thinking of purchasing the NOCO Direct Mount On Board Battery Maintainer for my hybrid and so popped the hood to see if it would be a good fit. For those who might not be familiar with the hybrids, while the 12v battery itself is located under the rear seat, there are terminals located under the hood (see photo). The confusion I mentioned comes into play when looking at the terminal covers. They are appropriately colored red and black, however, both covers have a PLUS + mark embedded. The question is which is truly positive and which one is truly negative? I suppose I could run a meter probe to one of the terminals and ground the other one. Why did I just think of that now? Wife wants something, so I will do that later. In the meantime, feel free to lob in your thoughts.



IMG_2684.png
The red one is the positive that is used to jump with. The black one is a positive but it is also marked with a jump clamp WITHIN A CIRCLE WITH A SLASH THROUGH IT TO INDICATE = DO NOT CONNECT HERE!!!
Note the red one has the jump clamp on it without the slashed circle. The ground you use is a pin over on the body support about 11-15" to right and behind the red cover.
 

Darnon

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2021
Threads
10
Messages
4,709
Reaction score
5,577
Location
WNY
Vehicle(s)
2022 Maverick
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
The one of the left is positive as well (in fact they all connect to the same bus bar*), but it's where the positive cable from the DC-DC converter connects.

*from Ford Boss Me's battery cable repair video:
Ford Maverick Confusion: 12v Battery Connections Under the Hybrid Hood 1672768569450


The positive jump connection is its own separate tab assembly. Maybe that way if any connection arcing happens it's effectively a sacrificial piece easy enough to replace.
 

MakinDoForNow

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
First Name
James
Joined
Sep 24, 2021
Threads
1
Messages
4,827
Reaction score
3,120
Location
Texas
Vehicle(s)
2022 Maverick
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
The one of the left is positive as well (in fact they all connect to the same bus bar*), but it's where the positive cable from the DC-DC converter connects.

*from Ford Boss Me's battery cable repair video:
1672768569450.png


The positive jump connection is its own separate tab assembly. Maybe that way if any connection arcing happens it's effectively a sacrificial piece easy enough to replace.
Good to see that picture but I still have "how do it work" questions. Separate question. If a maintainer is attached and subject to any draw 24/7 for sensors, computer, etc and maintainer being so far from actual battery could a small voltage drop result in maintainer to overcharge (slightly) battery?
 

Sponsored

CZaugg

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
First Name
Curtis
Joined
Oct 12, 2021
Threads
29
Messages
440
Reaction score
479
Location
Rio Rancho, NM
Vehicle(s)
2023 Maverick Lariat Hybrid, 2021 Toyota Venza
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
Original question about where to mount an onboard battery tender I'm also interested in an answer to that. Do you connect directly to the battery under the rear seat and run your extension cord out the rear window to an electrical outlet or do you find a space in the engine compartment and connect to the red (+) post as listed above and to the neg (-) body bolt as indicated for jumper cables?
 

colinl

2.0L EcoBoost
Well-known member
First Name
Colin
Joined
Jun 21, 2022
Threads
17
Messages
2,185
Reaction score
2,005
Location
ICT
Vehicle(s)
'22 Maverick Lariat AWD, '22 Bronco OBX 2-Door
Engine
2.0L EcoBoost
Clubs
 
Good to see that picture but I still have "how do it work" questions. Separate question. If a maintainer is attached and subject to any draw 24/7 for sensors, computer, etc and maintainer being so far from actual battery could a small voltage drop result in maintainer to overcharge (slightly) battery?
No. Any quality battery tender will have various modes and while I can't quote the charging cutoff voltage without searching for it, I still have confidence it is low enough to not harm the 12V battery.

Speaking of that, in the Maverick and many other current-model Fords, it's not uncommon for the 12V battery to see 15.0 - 15.2 V charging while high-draw devices are in use, like the air conditioner and headlights. To me this is very high, around 14.4V being the old 'max' voltage for years and years. (High current car stereo amps were often rated output at 12.0V and 14.4V, it was that common.)

Final comment mainly for the OP, whether it's a battery tender or jumper cables, on the vehicle being charged you never ever connect negative. Just positive to the battery terminal, and negative to chassis. A lot of people do it wrong, and defend the practice by stating they've never had issues. Go ahead and do it right, it's not hard to connect to the frame. (y)
 
Last edited:

MakinDoForNow

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
First Name
James
Joined
Sep 24, 2021
Threads
1
Messages
4,827
Reaction score
3,120
Location
Texas
Vehicle(s)
2022 Maverick
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
No. Any quality battery tender will have various modes and while I can't quote the charging cutoff voltage without searching for it, I still have confidence it is low enough to not harm the 12V battery.

Speaking of that, in the Maverick and many other current-model Fords, it's not uncommon for the 12V battery to see 15.0 - 15.2 V charging while high-draw devices are in use, like the air conditioner and headlights. To me this is very high, around 14.4V being the old 'max' voltage for years and years. (High current car stereo amps were often rated output at 12.0V and 14.4V, it was that common.)

Final comment mainly for the OP, whether it's a battery tender or jumper cables, on the vehicle being charged you never ever connect negative. Just positive and negative to chassis. A lot of people do it wrong, and defend the practice by stating they've never had issues. Go ahead and do it right, it's not hard to connect to the frame. (y)
I'll go with cutoff happening early enough. Also that ford's bms will start reducing voltage of bus to whatever it's programed to do even during float mode maybe. Another question. If we are periodically going to let our hybrid mav sit over two weeks or longer could we not hook our maintainer either full time or on a timer to a jump start on supply mode or other battery to extend the time the 12v in mav would stay over 12.? Volts?
 
OP
OP
Dad

Dad

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Jan 9, 2022
Threads
37
Messages
3,182
Reaction score
3,033
Location
SoCal
Vehicle(s)
2022 Maverick, - Lariat, Hyundai Palisade
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
The red one is the positive that is used to jump with. The black one is a positive but it is also marked with a jump clamp WITHIN A CIRCLE WITH A SLASH THROUGH IT TO INDICATE = DO NOT CONNECT HERE!!!
Note the red one has the jump clamp on it without the slashed circle. The ground you use is a pin over on the body support about 11-15" to right and behind the red cover.
Ya, I saw that slash through the clamp mark. And you are correct about clamping the negative to a ground anywhere other than the battery terminal. Odd, though, that they labeled a + mark on each cover. Thanks for the response.
 
OP
OP
Dad

Dad

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Jan 9, 2022
Threads
37
Messages
3,182
Reaction score
3,033
Location
SoCal
Vehicle(s)
2022 Maverick, - Lariat, Hyundai Palisade
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
The one of the left is positive as well (in fact they all connect to the same bus bar*), but it's where the positive cable from the DC-DC converter connects.

*from Ford Boss Me's battery cable repair video:
1672768569450.png


The positive jump connection is its own separate tab assembly. Maybe that way if any connection arcing happens it's effectively a sacrificial piece easy enough to replace.
OOHHH. That's why both are labled positive (plus). So, to jump start, connect the red clamp to the red covered bar and do not connect the black to the black covered terminal. Instead, connect the black (negative) clamp to a grounded point in the engine compartment. Do I have that correctly?
 
Sponsored
OP
OP
Dad

Dad

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Jan 9, 2022
Threads
37
Messages
3,182
Reaction score
3,033
Location
SoCal
Vehicle(s)
2022 Maverick, - Lariat, Hyundai Palisade
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
No. Any quality battery tender will have various modes and while I can't quote the charging cutoff voltage without searching for it, I still have confidence it is low enough to not harm the 12V battery.

Speaking of that, in the Maverick and many other current-model Fords, it's not uncommon for the 12V battery to see 15.0 - 15.2 V charging while high-draw devices are in use, like the air conditioner and headlights. To me this is very high, around 14.4V being the old 'max' voltage for years and years. (High current car stereo amps were often rated output at 12.0V and 14.4V, it was that common.)

Final comment mainly for the OP, whether it's a battery tender or jumper cables, on the vehicle being charged you never ever connect negative. Just positive to the battery terminal, and negative to chassis. A lot of people do it wrong, and defend the practice by stating they've never had issues. Go ahead and do it right, it's not hard to connect to the frame. (y)
You are correct about not connecting negative to the battery. Yes, it does work, but not good practice. Much better to ground to the vehicle itself. This goes for any accessories such as lights as well. Thanks for reminding some and educating the rest.
 

Hot Runr Guy

2.0L EcoBoost
Well-known member
First Name
Terry
Joined
Apr 27, 2021
Threads
50
Messages
1,566
Reaction score
2,129
Location
West Chicago, IL
Vehicle(s)
2024 Edge SEL, 2024 Lariat AWD BAP 4K
Engine
2.0L EcoBoost
OP
OP
Dad

Dad

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Jan 9, 2022
Threads
37
Messages
3,182
Reaction score
3,033
Location
SoCal
Vehicle(s)
2022 Maverick, - Lariat, Hyundai Palisade
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
The one of the left is positive as well (in fact they all connect to the same bus bar*), but it's where the positive cable from the DC-DC converter connects.

*from Ford Boss Me's battery cable repair video:
1672768569450.png


The positive jump connection is its own separate tab assembly. Maybe that way if any connection arcing happens it's effectively a sacrificial piece easy enough to replace.
Forgot to thank you for your excellent response to my dilemma. Greatly appreciated.
 
OP
OP
Dad

Dad

2.5L Hybrid
Well-known member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Jan 9, 2022
Threads
37
Messages
3,182
Reaction score
3,033
Location
SoCal
Vehicle(s)
2022 Maverick, - Lariat, Hyundai Palisade
Engine
2.5L Hybrid
 




Top