Changing out Door Speakers and adding Powered Subwoofer to XL (no B&O). ASKING THESE QUESTIONS THREE!

[rchasexji]

I would like some clarification from the audio gurus out there! I know their are many threads on the subject but I've spent hours looking and can't seem to find answers to three questions.

I plan on installing these door speakers in place of the factory ones (I may or may not use the tweeters):

And probably this powered subwoofer:

And, if needed, this Line Output Converter (or something similar....suggestions appreciated):

Since I am changing out the door speakers anyway I thought I would tap into them for a powered subwoofer.

Question 1: I keep reading about tapping into the speaker wires that go to the door speakers. But can't I simply tap in at the (replacement) speaker terminal itself? In other words the factory speaker wires would attach to the (replacement) speaker and then my new speaker wires (for the powered subwoofer) would attach at the same place. Or do I have to tap into the factory speaker wires BEFORE they reach the door speakers?

Question 2: To achieve sound from both channels (as opposed to left side or right side only) at the powered subwoofer, should I tap in to both the driver and passenger door speakers? And then marry up the wires where they connect to the powered subwoofer? I know a subwoofer is mono but if a song has a lot of bass from one channel only (say the left) and I tap into the right side door speakers only, would it still sound balanced?

Question 3: In the interest of improved audio should I use a Line Output Converter (L.O.C.) so that I can use rca cables to connect to the powered subwoofer?

Oopsie....I have 6 question marks above! :-(

Thank you all for holding my hand on this one. I do hope some of the questions are intelligent and that the answers will be useful to others. Please ask for clarification if needed.

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[zen_]

Following, I have those same speakers, a refurbished Kicker HS8, and some generic sound deadening mat that I am going to "install when it's warm"...and it's almost warm again.

 

[Scenicgene]

I didn’t do a sub woofer but I used the Power Bass speakers and very happy with them.

 

[rchasexji]

I've been doing some additional research and trying to use common sense. (It's a heavy lift to do so!) I would think whether you tap into the front speakers at the speaker terminals or before the speaker itself should not matter. They both should achieve the same result. I've seen a couple of videos that hint at this as well. And looking at the powered subwoofer and LOC connections it takes four wires so that would mean left and right channel wires. So I will tap into both the driver and passenger side speakers. And I think I will go with the LOC as it doesn't cost very much to use. So there, I've answered my own questions! I don't plan on doing this right away .... waiting for it to get a little warmer but I will keep this updated as I proceed.
And of course if someone that knows more than me wants to chime in that would be more than appreciated.

 

[JP4AZ]

I onlly replaced the door speakers with these! This improvement alone is more than enough for my listening needs. I also did some generic sound deadning inside the door panel. Best of luck with your project!

 

[Toddman45]

It's up to you what brand speakers you go with, but anything is an improvement over any of the stock speakers included whether you have an XL, XLT, or a lariat.

I would recommend replacing all the speakers front doors dash tweeters and the rear pillar speakers. If it's in your budget definitely add a subwoofer whether you do a shallow mount in one of the storage areas under the rear seat or a smaller kicker hideaway style sub. I replaced all the speakers in my XLT powering them from the stock amp and they sound three times better I also added a 10-in shallow mount kicker comp-rt sub under the rear passenger seat. I also put sound dampening in all the doors as well as the under seat storage compartment.

You can tap the front speaker wires near the front footwells or behind the HVAC controls. If you use Forscan, change the EQ to Flat in the ACM. It gets rid of the bass roll off.

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