Caution when upgrading B&O Center Dash Speaker

[haze10]

Don't know if anyone else has experienced this. After reading all the forums here about upgrading the center dash speaker I purchased the Infinity Reference 3-1/2" 2-way REF-3032CFX. Since it is 4 ohms, I also bought the 4 ohm 50 watt resistor to add in series. The speaker came with a filtering capacitor to add in series. So I removed the OEM speaker, desoldered the connector, and ascertained the white lead was positive. I series the white positive lead to the resistor, series the output of the resistor to the capacitor, and then soldered the output of the resistor to the positive input of the speaker. The black lead was soldered to the negative of the speaker. With a jumper across the capacitor, my Fluke 87 measured 7.8 ohms. Here's the problem.

When I plugged in the speaker and turned on the radio, the channel went dead. No sound out of the speaker. Tried the reboot, tried factory default, tried disconnect battery. Nothing worked.

Took it to the dealer. They found an ACM B1AO4:11 AND 12 Fault code on speaker 4. Tech cleared the codes and the speaker started working. He told me if the module detects an open or a short it disables the channel to protect it.

I know I didn't fault anything to ground as all I did was join the connectors. But, one though is that a capacitor in series could show up as an open circuit on some internal scan. I am not afraid to try it again without the capacitor as don't want to go back to the dealer.

So, I can't recommend what you should, only that if I had to do again I would install the series resistor, but not the series capacitor. Of all the posts on the B&O dash speaker forum, no one mentioned whether they used the capacitor, or Not to use it. The ACM supplies the signals to the center dash and the rear pillar speakers. So if you are upgrading them use caution.

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[colinl]

the capacitor is a high pass filter. you don't need it with the system as the sync3 unit is already filtering the output frequency. the lack of such a filter on the stock speaker is evidence of this.​

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I'm glad you got it resolved at the dealership. if this happens to anyone else they can try disconnecting the battery, going to an autoparts store to read and clear the code, or using Forscan.​

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it was a short as speculated in your other threads. you don't need the capacitor but it also doesn't cause a short or any other issues in and of itself. you likely shorted it to ground when testing or reinstalling it. the reason I was talking about wire color in one of your other threads was to help you get the polarity (phase) correct.​

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that's a smart move using the 4ohm resistor as your speaker is actually 3ohm nominal. it probably will be louder than the stock 8ohm without the resistor and there's a thread talking about this speaker and most people are using it without a resistor.​

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[haze10]

Not sure if an autopart store will have a scanner that can read the ACM module. Forscan would work if they are up to the model date. I'm also looking at OBD Software as they say they can read the ACM. Disconnecting the battery will NOT reset the ACM, tried that. Also, Sync reboot, or Sync reset to factory defaults also won't work.
Yes using the capacitor was a mistake, but I didn't think it would hurt as the filtering was determined by Infinity, and probably wouldn't have hurt on a standard radio without this auto fault detection.

 

[colinl]

I couldn't find a spec on the capacitor, but I agree it probably wouldn't have any effect good or bad.

I saw that Infinity rates the speaker at 85hz-21khz, and 85hz is way too low for a 3.5" speaker to play at anything other than low output. I bet the sync3 unit's high pass for the center is way higher, like 250-500hz, depending on the crossover slope.

It's good that it has a protection mechanism because lacking that it's either going to blow a fuse or blow the amplifier (chip), if you apply enough voltage (volume) while it's shorted.

Forscan can reset the ACM. If it has its own retained power, that battery life surely has a limit, so if you disconnect the battery and wait long enough, eventually it would clear.

 

[Nw_adventure]

the capacitor is a high pass filter. you don't need it with the system as the sync3 unit is already filtering the output frequency. the lack of such a filter on the stock speaker is evidence of this.​

​

I'm glad you got it resolved at the dealership. if this happens to anyone else they can try disconnecting the battery, going to an autoparts store to read and clear the code, or using Forscan.​

​

it was a short as speculated in your other threads. you don't need the capacitor but it also doesn't cause a short or any other issues in and of itself. you likely shorted it to ground when testing or reinstalling it. the reason I was talking about wire color in one of your other threads was to help you get the polarity (phase) correct.​

​

that's a smart move using the 4ohm resistor as your speaker is actually 3ohm nominal. it probably will be louder than the stock 8ohm without the resistor and there's a thread talking about this speaker and most people are using it without a resistor.​

​

Installed the same Infinity speaker and yes it's a bit louder and more bright than the stock unit. I purchased a 4/OHM resistor but haven't took everything back out to wire it up and such. Silly idea but couldnt you just use some gauze or light fabric on the speaker grill to tame the volume output a bit ?

 

[YazYaz]

Don't know if anyone else has experienced this. After reading all the forums here about upgrading the center dash speaker I purchased the Infinity Reference 3-1/2" 2-way REF-3032CFX. Since it is 4 ohms, I also bought the 4 ohm 50 watt resistor to add in series. The speaker came with a filtering capacitor to add in series. So I removed the OEM speaker, desoldered the connector, and ascertained the white lead was positive. I series the white positive lead to the resistor, series the output of the resistor to the capacitor, and then soldered the output of the resistor to the positive input of the speaker. The black lead was soldered to the negative of the speaker. With a jumper across the capacitor, my Fluke 87 measured 7.8 ohms. Here's the problem.

When I plugged in the speaker and turned on the radio, the channel went dead. No sound out of the speaker. Tried the reboot, tried factory default, tried disconnect battery. Nothing worked.

Took it to the dealer. They found an ACM B1AO4:11 AND 12 Fault code on speaker 4. Tech cleared the codes and the speaker started working. He told me if the module detects an open or a short it disables the channel to protect it.

I know I didn't fault anything to ground as all I did was join the connectors. But, one though is that a capacitor in series could show up as an open circuit on some internal scan. I am not afraid to try it again without the capacitor as don't want to go back to the dealer.

So, I can't recommend what you should, only that if I had to do again I would install the series resistor, but not the series capacitor. Of all the posts on the B&O dash speaker forum, no one mentioned whether they used the capacitor, or Not to use it. The ACM supplies the signals to the center dash and the rear pillar speakers. So if you are upgrading them use caution.

Did the dealer charge a $300 diagnostic fee?

 

[haze10]

I took it in for the blinker recall, and asked that the radio be fixed under warranty, having put back the original OEM speaker. Didn't provide the details of what I did. Apparently, the blinker fix was through the OBD2 connector, and they just cleared the ACM codes. After that the speaker started to work and I guess since they didn't have to do any additional investigation it was a non issue.

I did disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, but that did NOT reset the ACM. Are you sure that would work. Seems usually when a code sets it doesn't clear just by disconnecting the battery. Thinking the ACM module is more EPROM than volatile memory, but don't know.

If installing the Infinity speaker, do you think it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery first and only restore after the installation. Assuming the radio can't do any circuit checking without battery power.

 

[colinl]

I took it in for the blinker recall, and asked that the radio be fixed under warranty, having put back the original OEM speaker. Didn't provide the details of what I did. Apparently, the blinker fix was through the OBD2 connector, and they just cleared the ACM codes. After that the speaker started to work and I guess since they didn't have to do any additional investigation it was a non issue.

I did disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, but that did NOT reset the ACM. Are you sure that would work. Seems usually when a code sets it doesn't clear just by disconnecting the battery. Thinking the ACM module is more EPROM than volatile memory, but don't know.

If installing the Infinity speaker, do you think it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery first and only restore after the installation. Assuming the radio can't do any circuit checking without battery power.

The truck does get reflashed during the recall and this would fix your issue, and it would wipe anything a person did related to an engine tune (like Livernois or Cobb) and anything tweaked with Forscan like disabling the horn double honk when the key leaves the truck while running.

Disconnecting the battery is a good idea any time you work on anything electrical, but I'll be honest and I usually don't do that, just pull the fuse for the amp battery connection out of habit. definitely some exposure on the center and rear speakers, shorting out could have happened to anyone.

 

[wb5oxq]

Don't know if anyone else has experienced this. After reading all the forums here about upgrading the center dash speaker I purchased the Infinity Reference 3-1/2" 2-way REF-3032CFX. Since it is 4 ohms, I also bought the 4 ohm 50 watt resistor to add in series. The speaker came with a filtering capacitor to add in series. So I removed the OEM speaker, desoldered the connector, and ascertained the white lead was positive. I series the white positive lead to the resistor, series the output of the resistor to the capacitor, and then soldered the output of the resistor to the positive input of the speaker. The black lead was soldered to the negative of the speaker. With a jumper across the capacitor, my Fluke 87 measured 7.8 ohms. Here's the problem.

When I plugged in the speaker and turned on the radio, the channel went dead. No sound out of the speaker. Tried the reboot, tried factory default, tried disconnect battery. Nothing worked.

Took it to the dealer. They found an ACM B1AO4:11 AND 12 Fault code on speaker 4. Tech cleared the codes and the speaker started working. He told me if the module detects an open or a short it disables the channel to protect it.

I know I didn't fault anything to ground as all I did was join the connectors. But, one though is that a capacitor in series could show up as an open circuit on some internal scan. I am not afraid to try it again without the capacitor as don't want to go back to the dealer.

So, I can't recommend what you should, only that if I had to do again I would install the series resistor, but not the series capacitor. Of all the posts on the B&O dash speaker forum, no one mentioned whether they used the capacitor, or Not to use it. The ACM supplies the signals to the center dash and the rear pillar speakers. So if you are upgrading them use caution.

I used a 8 ohm Dayton, no resistor or capacitor needed. Sounds worlds better. More stereo sound. Much better vocals.

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