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thescher

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I don’t think the under seat storage is going to work for subwoofer placement. I doubt it’s built to handle that. If you wanted to use it, you would likely have to reinforce it more than is practical. At that point you might as well build a sub box around those dimensions and replace the entire piece with an integrated sub. Which is actually not a bad idea. But quite involved.
Yep I am pulling the whole plastic cargo piece out & building a custom box with 2- 10" either JL Audio or Memphis Mojos. Just have to make sure you support the bench seat with the box when it id in the down position & port to the front!!
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BootXL76

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Went to the Pittsburgh Auto Show & got a look at the Maverick & the storage area below the rear seat. It's at ~ 12" deep ~18"W X ~13"L. There are 2 compartments (if you have the Eco-Boost - 1 for the Hybrid due to the second battery on the passenger side) & a hump for the drive shaft. I was thinking how deep of a sub I good get in there. Looking at the JL Audio 10TW3-D8 Shallow series woofers. My install tech said why don't we just take the cargo compartment out & build a custom box. I'm putting 2 of those woofers in a custom box with at least a 600 watt sub amp. Screw those self powered skinny little subs. We'll remove the factory amp & put a 4 channel in for the 6 cab full range speaker which we'll upgrade. I wanted the Lariat Lux package for the B & O but for minimal$$ I can build a better system.
There’s threads where they’ve done just that if you want examples (removed the storage bins and built a custom box)…. The self powered skinny subs are underwhelming (but more than enough for some, maybe most), but it’s possible (difficult but possible) to fit a custom box with 2 10s behind the seat
 

zakstang

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I did my install this weekend. Your assessment of it just being the added sub and amp is pretty spot on. I took the door speakers out and replaced them. They looked like the same speakers in non B&O systems which is disappointing. I was going to keep the factory tweeters in use but now I'm leaning on replacing those too.

I placed these in the doors and use the tweeters as "image tweeters" which I placed in the window sail to work with the factory tweeters.
tweeter-driver.jpg


tweeter-passenger.jpg


https://www.cdtaudio.com/main_series/hd/hd65s262.php

I bought this 6.5" subwoofer and made a ported box that fits into the storage bin underneath back seat. I am very impressed with how this sounds tbh.

https://www.ctsounds.com/collections/meso-series-subs/products/meso-6-5

I used the JL loc 22 for my signal
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-CG6529DYmSp/p_13698413/JL-Audio-LoC-22.html?XVINQ=BD1&XVVER=PPP&awcr=76965828825199&awdv=c&awkw=jl loc 22&awmt=b&awnw=s&awat=&awug=73963&msclkid=8e3db220bc891e173847d02ad530fea2

I went with this amp but I think I wish I went with Tara amp instead but it does sound good. Just does not have a bass nob so I can adjust the bass on the fly. Seems to put out nice clean sound and no issues with stock battery/alternator handling this.

amp.jpg


https://soundqubed.com/product/multichannel-full-range-amp/

and the biggest gamble but so far so good is this cheap Brazilian DSP that has an app for my iphone and connects bluetooth. So far very impressed with this thing. It is cheaply made, but it works!
dsp.jpg



These are the tweeters I am going to replace the stock ones with and hopefully get a cleaner sound.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ccmyjr87mQi/p_108K753T/Infinity-Kappa-753T.html

Overall I am very happy with how this sounds, but still have to try and dial it all in.

I edited to update with pics!
Would you share the specs on the box you built for this sub? pondering doin the same thing as you and trying a 6.5" sub....thanks!!!!
 

JaxMav

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Would you share the specs on the box you built for this sub? pondering doin the same thing as you and trying a 6.5" sub....thanks!!!!
I actually switched it up as I found a shallow 10” pioneer that would work in a sealed box in the same spot. The 6.5” sounds really good, but had difficulty hitting the really low lower range.

PIONEER TS-A2500LS4 1200 Watt 10"" Shallow Mount 4 Ohm SVC Subwoofer https://a.co/d/becn2lb

I will see if I can find the specs for the boxes for both 6.5 and the 10”. It’s been a while and will respond once I get them. I used the app. Speakerboxlite. It costs money to access the projects but was worth the month subscription for the project
 

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JaxMav

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Would you share the specs on the box you built for this sub? pondering doin the same thing as you and trying a 6.5" sub....thanks!!!!
Ok for the 10” sub which will work with 6.5” also here are the specs

17.75 length x 8.75 wide x 6.75 depth

Oh I forgot to add that I slightly went wider where the 10” sub drops in to accommodate the size. So it flares out near the middle and I router to round it around that area. It flares out to 10”.
 
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zakstang

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Ok for the 10” sub which will work with 6.5” also here are the specs

17.75 length x 8.75 wide x 6.75 depth

Oh I forgot to add that I slightly went wider where the 10” sub drops in to accommodate the size. So it flares out near the middle and I router to round it around that area. It flares out to 10”.
Thanks!!! I appreciate it!
 

thescher

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As for a subwoofer behind your seats.... I think too many people are figuring if they can physically fit a subwoofer behind the seat, bam ! Its all good. But its really not. Whether the subwoofer itself will fit behind the seat really means nothing to good sound. All subwoofers require a certain, specific amount of cubic footage in air space, to operate properly. Sealed requires less space, but I personally hate sealed enclosures. A strong little 6 1/2" or 8" sub doesn't need a lot of airspace, but Id really have to be inside of a maverick measuring the space available, or even making a cardboard mockup to see exactly how many cubes I had to play with.
Too many guys go at this with a, "that should be close enough" kind of attitude, and in the end, those systems always sound like cr@p. I've been around this block enough times to know, the design and airspace of a subwoofer enclosure are totally critical !
I think I will end up designing and building a subwoofer box which will be totally portable, and will normally sit on the floor behind the front passenger seat (my GF is short, so their will normally be a lot of space there ;) ) But it will be possible to sit it on top of the rear seat for 4 passengers, or even, just throw it under my roll up hard cover in the bed, if I needed space for 5 passengers (but for myself, this will be exceedingly rare)
Building it this way, I can make it exactly the optimum air space for a couple 8"s... or maybe a single 10"...

I am totally confident I can make the stereo system in the Maverick which sounds phenomenal :) Heck, if it were only "as good" as the system in my Prius, it will be awesome. But I've learned a few things about these little compact systems, and now, have found out about some really cool new gear {the Kicker Keys Amps}. I really think I can do it even better this time ;)
I have spoken to an Addison rep that knew of a shop in Texas that took out the plastic storage bins & installed 2 separate 8” sub boxes under the seat. A single box would be ideal but the damn drive shaft hump is in the way. No way to notch out a sub box because of sound wave interruption for the port. It wont sound correct. I think they got 2 - 1.25 sq.ft boxes under there. The seat folds down on them. Forward firing speakers & port on the side. That’s what I’m looking to do or remove the back seat completely & try & make a seat out of the box. Not sure - haven’t taken delivery of the truck yet so I wont know till we look at it. Looking at running CT Sounds, DD or Memphis 8”s & wiring them at 8ohms. Already got a DS18 8000 amp that will operate at about 1750 watts in 8 ohms. Divided by the 2 drivers that are 800 watt RMS everything should be matched well. And if I don’t like it, I can always wire them at 4ohms & turn it down!!!! I‘ve always wanted to hear subs at 8ohms. I think it will be very tight, clean & sonically amazing!!!! I want to try & listen to the control that you get at 8ohms everyone talks about.
 

JG307

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If the B&O sound doesn't cut it for you check out PAC's AP4-FD31. It allows for seamless integration of aftermarket amplifiers.
For $400, wowsa. What's the benefit of using this instead of just adding another amp to the existing one?
 

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For $400, wowsa. What's the benefit of using this instead of just adding another amp to the existing one?
Full 6 (Front + Rear + 2 sub) channel output including Toslink and some EQ control. Although at least on paper Axxess and mObridge's alternatives are more fully featured for about the same price point. More channels, full DSP, etc.
 
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F-050

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Thanks for posting. I have a question regarding the B&O system:
  • Do the primary doors get additional amplification over the stock system, or is the additional amplification only for the subwoofer.
  • Does the B&O system provide any additional tone control over stock, which I assume is Bass/Mid/High?
Same 3 eq. Sub gives a little more bottom. It gets loud without going fuzzy, but I want quality over quantity. As much as I rock, I always listen to classical when comparing stereos. There's clear high , lows to use as a benchmark
 

Gullzway

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The self powered skinny subs are underwhelming (but more than enough for some, maybe most), but it’s possible (difficult but possible) to fit a custom box with 2 10s behind the seat
That's what I thought until I put this Kicker hideaway in a few days ago. More than enough Bass for me, and I keep the control dial under 1/2. This is coming from my last truck with two 10" subs in a custom box and 500w amp.

Ford Maverick B&O amp and subwoofer behind passenger rear seat [clear pic] original_f54a2f19-7c41-405e-aaf4-27a081a81f24_PXL_20230303_170658622
 

triangulumhalohydra

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That's what I thought until I put this Kicker hideaway in a few days ago. More than enough Bass for me, and I keep the control dial under 1/2. This is coming from my last truck with two 10" subs in a custom box and 500w amp.

original_f54a2f19-7c41-405e-aaf4-27a081a81f24_PXL_20230303_170658622.jpg
Hey, I'm thinking about adding this exact sub to my lariat lux with the B&O, but a little nervous about install and have a bunch of questions. Would you mind posting how you ran the wires? Did you tap into the existing sub lines? How did you run power and the control dial? Is it setup to turn on via a 12v hot/cold, or always connected and times out without signal? Looks great and think it will help me get the stereo right where I want it (its great, just no bass!). Also considering upgrading the center speaker in the front since it looks cheap and easy - did you do that?

Thank you for any insight and congrats on the sub!
 

richman555

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I just wanted to comment I appreciate the ingenuity in this thread. The Maverick might start out as a "cheap" truck but really all of the additions make into something special.
 

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Hey, I'm thinking about adding this exact sub to my lariat lux with the B&O, but a little nervous about install and have a bunch of questions. Would you mind posting how you ran the wires? Did you tap into the existing sub lines? How did you run power and the control dial? Is it setup to turn on via a 12v hot/cold, or always connected and times out without signal? Looks great and think it will help me get the stereo right where I want it (its great, just no bass!). Also considering upgrading the center speaker in the front since it looks cheap and easy - did you do that?

Thank you for any insight and congrats on the sub!
Fairly easy, especially on the hybrid. Power to the battery under the rear seat. Tapped into the B&O sub speaker wires. Then ran the Bass control wire along the passenger side, tucking under the trim, and 3m mounted under the console.

At first I set it to power on through the speaker wires. Not good, as is it comes on when you open/close the doors and who knows when else, due to how the infotainment center power cycles a lot. So today I ran a remote wire to my fuse panel in the passenger footwell, I just tied into my dash cam wiring(ACC Fuse 2.)

I did install a center speaker last night, because I had some JBL 3022's that I didn't put in my Mustang.

The kicker is on sale for $254, I got an Open Box,unused, at Bestbuy for $165.

Ford Maverick B&O amp and subwoofer behind passenger rear seat [clear pic] PXL_20230302_161649925
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