Heiserton

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**EDIT/UPDATE**

I made a mistake thinking that the 12v solar controller would work (it doesn't). I'm installing a Victron DC to DC (B2B) isolated charger tomorrow. I had a few solar controllers laying around, that's why I went with that first.

Goal:
Be able to power things (fridge, tools, other electronics) off of an auxiliary battery while being able to charge that battery from the vehicles power WITHOUT draining the starter battery. Basically move all load onto the aux battery that will have a longer life span, more power and be far lighter than a standard battery.

Parts:
Ampeak 1000w Inverter (comes with wires)
Terminal Boots (encouraged but not necessary)
12v Cig Plug (Could use something different)
14awg Wire
PowerQueen 50ah LiFePO4 Battery
Terminal Connectors
Renogy Charge Controller Updated Part :Victron Orion 12v to 12v B2B Charger (Isolated/Bluetooth)
Battery Monitor (optional)
Nilight Panel (to be installed in the bed later)
Flat Swivel 3 Prong Plugs

*NOTE* I printed the battery tray, as well as the mounting bracket for the back of the inverter. I also used 3M dual lock for mounting the battery tray to the under-seat storage and the inverter tray to the back wall behind the seat. I may print these for sale if enough people are interested.


IMG_5895.jpeg


First you'll want to cut the female end off of the Noco 12v plug cable. Next, terminate each end with the appropriate sized terminal connectors, and heat shrink the connection after its made. Connect those to the solar charge controller on the panel posts, not the battery posts. You'll want to also make a positive and negative cable (maybe 2-3ft, give your self some room for cable routing) that you can run from the charge controller battery posts to the auxiliary battery terminal posts.
IMG_5896.jpeg

I mounted my aux battery in the space under the drivers rear seat, next to the Weboost amplifier I installed. It fits pretty well, and you could probably fit a 100ah battery there if you wanted to. Use 3M dual lock to mount the inverter to the top of the battery (or wherever you want really).
IMG_5897.jpeg

I ran the cables up to the 12v plug in the front. The original idea was to use the rear plug, but I didn't realize it was a constant hot. I wanted a visual aid of seeing that the battery was still plugged in so I didn't leave it plugged in when I wasn't in the vehicle. So, I ran it up front. Ran the wires under the rear seat trim, under the weather mat, then up and under the passenger side of the center console. All the way up under the dash and over the top of the center console trim, then back towards the plug.
IMG_5901.JPG

The inverter didn't really have any solid way of mounting behind the seat. I remove the little black plastic feet that were mounted to it, and printed a new base to screw the metal mounting rails to. The back side of the mounting panel I made has 3M dual lock on it, I purposely made it a little oversized so that I could get as much contact between the adhesive side of the 3M and the back wall of the truck as possible. I might modify this in the future, but its holding very solid.
IMG_5904.jpeg
IMG_5905.jpeg

Connect the supplied cables to the inverter, then run them under the bottom of the back seat and into the storage tray. Make sure you create a ground wire to hook to the inverter also. You can use on of the two grounds on either side of the cab, they're easy to spot.
IMG_5907.jpeg
*Dont plug in the 12v cig male end yet* The positive and negative cables attached to the charge controller should be installed on top of the inverter cables then onto the battery terminals. The terminals are M6 bolts, so everything should fit just fine. Make sure to slide the terminal cables through the post covers if you're going to use them. Just a bit of security. Make sure all connections are secure and no cables are being pinched or are in bad locations for rubbing and what not.
IMG_5908.jpeg

Plug in the 12v male connector, then set your battery type to Li on the charge controller. You should be good to go now! I'm working on installing a remote switch for the inverter (the one from Ampeak is obtrusive and ugly), as well as finding a new 12v male end that has a single switch/light so that I don't have to unplug it. Hopefully this will give someone ideas or inspire them to do something cool with their vehicle. Any questions, just ask!

 
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respi133

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Great write up thank you for posting in such detail, an aux battery is a great addition to a truck like the Maverick
 
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Captain Pork chop

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I use a dual 12 v adapter. I have a jumper pack plugged in. Does the same thing. I have a 400 w inverter if needed I can plug that in also
 

MakinDoForNow

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I understood that the 12v cigarette style power points were on a 10 amp fuse and presumably wires were sized for that and that the "smokers pkg" up sized the wire and had a cigarette lighter plug on a 20 amp fuse. (Verify this???)
 
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Heiserton

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I understood that the 12v cigarette style power points were on a 10 amp fuse and presumably wires were sized for that and that the "smokers pkg" up sized the wire and had a cigarette lighter plug on a 20 amp fuse. (Verify this???)
Smokers package? No clue. I have this plugged into a 10a (fused) 12v brick thingy.
 


redskins5

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Goal: Be able to power things (fridge, tools, other electronics) off of an auxiliary battery while being able to charge that battery from the vehicles power WITHOUT draining the starter battery. Basically move all load onto the aux battery that will have a longer life span, more power and be far lighter than a standard battery.

Parts:
Ampeak 1000w Inverter (comes with wires)
Terminal Boots (encouraged but not necessary)
12v Cig Plug (Could use something different)
14awg Wire
PowerQueen 50ah LiFePO4 Battery
Terminal Connectors
Renogy Charge Controller
Battery Monitor (optional)
Nilight Panel (to be installed in the bed later)
Flat Swivel 3 Prong Plugs

*NOTE* I printed the battery tray, as well as the mounting bracket for the back of the inverter. I also used 3M dual lock for mounting the battery tray to the under-seat storage and the inverter tray to the back wall behind the seat. I may print these for sale if enough people are interested.


IMG_5895.jpeg


First you'll want to cut the female end off of the Noco 12v plug cable. Next, terminate each end with the appropriate sized terminal connectors, and heat shrink the connection after its made. Connect those to the solar charge controller on the panel posts, not the battery posts. You'll want to also make a positive and negative cable (maybe 2-3ft, give your self some room for cable routing) that you can run from the charge controller battery posts to the auxiliary battery terminal posts.
IMG_5896.jpeg

I mounted my aux battery in the space under the drivers rear seat, next to the Weboost amplifier I installed. It fits pretty well, and you could probably fit a 100ah battery there if you wanted to. Use 3M dual lock to mount the inverter to the top of the battery (or wherever you want really).
IMG_5897.jpeg

I ran the cables up to the 12v plug in the front. The original idea was to use the rear plug, but I didn't realize it was a constant hot. I wanted a visual aid of seeing that the battery was still plugged in so I didn't leave it plugged in when I wasn't in the vehicle. So, I ran it up front. Ran the wires under the rear seat trim, under the weather mat, then up and under the passenger side of the center console. All the way up under the dash and over the top of the center console trim, then back towards the plug.
IMG_5901.JPG

The inverter didn't really have any solid way of mounting behind the seat. I remove the little black plastic feet that were mounted to it, and printed a new base to screw the metal mounting rails to. The back side of the mounting panel I made has 3M dual lock on it, I purposely made it a little oversized so that I could get as much contact between the adhesive side of the 3M and the back wall of the truck as possible. I might modify this in the future, but its holding very solid.
IMG_5904.jpeg
IMG_5905.jpeg

Connect the supplied cables to the inverter, then run them under the bottom of the back seat and into the storage tray. Make sure you create a ground wire to hook to the inverter also. You can use on of the two grounds on either side of the cab, they're easy to spot.
IMG_5907.jpeg
*Dont plug in the 12v cig male end yet* The positive and negative cables attached to the charge controller should be installed on top of the inverter cables then onto the battery terminals. The terminals are M6 bolts, so everything should fit just fine. Make sure to slide the terminal cables through the post covers if you're going to use them. Just a bit of security. Make sure all connections are secure and no cables are being pinched or are in bad locations for rubbing and what not.
IMG_5908.jpeg

Plug in the 12v male connector, then set your battery type to Li on the charge controller. You should be good to go now! I'm working on installing a remote switch for the inverter (the one from Ampeak is obtrusive and ugly), as well as finding a new 12v male end that has a single switch/light so that I don't have to unplug it. Hopefully this will give someone ideas or inspire them to do something cool with their vehicle. Any questions, just ask!
Just buy you and F150 hybrid with the 7200watt generator in it.
 

MakinDoForNow

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Smokers package? No clue. I have this plugged into a 10a (fused) 12v brick thingy.
See thread
12-volt cigarette lighter outlet?

Smokers option is a dealer add-on for $70 (don't know if labor included but should be). Someone there says they think power points have 20amp and smoker's power point has 30amp fuses. Need to check where smokers option is wired???
 

redskins5

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"Just buy a $60,000 truck instead of a $30,000 truck!"
2021 ford f150 XLT hybrid velocity blue luxery package with 7200watt generator $48900.00 nothing down, no trade in.
I have also ordered the MAvrick Hybrid.
 

Trucklet

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I have been planning to add a bed inverter as soon as my truck finally arrives, but 2 comments/questions about yours:

Firstly, at that price point that has to be a modified since wave inverter so be cognizant of what types of things you plug into it or they won't be happy.

Secondly, I was planning on stuffing the whole thing in the "storage cubby" (vented) and wiring to the 12V DIY flexbed pigtails. I thought the consensus was that they shut off 30 minutes after ignition is cut, and re-energize if door is opened? If those pigtails are truly always hot 24/7 that's a bummer for nearly any project.
 
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Heiserton

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I have been planning to add a bed inverter as soon as my truck finally arrives, but 2 comments/questions about yours:

Firstly, at that price point that has to be a modified since wave inverter so be cognizant of what types of things you plug into it or they won't be happy.

Secondly, I was planning on stuffing the whole thing in the "storage cubby" (vented) and wiring to the 12V DIY flexbed pigtails. I thought the consensus was that they shut off 30 minutes after ignition is cut, and re-energize if door is opened? If those pigtails are truly always hot 24/7 that's a bummer for nearly any project.
I actually didn’t notice that it was a modified inverter at first, but I don’t mind, it’s an easy swap out and I won’t be powering any sensitive electronics.

I didn’t use the pig tails, but you could always use the one from the bed and run wires back into the cab through the pass through. Those aren’t constant hots, but I’m pretty sure the cig 12v’s are. I’ll have to figure out a way to verify more thoroughly whether or not they have a auto off timer on them or something.
If you use a lithium or LiFePO4 battery, you don’t need to worry about venting at all since they don’t off-gas and are sealed, same with sealed AGM. I went LiFePO4 because they have a significantly longer lifespan/higher cycle count, weight significantly less than even lithium batteries, and pack more potential energy in an equivalent footprint (typically).
 
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Heiserton

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See thread
12-volt cigarette lighter outlet?

Smokers option is a dealer add-on for $70 (don't know if labor included but should be). Someone there says they think power points have 20amp and smoker's power point has 30amp fuses. Need to check where smokers option is wired???
Ah ok. That would make sense I guess, but 30a for a cigarette is a bit wild lol. I didn’t order this truck, I just bought a canceled order, so I didn’t get to make any of the choices lol.
 

Trucklet

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If you use a lithium or LiFePO4 battery, you don’t need to worry about venting at all since they don’t off-gas and are sealed, same with sealed AGM.
Oh, LiPePO4 is definitely the way to go and yeah they don't out-gas. I meant venting to prevent heat buildup under decently heavy and/or prolonged inverter usage. You're fine behind the seat but if I do manage to stuff all this inside the bed cubby it'll be toasty running circular saws etc.

You probably already know, but LiFePO4 batteries will fail if charged below freezing. Most solar charge controllers come with provisions for a temp sensor that you can slap on the battery. You are actually at an advantage to me there, b/c having your battery in the cab means that even in winter you can top-off once your climate control gets the cabin heated. Technically if you can trust that your truck is only on when the climate control is running, you may not even need the temp sensor.
 
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Heiserton

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Oh, LiPePO4 is definitely the way to go and yeah they don't out-gas. I meant venting to prevent heat buildup under decently heavy and/or prolonged inverter usage. You're fine behind the seat but if I do manage to stuff all this inside the bed cubby it'll be toasty running circular saws etc.

You probably already know, but LiFePO4 batteries will fail if charged below freezing. Most solar charge controllers come with provisions for a temp sensor that you can slap on the battery. You are actually at an advantage to me there, b/c having your battery in the cab means that even in winter you can top-off once your climate control gets the cabin heated. Technically if you can trust that your truck is only on when the climate control is running, you may not even need the temp sensor.
Ahhhh, I misunderstood. Yea heat build up could be an issue.

As for the freeze fail issue, you could always find a battery with an internal heater. Lots of LiFePo4 batteries have them, they just cost a bit more.
 

Moby

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Looks like a very nice set up . I am wondering did you also get the factory 400 W ? I have read on this form that the factory one gets a higher output alternator . I was thinking coupling this with the 400w would be perfect .

 

 
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