affordable tow hitch alternative?

[Maverickent]

I recently responded to someone who asked about a cheaper, easier way to add a tow hitch. I can't find that thread, but the gist of it was: Could we bolt an affordable receiver onto the bottom of the bumper bar, or crash bar if you prefer.
https://www.harborfreight.com/5000-...e=go&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=shortener

I had several questions about that option, so I got under it today to get some answers:
Is the crash bar accessible enough to run bolts through it? Yes! It would be quite easy to drill up through it and bolt it on.
Does the geometry of the crash bar allow for the receiver to be positioned behind that blank/cut-out piece in the plastic bumper skin? Yes! it would line up perfectly to look like a factory option! Also removing that blank looks straight forward and should look clean.
Is the crash bar constructed with the same specs as the factory tow hitch? I don't know. But after looking at it closely, my guess is that the factory tow hitch is the exact same piece, with a receiver welded onto it.

I took some measurements of the crash bar too. It measures 2"X3.25". I invite anyone who has a factory tow hitch to take some measurements and pics of the holes in your hitch, to show the thickness/gauge of the steel. If anyone else has knowledge of this, your advice will be appreciated.

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[Johnkn]

One does not drill through the main beam of a receiver hitch.

The factory receiver is essentially the factory crash bar with the receiver portion (correctly) welded on.

That $30 Harbor Freight POS is designed to bolt to the bottom center of a traditional truck rear number. I would not even use use it for that application.

.

 

[uga]

 

[Maverickent]

One does not drill through the main beam of a receiver hitch.

The factory receiver is essentially the factory crash bar with the receiver portion (correctly) welded on.

That $30 Harbor Freight POS is designed to bolt to the bottom center of a traditional truck rear number. I would not even use use it for that application.

.

thanks for the input

 

[Maverickent]

This was highly informative! I like the idea of using the U bolts to secure the receiver. I'm sure it can be accomplished without removing the crash bar.

 

[NewcMaverick]

The Curtis hitches and others use factory bolt locations and 4 different points in the frame. These look like they put a lot of pressure on a small area. Would be perfect for bike racks, but I'm not sure I would trust much else with it.

 

[pxpaulx]

The Curtis hitches and others use factory bolt locations and 4 different points in the frame. These look like they put a lot of pressure on a small area. Would be perfect for bike racks, but I'm not sure I would trust much else with it.

Not all bike racks are created equal. My Saris rack weighs 100lbs on its own - plus ebikes doubles that weight (and our ebikes are on the lighter side). I would NOT trust this with anything more than a light weight rack, road bikes or the lightest of MTBs.

 

[oljackfrost]

How can you be more affordable than $100 from the factory when you order your Maverick?

 

[Dad]

I recently responded to someone who asked about a cheaper, easier way to add a tow hitch. I can't find that thread, but the gist of it was: Could we bolt an affordable receiver onto the bottom of the bumper bar, or crash bar if you prefer.
https://www.harborfreight.com/5000-...e=go&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=shortener

I had several questions about that option, so I got under it today to get some answers:
Is the crash bar accessible enough to run bolts through it? Yes! It would be quite easy to drill up through it and bolt it on.
Does the geometry of the crash bar allow for the receiver to be positioned behind that blank/cut-out piece in the plastic bumper skin? Yes! it would line up perfectly to look like a factory option! Also removing that blank looks straight forward and should look clean.
Is the crash bar constructed with the same specs as the factory tow hitch? I don't know. But after looking at it closely, my guess is that the factory tow hitch is the exact same piece, with a receiver welded onto it.

I took some measurements of the crash bar too. It measures 2"X3.25". I invite anyone who has a factory tow hitch to take some measurements and pics of the holes in your hitch, to show the thickness/gauge of the steel. If anyone else has knowledge of this, your advice will be appreciated.

Check out the products at etrailer.com. I've purchased a couple of hitches from them. Affordable, durable, and diy installation. They have very good how to install videos, as well.
https://www.etrailer.com/popular/2022/Ford/Maverick

 

[OleFordGuy]

Post #13 at this thread talks about welding one onto existing crash bar. I remember seeing a post showing bumper off and I think a guy and his son welded a bolt on hitch from Curt I think, looked reasonable but I can’t find that thread
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/trailer-hitch-installation.21536/
Good Luck to all

 

[Dechion]

I know folks are always looking to save money, me included. I wouldn't cut corners here though. A Google search shows properly made bolt on hitch assemblies for the Maverick in the $200-$300 range.

The bolt-on from Harbor Freight is $32, figure maybe $50 once you get some hardware for it.

I wouldn't put that bolt on onto anything except maybe my riding lawnmower and sure wouldn't drill into my bumper and risk compromising it in a crash just to save a few bucks.

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